Removing cap on trailer bearings

[KMixson]

When you go back together with it, don't forget to pre-load the bearings. Here's how if this is your first time installing axle bearings.

1. Tighten castle nut finger tight.
2. Tighten nut about another 1/4 turn.
3. Rotate hub/wheel about a dozen times.
4. If the hub loosens you will have to repeat from step 1. If not go to step 5.
5. Loosen nut.
6. Tighten nut finger tight.
7. Loosen nut just until you can install cotter pin into the hole in the spindle.
8. Install cotter pin into nut/spindle.
9. Check that the wheel turns freely and there is no binding or that it is not sloppy loose.

 

[The10Man]

So this evening I thought I was going to finish up this project, or at least this side of the trailer.

I reviewed the spindle and made sure it was clean and didn't have any abrasions. Then I unpackaged the the hub kit read the instructions and placed the hub on the spindle. When I went to slide the hub onto the spindle it only went about an inch deep. I took it off and noticed the grease was pretty thick so I pressed my finger through it just to make sure it's wasn't too thick to penetrate and there weren't any obstructions, no issue there.

Next I out the hub back on the spindle and it was the same thing , it would go very deep. I looked at the back of the hub and it appears that there is a race or something that constricts the inner diameter enough so that the spindle can't go there the hub.

Before I bought the hub assembly I measured the outside diameter of the hub and it was about 1 inch. When I went to the store I bought he kit that was 1 inch and even marched up my old inner bearing on the chart to ensure I was getting the right size.

I'm beginning to think that I didn't measure this correctly or think it through all the way and got the wrong size. The kit I got says the inner bearing is 1 inch, the outer bearing is 1 inch, and the seal size is 1.25 inches.

Maybe I should have gotten the kit where the inner and kit bearings are 1 1/16 inch. Hopefully I can take back the hub kit I got and exchange it for the larger size.

 

[Johnny]

take the old hub with you - ask the salesman to ensure it matches
so you won't have to make a 3rd trip.
they have micrometers at the sales desk just for issues such as this.

I'm just hoping you do not have a metric axle and hubs (and yes, they do make them).

 

[KMixson]

It looks from the picture that you have a 1" axle with a 1 1/4" seal. As you slip on the hub you have to make sure the inner race on the inner bearing is square with the axle. You may have to wobble the hub in order for the inner race to line up square with the axle. You can use the outer bearings inner race to make sure there are no burrs or abrasions on the axle shaft preventing you from sliding in on.

 

[New River Rat]

My favorite hammer ever!

True Value
https://www.truevalue.com/product/H...lling-Hammer-3-Lb-/pc/5/c/77/sc/731/79261.uts




When doing one hub, might as well get both......

 

[The10Man]

I was out of town last weekend and didn't get a chance to work on the trailer. This week I got the 1 1/16 size and it fit perfectly.

KMixson I kept rereading your steps you provided as I was working on it.

As I was knocking the dust cap on I pinched my finger which was not fun, but all in all it was relatively simple once I had the right size.

Now I'm going to take it off the jack and drive it around the block a few times to make sure everything is good before I haul it to the boat ramp.

 

[driz]

So this evening I thought I was going to finish up this project, or at least this side of the trailer.

I reviewed the spindle and made sure it was clean and didn't have any abrasions. Then I unpackaged the the hub kit read the instructions and placed the hub on the spindle. When I went to slide the hub onto the spindle it only went about an inch deep. I took it off and noticed the grease was pretty thick so I pressed my finger through it just to make sure it's wasn't too thick to penetrate and there weren't any obstructions, no issue there.

Next I out the hub back on the spindle and it was the same thing , it would go very deep. I looked at the back of the hub and it appears that there is a race or something that constricts the inner diameter enough so that the spindle can't go there the hub.

Before I bought the hub assembly I measured the outside diameter of the hub and it was about 1 inch. When I went to the store I bought he kit that was 1 inch and even marched up my old inner bearing on the chart to ensure I was getting the right size.

I'm beginning to think that I didn't measure this correctly or think it through all the way and got the wrong size. The kit I got says the inner bearing is 1 inch, the outer bearing is 1 inch, and the seal size is 1.25 inches.

Maybe I should have gotten the kit where the inner and kit bearings are 1 1/16 inch. Hopefully I can take back the hub kit I got and exchange it for the larger size.

It might not help you now but you want to get one of these for your mechanical involvements down the road. They’re cheap and they work very very well. Hustling down to Harbor freight and get one of those electronic micrometers. They go on sale all the time for around $10 and once you start using that thing you’ll wonder why you never had one before. No they’re not made to be treated brutally but if you talk them away somewhere and leave them in their box they will last for years.
One other great feature is that you can switch back-and-forth between inch, fraction, metric sizing. That ability to set it on something and then wiggle the jaws back-and-forth Or switch between metric and US makes figuring these things out very easy. I swear I use mine almost every single day for some silly thing and I don’t have to go hunting for a tape measure figuring out which hash mark is closest ect. It’s a godsend for trying to figure out sizes and seals like you’re doing and you’ll find yourself using it constantly every time you pick up bolts nuts sizing add holes drillbits etc.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[eshaw]

I agree, a hub is a hub. I'd replace the whole thing with a good quality unit, especially after subjecting it to a lot of heat. It would probably be ok but why chance it? The only thing that distinguishes a marine hub from a regular hub is the bearing buddy that I'm aware of.

 

[vfourmax]

get the proper seal for the back side of the hubs and ensure they fit well.

the hub caps are pressure fit - gently ease them into position with a
block of wood and hammer. remove them the same way. tap-tap-tap.

One thing I have seen some seals that were purchased at "auto parts" types of store that although the seals fit and were the right diameter inside and outside were only single lip seals.
A double lip seal is what you want as the inner lip works to keep the grease in and the outer lip works to keep the dirt and more importantly when used on a boat trailer the water out of the hub and bearings.

Also since most modern vehicles now use sealed hubs which are replaced rather than serviced you do not see these as often any more but there is a tool made for removing the dust caps off the hubs and bearings. I have one that I have had for 40 years so I do not know whether local outlets still stock them but they are great for the job they are made to do which is remove the dust cap from the hubs.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I can't tell for sure but it looks like your lug nuts are on backwards.

 

[86tuning]

I can't tell for sure but it looks like your lug nuts are on backwards.

Looks to be the case! Good eye.

 

[WALI4VR]

have one that I have had for 40 years so I do not know whether local outlets still stock them but they are great for the job they are made to do which is remove the dust cap from the hubs.

Also used to install and remove wheel balancing weights.

'98 Lund Explorer w/ 50hp Merc 4c (Yamaha) carburetored NO torque motor

 

[WALI4VR]

You could just let a thief steal it - like they did mine!

Or they fell off like mine!

'98 Lund Explorer w/ 50hp Merc 4c (Yamaha) carburetored NO torque motor