Replacing transom held by aluminum brackets

[Allieballieboo]

Hello! Replacing rotted out transom in a 1961 Lone Star Big Fisherman. Rotted transom came out just fine but we will need to finagle something to get it up in behind these brackets as the top length of transom is wider than bottom. Assume we have to remove one of these brackets that are riveted in. Question. What is best method to remove rivets and what is the best way to replace them?

 

[Allieballieboo]

Pictures

 

[Allieballieboo]

Or do we leave it all in and just bend the aluminum?

 

[LDUBS]

I recalled a discussion about removing rivets in a recent thread. Open the thread with the attached link and see post #25.

1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project

 

[airshot]

If you can reach them, rivets are easy to remove and replace with the correct tools. Another option is to drill and remove the rivets and replace with good quality SS screws and nuts with a good sealant. Some bending is fine as long as no sharp or excessive bending as aluminum is tempered and continual bending causes cracks.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

They are above the water line replacing them with SS bolts should be fine.

 

[Steph Boeker]

Hello! Replacing rotted out transom in a 1961 Lone Star Big Fisherman. Rotted transom came out just fine but we will need to finagle something to get it up in behind these brackets as the top length of transom is wider than bottom. Assume we have to remove one of these brackets that are riveted in. Question. What is best method to remove rivets and what is the best way to replace them?

I have a Lone*Star 14/54 w/ identical brackets. I took the port side bracket out by punching a dimple in the rivet and using a 1/16th drill bit 1st and an 1/8" drill bit next, ... , not through but just enough to separate the head from the pin. Then I replace the rivets w/ 4 1/8" rivets using a $50. impact driver from Harbor Freight. The whole job turned out fine. Only, now I have the boat painted w/ 4 alum. rivets that have no paint. Hehehehehehe

 

[hennessyktm]

Hello! Replacing rotted out transom in a 1961 Lone Star Big Fisherman. Rotted transom came out just fine but we will need to finagle something to get it up in behind these brackets as the top length of transom is wider than bottom. Assume we have to remove one of these brackets that are riveted in. Question. What is best method to remove rivets and what is the best way to replace them?

I just did this. I was intimidated at first, but researched a bit online and went for it.
I ordered the appropriate sized aluminum "brazier head" rivets off amazon. Might have to drill one out to make sure you get the right size before you order them.
Go to harbor freight and buy their cheap, $15 air hammer. It comes with a few different bits, one is a chisel bit. Saw the chisel part off. Drill the face/tip where the chisel used to be with a 1/2 bit to concave it.
Drill the heads off the rivets on your boat transom as described above by Steph.
When time to reinstall/rivet the brackets, slide the new rivet into the hole from the outside if the boat.
Hold a heavy piece of metal against the shaft of the rivet on the inside of the boat. I used a small mini sledge that I drilled a small concaved hole in. You might need someone else to do this if. Place the air hammer on the head of the rivet on the outside if the boat. Pull the trigger in bursts, checking on the progress as you go along. This process is called "bucking."
This was a very cheap, easy process. You'll likely have a bunch of rivets left over, as mine came in a 1 lb bag. You'll also have the ability to rebuck any leaky rivets you may find elsewhere on the boat as time passes.

 

[Acme54]

Hello! Replacing rotted out transom in a 1961 Lone Star Big Fisherman. Rotted transom came out just fine but we will need to finagle something to get it up in behind these brackets as the top length of transom is wider than bottom. Assume we have to remove one of these brackets that are riveted in. Question. What is best method to remove rivets and what is the best way to replace them?

I did my Lonestar Admiral 2 years ago and had the same issue. I wasn’t able to replicate the old transom shape exactly as it is too wide to get in without dismantling the entire back of the boat. I used a center punch to score each rivet and drilled out the rivets with a bit smaller than the original hole. I had to take out a bunch of rivets to get the splash rail and top corner aluminum pieces out of the way. Kinda of a rough job but I am a novice. I replaced the transom with Coosa board and a 1/4” aluminum plate and it is solid as a rock. I bought a cheap rivet gun as well. If you live near Chicago I’ll lend it to you. I have left over Coosa board.

 

[Steph Boeker]

I just did this. I was intimidated at first, but researched a bit online and went for it.
I ordered the appropriate sized aluminum "brazier head" rivets off amazon. Might have to drill one out to make sure you get the right size before you order them.
Go to harbor freight and buy their cheap, $15 air hammer. It comes with a few different bits, one is a chisel bit. Saw the chisel part off. Drill the face/tip where the chisel used to be with a 1/2 bit to concave it.
Drill the heads off the rivets on your boat transom as described above by Steph.
When time to reinstall/rivet the brackets, slide the new rivet into the hole from the outside if the boat.
Hold a heavy piece of metal against the shaft of the rivet on the inside of the boat. I used a small mini sledge that I drilled a small concaved hole in. You might need someone else to do this if. Place the air hammer on the head of the rivet on the outside if the boat. Pull the trigger in bursts, checking on the progress as you go along. This process is called "bucking."
This was a very cheap, easy process. You'll likely have a bunch of rivets left over, as mine came in a 1 lb bag. You'll also have the ability to rebuck any leaky rivets you may find elsewhere on the boat as time passes.

Bravo !! I need to hone my thinking skills. I usually improvise methods as I'd rather use items I have to save money, but, in this case I didn't think hard enough. I could have bought the cheaper air impact chisel and cut off the end , shaped it and did it like that for $15. & some rivets. I used the mini-mall but purchased the $50. impact and bought a special 1/8" rivet driver on Amazon.
Great job Hennessy !!

 

[thill]

I often use a sharp wood chisel to pop the heads off rivets. Lay it flat to the work and tap gently, lifting the head off. Or, I drill them out, if heavy, solid rivets. Most are 3/16", but some are 1/4" and a few are 1/8".

Putting them back, I use a harbor freight air chisel with an anvil that works for the rivets I use. There are several, so make sure they match.

 

[Tom Shafer]

Two people required - one using a cutting-disc on small hand grinder,
the other hold a wet sponge against the rivet heads (to protect the painted surface).

From the old-school book.....
That old tub had 1000 coats of painted graphics which was NOT to be re-painted.
The old transom board(s) had rotted, eons ago, and handy-andy had installed alum/angle over the rotted wood for strength, plus an old license-plate as the motor mount.
My scrap-yard provided several 2x4"x7' alum/box to fill the gap of the rotted wood. The metal shop cut/bent a new #12 guage transom 'box' which sandwiched over the alum/box and the alum/angle.
(no mayonaise, I used silicon/construction/adhesive to hold it in place)
Eight shiny new SS bolts hold the sandwich (+ teflon motor pad) together.

That was 30 years ago.
I recently saw photos of that boat 'float' in the MemorialDay's parade, complete with 'old veteran' fishermen. The paint looked perfect !

< They tell me its still in use at the local lake using battery-trollers.
< Those old rivet heads are still there under the old paint and adhesive !