Smackdaddy's "Pole Dancer" 1652 Polar Kraft flush deck jet b

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Looks great Smack,

I think it should float pretty skinny, I don't see it drafting more that 5" at rest. Lets get that thing wet............................ =D>
 
Most people that have seen her think she will be top heavy but just like the women I love, the bottom balances it all out nicely...haha
With three 60# optimas, a 25 gallon fuel tank and a few other items below deck I believe my center of gravity will be fine. I think about all the top drive and tower boats I see that are only 8 feet wide and have a 10-14' platform on them with two or three large dudes hanging out up there. Even regular flats boats of standard width with a 6-8" raised console platform are getting pretty high and some even have above deck gas tanks.
With the pods and 52" bottom I believe it will all work out well.
 
Smack what's up dawg,

When are you going to get that thing wet? I remember my float test like it was yesterday. You will be so relieved once that's done. I'm saying 5" draft at rest.
 
Country Dave said:
Smack what's up dawg,

When are you going to get that thing wet? I remember my float test like it was yesterday. You will be so relieved once that's done. I'm saying 5" draft at rest.
Que paso vato loco Dave?
I have three more days to work and Im off for two weeks. I am setting aside about 6-7 days to fish and at least 3 to work on the boat. Slowly but surely it is coming together.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337272#p337272 said:
smackdaddy53 » 27 Dec 2013, 20:44[/url]"]
Country Dave said:
Smack what's up dawg,

When are you going to get that thing wet? I remember my float test like it was yesterday. You will be so relieved once that's done. I'm saying 5" draft at rest.
Que paso vato loco Dave?
I have three more days to work and Im off for two weeks. I am setting aside about 6-7 days to fish and at least 3 to work on the boat. Slowly but surely it is coming together.

Que pasa mufasa........................ :LOL2:

Have you got her wet yet.................................................... :mrgreen:
 
Country Dave said:
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337272#p337272 said:
smackdaddy53 » 27 Dec 2013, 20:44[/url]"]
Country Dave said:
Smack what's up dawg,

When are you going to get that thing wet? I remember my float test like it was yesterday. You will be so relieved once that's done. I'm saying 5" draft at rest.
Que paso vato loco Dave?
I have three more days to work and Im off for two weeks. I am setting aside about 6-7 days to fish and at least 3 to work on the boat. Slowly but surely it is coming together.

Que pasa mufasa........................ :LOL2:

Have you got her wet yet.................................................... :mrgreen:
I took her to the nearest ramps and they were all either too steep or in too bad of shape to launch. I am going to be off 14 days starting tomorrow so I am going to take her to a reservoir I know has a good ramp and not a lot of people launching. I want calm fresh water and a gradual ramo to get her wet. Im getting an aluminum trailer built for her in January hopefully so I can get rid of that huge, heavy, way too wide trailer.
 
I will add photos tomorrow but I got the drain tubes fabbed and welded in on each side on the stern. Going with dual 1200 gph bilge pumps for good measure.
Poling platform has been doctored up, my buddy TIG welded the stress cracks from the previous owner backing the platform into the garage opening and cracked a few of the welds.
I have made my decision to recess the middle 8' of the floor and leave about 12" gunnels on each side. I will have rod racks on each side under the gunnels with pvc tubes for the top half of each fishing rod. This will allow me to put the Tempress hatches vertically on the front and rear deck so leakage is minimum. You guys will see it all come together soon. I really want this project to work out and decided recessing the deck will add stability (lower center of gravity) and actually increase storage area and functionality. I know some of you recommended this but I was being hard headed. If I wanted a full deck boat I would either need a wider hull, shallower hull or both.
More to come!
 
Drain tube welded in on both sides.
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Cracks on platform welded as well.
You need to drill a small hole at the end of a crack in aluminum then weld it all up. This hole will fill with aluminum and keep it from cracking again and over all strengthens the weld.
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Bought a 24' stick of 2x2" tubing from my friend today and picked up a new Dewalt portable band saw (120v) so I can cut my existing framing without removing it from the boat. I am tracking down some local 2x2x1/8" angle to make some mounting clips and it is on! I drank a few Millers after work today and mulled over the changes I am going to make to the deck layout and I am convinced the recessed floor is the way to go.
Sorry for the delays lately guys, I hope you have not lost interest in my build. I have been busy and like to do it right like Dave stated. Once I get to cutting, drilling, riveting and welding on it I will get some good pictures to pique your interest.
 
Here are the cuts I made today after work. I have a better feeling about the project now. I cut the center three stringers and will be moving the cut out to the floor. It sound easy in theory but there is a little more fabrication and "demo" work to it. This is what I love about projects like this, changing on the fly and making it work the way I want!
Removed the deck and set it aside
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New tools are fun!
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You can see the center stringers I cut and moved over 4"
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Thanks Dave. Its hard to tell whats what in the pics but im leaving the center two stringers to mount the console to but still be able to have it completely open underneath. It will be easier to visualize after I cut them out this afternoon if I get off early enough. This layout will be much better than the full flush deck. Im glad you guys convinced me to do it.
 
Alright, got the clips riveted and the stringers cut. Now for the floor layout. I am going to run 5 full length 2x2 square tubing floor joists for the floor and extend two of them all the way to the rear of the boat to give the tunnel a little more support (I doubt it needs it but overbuilt is never bad!) and you can see this in the third picture.
Next steps are cutting the recessed parts of the decking out and getting the floor supports riveted in and more aluminum for the gunnel covers.

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I like your design change. You will still have tons of flat deck to fish off of, and the ride will probably be a bit better with a lower center of gravity. Looking good Smack.
 
The fuel tank up front is going to be a big plus,

You don't want it bow heavy anymore than you want it stern heavy. If you can't have the perfect center of buoyancy I think a little heavy in the stern is better than being to heavy up front. A balanced load is the key. My buds Actioncraft is bow heavy with full fuel, the tank is all the way up front and it rides like chit in a chop and wants to porpoise bad without dialing in the trim taps.
 
Yeah I figured you guys would like that better. Thanks for the thumbs up!

I got a lot done today and yesterday. Popped 400 rivets and used up about 30 feet of square tubing and 12 feet of 2" angle for mounting clips.

Here is the beefed up floor and doubled up gunnels so I don't need and upright braces to get in the way of my under gunnel rod storage. I am also thinking about putting three access hatches on each side under the gunnels between braces just so I maximize space.
I will be adding plenty of closed cell foam under the floor, in the bow and stern as well to be CG compliant and reduce noise while running and walking around in the boat. I am really stoked about the changes I made. The 25 gallon fuel tank fits perfectly under the bow deck with room to spare. My three optima batteries will go under the console on the floor and one reserve gel cell just to have it.
This is much more work than it looks! My new Dewalt portable band saw and old trusty pneumatic rivet gun were necessities in this build! Plenty of c clamps and hand clamps were definitely helpful to hold material and get everything square while riveting. The floor joists are about 8" on center and there is a slight valley in the floor for drainage. Also got my bucking bar and modified air hammer out to buck a couple solid rivets to hold the drain plug backer in place. I will be running plenty of polyurethane sealant on everything before adding the Tuffcoat nonskid texture. Loving it!!! Enjoy.
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