Round II: Quachita 14ft jon

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got the two rivets replaced, bucked a few more, stripped the bottom of the boat and stripped almost all of the trailer.

I had to take a dremel and cut the rivets down. they fit in the hole perfect but were a little too long. We also did it backwards from the way you're supposed to. They are working great though
 

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bandgeek1263 said:
Careful of the added weight of the diamond plating.

I am going with aluminum diamond plate instead of steel. That makes a big weight difference. To tell you the truth, I think the wood I used in my last mod was heavier. Also, the sides of my boat are filled with spray-n-styrofoam and depending on my budget I may put styrofoam in the bottom too.

Thanks for the advice
 
Are you talking about the foam used for sealing cracks for insulation? "Great Stuff" I think its called. I am only concerned about this because it may not be closed cell, and may soak up water.
 
bandgeek1263 said:
Are you talking about the foam used for sealing cracks for insulation? "Great Stuff" I think its called. I am only concerned about this because it may not be closed cell, and may soak up water.


I have no idea! The boat was manufactured that way.
 
I have got the outside of the boat stripped, acetoned, primed(self-etched) and once it reaches 70 degrees today i am going to steelflex it.

Here are some pics of the things i have used.

i also found a paint gun that runs on low psi for $25. the shipping was free too. i had to buy it to spray down my trailer. come on i had to or thats what i told my wife. lol

also, i have some small holes in my boat that i can't filll with rivets because of where they are. Do you guys think alumiweld will do the trick,

one last thing, the primer says it is gray but it is really a great looking green.
 

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Nick Jones said:
more pics

Good Luck on the Steelflexing. One thing I forgot to mention was to mix all the pigment with the hardener, rather than trying to add it to each batch. I'm guessing you probably thought of that anyway.....
 
Nussy said:
Nick Jones said:
more pics

Good Luck on the Steelflexing. One thing I forgot to mention was to mix all the pigment with the hardener, rather than trying to add it to each batch. I'm guessing you probably thought of that anyway.....


yeah, i read your do's and don'ts a few times. Between you a Bufford i think i got it. That stuff is a chore though. i will explain in my next post.
 
Got a few more pics of the boat primed and steelflexed.

I primed the boat without tapping it because when I paint the boat I don’t want a line between the steelflex and the primer.

The steelflex will wear you out. It is like tar! I have to say that mine looks great! I did it in 70-76 degrees. The only thing that I didn’t expect is that it took over 5 hours for the first coat to dry or not be sticky. I purchased the cheaper version so maybe that is why it dried slower. I mixed 1 quart at a time. It was mixed half and half. I mixed the color with the Neutral/Hardener before mixing the two containers. I intend to do the second coat tomorrow after church
 

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This is really hard to explain but bare with me and PLEASE HELP!

ok i have question about small holes that are penetrating the sides of the boat! these are on the top part of the sides. the bottom half of the sides have been steelflexed so those have been fixed.

The holes are very small but water can get in. I dont want to use rivets because it would look horrible. after talking with Dan I really dont want to deal with or have the stuff laying around to use alumiweld.

This what i am thinking! i want to use something like JB Weld but i assume there is something better.

What i want:
something that will harden
something that can be sanded
something that can be painted over

All of these small holes are above the water line but i want to fix them so i don't get a drop of water in the boat.

Would 3m 5200 work? These are very small holes

also, i want to say thanks to danmyersmn for all of the help.
 

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