Trailer light mounting

[Captain Ahab]

I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore. Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.

I'd like to do this as well, but I would need to splice and extend my current wiring setup. Any tips on doing this and keeping it water proof? I don't want to run new wiring throughout the trailer.

Yes, most wiring harnesses are just a few feet short of being able to reach the light when mounted on the guide. So, you'll need to splice. The BEST method is to use self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, and also wrap those connections with 3M splicing tape.

I agree - completely forgot about mentioning the self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors

 

[Johnny]

Anyone that is still running the filament bulbs (me too) should put a good coating
of " Dielectric Grease " inside the bulb socket as well as on the bulb brass itself.
Helps prevent the corrosion factor which leads to a bad connection.
I have just started squirting the dielectric grease into the butt connectors
and terminal lugs prior to inserting the wires and crimping them. Just an extra layer of protection.
Eventually, I will join the 21st Century and get the LED lights.
My current lights are high up on the 2" PVC guide posts.

 

[PSG-1]

I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore. Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.

I'd like to do this as well, but I would need to splice and extend my current wiring setup. Any tips on doing this and keeping it water proof? I don't want to run new wiring throughout the trailer.

Solder wires with heat shrink tubing - and the add silicone then wrap with electrical tape (after silicone layer dries.

Nothing is 100% water proof but this will last a long long time

Soldering is an invitation to corrosion. ABYC does not suggest soldering, but instead, using heat shrink butt connectors.

 

[nowgrn4]

I use an inexpensive 50' orange 3/14 extension cord and cut it in half. On my Pro-Line bay rig I run each lights circuit uninterrupted along each frame rail from the tow vehicles pig tail terminating up through the PVC guide on post to each light. On my fresh water Weld-Craft rig I do the same but terminate at the lights mounted on top of the guide on bunks. All connections are soldered then coated with RTV. Then I slide the shrink tubing over the mess and heat until I get a blob of RTV out of each end.

Absolutely bulletproof. No connections or lights are ever submerged. Do it right once and forgetaboutit.