Renovating a 2004 Tracker Pro175

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
gatorglenn said:
Well this is good. Mine next lol. How soon can you start [emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have way too many hours in this carpet and I'm still not done. I still have the 3 front lids to cover and install and install the front compartments and deck.

Can you tell me what switch operates the aerator attached to the live well? The rear aerator comes on but I can't get the tank mounted one to come on. It may be bad.

IMG_0374.JPG
 
When you turn the recirculating switch on either in auto are on position the center position is off then you have to pull out the nozzle that's either red or white in the top right-hand corner the pumps it's right behind it that will recirculate the water in it or flow the water out but it's all to do with the recirculating switch and not the fill switch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This switch turns the bilge on:

IMG_0380.JPG

The switch on the left turns the aerator on that is mounted on the transom. The right switch operates the lights. I don't know what the middle switch operates.
There is a second aerator mounted on the livewell. Does it run on the middle switch, or the switch on the left?
IMG_0381.JPG
 
OK the cluster of three that's on the right side of the console. The one in the middle should be your fill pump at the transom to the live well. The one switch to the left should be your aerator and you pull the valve that's inside the area aeration or pump out tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The switch on the right will also in manual mode just re-circulate the water in the live well. In auto mode it will area aided every three or four minutes for about a minute automatically


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If that switch does not turn the pump that is on the upper right side of the live well when you pull the valve in or out then your pump is probably bad but the switch our wire could be bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
gatorglenn said:
If that switch does not turn the pump that is on the upper right side of the live well when you pull the valve in or out then your pump is probably bad but the switch our wire could be bad
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OK, thanks for the help.
 
gatorglenn said:
[emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found the problem. There was power to and from the switch, but power wasn't getting to the pump. I disconnected the pump wires and ran them directly to the battery and the pump came on, so the pump was good. I traced the failure to the plug under the switches, its the plug that comes from the fuse block. For some reason it wasn't making good contact. I spread the male pin in the plug and that fixed the problem.

Thanks again for the help!
 
Glad it was something that easy which all these little problems with boats could be like that LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Probably overkill, but that's what I'm all about.

Installed 2 - 24 series Excide/Durastart batteries in parallel for starting and accessories.

Based on the specs, this gives me 12 volts with 140 ah (20 ah) and 850 cranking amps with 700 cold cranking amps. Not bad for less than $100 on sale.

IMG_0386.JPG

I hope to pick up 2 - 6 volt golf cart batteries after work. These will give me some good specs for the trolling motor: 230 (20 ah capacity) and about 448 mins discharge @ 25 amps. I plan to mount these in the bow and lose the 20' of 6 gauge trolling motor wire. This should make the TM run like a champ!
I plan to make the mount in this box. There is plenty of room if I wanted to go with 4 - 6 volt batteries later.
IMG_0270.JPG
 
Now that is a great idea! I may just have to steal this one from you LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've been working on the carpet, some minor upgrades and general boat maintenance.

Here's the new control panel I made. It has 2 quick connects. One for the wired trolling motor switch and the other for the trolling motor. It also has a switch for the outboard tilt and trim. I left room for a couple more switchs and connections for fish finder.
IMG_0404.JPG
IMG_0405.JPG
I'm in the process of making a dual 6 volt golf cart battery box. I'm visiting s sheet metal shop today to see if they can bend me some parts from stainless steel. More to come on this.
IMG_0408.JPG
Here's the front deck with the panel. It's just laying there because I was marking where to cut the hatch for the battery box.
IMG_0410.JPG
 
gatorglenn said:
Really coming together

It is going slow, probably because I want to be fishing.
Here's the start of the front battery box. It took me a week to track down a drop of sheet aluminum to make this. I'm hoping to finish it this evening.

IMG_0417.JPG
 
Battery box done! Now order a hatch and finish installing the remaining carpeted pieces.



IMG_0427.JPG

IMG_0432.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0421.JPG
    IMG_0421.JPG
    53.4 KB · Views: 794
Well, I touched almost everything on this boat at least once, except the bunk boards, which will be recovered shortly. As I wait on my R&R hatch lid, I got board so I made this simple tire carrier. It is high and tight, as in high off the road and tight to the frame without interference with the boat.
I fabbed this from some 4" x 1/4" angle iron I already had. Everything is bolt together and it can be placed almost anywhere on the frame.

IMG_0484.JPG
IMG_0454.JPG
 
Top