Round II: Quachita 14ft jon

[danmyersmn]

I think JB weld is going to end up being the best solution for you. Anything else is either going to be noticeable (dozens of pop rivets) or not usable (blind rivets) or have a equipment investment/learning curve and start your foam on fire :mrgreen: [-X (alumiweld) JB Weld should adhere well especially if you can get it squeezed into the hole and it can sort of mushroom out in the backside against the foam. Sort of like a "liquid rivet"

If nothing else pick up one of the small JB Weld kits and try it on a hole or two then you can sand it down and pick at it and see if it holds up enough for your likes.

I used it to skim coat over a few alumiwelds I did and it stuck nice and tight to the metal. I had the metal very rough sanded and smoothed it out while I was sanding down the JB Weld skim coat. I don't think 5200 is going to stick any better then the JB Weld and I have read others saying the paint doesn't stick well. Gluv-it might be an option too but you will need to get the boat tipped on its side to keep it in place.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/198423-bottom-paint-over-3m-5200-a.html

 

[Nussy]

Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]

Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.

 

[ominousone]

Is there any problem with steelflexing the whole bottom? That was my plan to make sure that I got every possible tiny little hole sealed...

 

[danmyersmn]

Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]

Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.

Alumiweld is similar to HTS2000. Its from Harbor Freight and is a bit cheaper then HTS2000. It's also a bit thicker and tends to melt slower then HTS2000. From what I have tested the HTS2000 melts before the metal is hot enough to grab it and let it flow into the material. You have to try and heat the metal and keep the flam away from the HTS2000 at the same time as your trying to put the HTS2000 onto the metal your heating with the flame. The Alumiweld takes longer to melt and flow but when it does the metal is hot enough to grab it. Nick stated he had foam behind the boat hull so I wouldn't try using it cause the foam is going to end up heating up and if it com busts then it becomes a huge mess.

 

[Nussy]

Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]

Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.

Alumiweld is similar to HTS2000. Its from Harbor Freight and is a bit cheaper then HTS2000. It's also a bit thicker and tends to melt slower then HTS2000. From what I have tested the HTS2000 melts before the metal is hot enough to grab it and let it flow into the material. You have to try and heat the metal and keep the flam away from the HTS2000 at the same time as your trying to put the HTS2000 onto the metal your heating with the flame. The Alumiweld takes longer to melt and flow but when it does the metal is hot enough to grab it. Nick stated he had foam behind the boat hull so I wouldn't try using it cause the foam is going to end up heating up and if it com busts then it becomes a huge mess.

Thanks, I wasn't familiar with a Alumaweld. I'll keep that in mind for my next project.

 

[Nick Jones]

I think JB weld is going to end up being the best solution for you. Anything else is either going to be noticeable (dozens of pop rivets) or not usable (blind rivets) or have a equipment investment/learning curve and start your foam on fire :mrgreen: [-X (alumiweld) JB Weld should adhere well especially if you can get it squeezed into the hole and it can sort of mushroom out in the backside against the foam. Sort of like a "liquid rivet"

If nothing else pick up one of the small JB Weld kits and try it on a hole or two then you can sand it down and pick at it and see if it holds up enough for your likes.

I used it to skim coat over a few alumiwelds I did and it stuck nice and tight to the metal. I had the metal very rough sanded and smoothed it out while I was sanding down the JB Weld skim coat. I don't think 5200 is going to stick any better then the JB Weld and I have read others saying the paint doesn't stick well. Gluv-it might be an option too but you will need to get the boat tipped on its side to keep it in place.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/198423-bottom-paint-over-3m-5200-a.html

Man i wish i would have read this before i used the 3m 5200! I am posting some pic's of the what i did but i have already sanded it off. The 3m 5200 is like trying to paint silicone. live and learn i guess.

I got the trailer completely prepped for priming.

 

[danmyersmn]

so you have a final repair or you tried the 5200 and then tried to paint it and then sanded it off and now your back at square one?

Either way, I had another option I tested for you and will post it up for knowledge. I used this stuff to make a fix in my boat when I first bought it.
https://tinyurl.com/yky7oad

When I was sanding it off to replace with a solid rivet it was stuck on just as strong as when I first installed it. I was thinking how would it sand and paint so I tested it.

The website doesn't say if paint will stick to it well. It is a 3M product so I suppose they would answer if you wanted to know for sure.


I applied it using a small torch on the lightest setting. Think of a propane torch with a mild blue flame coming out. No hissing or whistling or anything. Heck, like a science class bunson burner before you put teachers shoes on it [-X :mrgreen: I heated the aluminum until the stuff started to melt on it then I sort of directed the flame more towards the stick and got it melting and dripping onto the holes. Then I sort of shoved the stick around in it building up material.

Next I tried sanding it but the flap wheel heated it up and it started to gum up. I then used a razor blade and shaved it off leaving the hole full.

Coat of primer, I didn't do anything to prep the metal so this primer isn't going to stick well but we can see how it sticks to the fix material.

Oh, no pic of primer. OOpps, ok, her is a top coat of Mopar Red engine paint. I will take to this with some sandpaper or something in a day or two after it fully cures and see how it holds up.

As for filling I think it did a great job at that.

 

[Nick Jones]

took a little fish break at my wife's grandparents.

 

[Nick Jones]

but i did get some work done today

 

[Nick Jones]

more progress!

 

[Nick Jones]

painted trailer!

 

[Brine]

Looks good Nick

 

[danmyersmn]

but i did get some work done today

That waterweld is good stuff. We fixed a buddies plastic gas tank with it. One day we launched his boat to go fishing I was in the boat he was backing it in the water. As I was drifting out with the boat I noticed water filling up the rear of the boat. I yelled something along the lines of "hey dumba$$ where is your plug" He said "i put it in". I looked closer and it was in. I also started to smell it wasn't water. He had a small hole that wore through the bottom of the tank. We tipped it up and shoved that waterweld into the hole and off we went.

best part about the waterweld is how it stinks and you cant get the smell off your fingers. :wink:

 

[Nick Jones]

Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]

Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.

Sorry man i missed this post. The second coat went on really easy. However, the first coat was a pain. I wanted my side rivets to be covered with the steelflex but after reading your post i decided to go a little thinner so it wouldn't run. I figured it wouldnt matter how thick the sides were as long as the rivets were covered since it doesn't take the same abuse as the bottom.

 

[JBoze]

Have read through both of your boat threads. Did you trade your old one straight up for this one? The white one turned out awesome.

 

[Nick Jones]

Have read through both of your boat threads. Did you trade your old one straight up for this one? The white one turned out awesome.

Not Really! I didnt like the stability of the last boat and i didnt want to rip everything out.

 

[rusmir]

Nice work

 

[Nick Jones]

Got started back on the boat today. Got the aluminum diamond plate cut for the front of the boat. This is to help with traction when standing on the front of the boat checking trotlines. i am going to pop rivet it later.

 

[dyeguy1212]

diamond plate looks bad arse... wish I could afford that :shock:

 

[Nick Jones]

diamond plate looks bad arse... wish I could afford that :shock:

yeah, well when you live in a small southern state they have lots of our door flea markets. I got 12ft of it for less than a $100. The guy i bought it from buys the odds and ends and then sales it to people like us for little to nothing.