Trailer Upgrade Projects

[chadzeilenga]

Hi All,
I've worked through the reliability issues (wiring, hubs) on my trailer so that we can haul the boat around to lakes here and do some boating/fishing. I wanted to start improving a few of the other items I have to make the trailering/loading process easier.

1. How are safety chains/cables typically attached to a trailer? My trailer is home made so there are no provisions, but I was just thinking of using a bolt through the frame tube.

2. How should the boat be secured to the trailer during transport? In the past I've used a ratchet strap from the handles on back of transom to the trailer, but I don't want to cause any damage. Is there something to hold boat down to trailer that doesn't use the rear transom?

3. The coupler I have is a Fulton brand with a "handwheel" type connection. Is there anyway to prevent this from loosening? Granted it hasn't loosened in 50yrs...
4. I'm planning to relocate the groundwire attachment to a more protected location and was planning on just using a self-drill/tap screw. Are there any better options?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If you replace the coupler with a bolt type on you can use the bolts to attach the safety chains.
I use a ratchet strap going over the boat to the trailer frame rails.
I use a self tapping stainless steel screw for my ground but then I continue the ground wire to each light and back to the self tapping screw.

 

[chadzeilenga]

If you replace the coupler with a bolt type on you can use the bolts to attach the safety chains.
I use a ratchet strap going over the boat to the trailer frame rails.
I use a self tapping stainless steel screw for my ground but then I continue the ground wire to each light and back to the self tapping screw.

Yea, since it’s a welded on, I’d rather not change out the coupler. I’ll probably just do a GR8 thru bolt. I’ll try out the ratchet strap over the boat and see how that goes


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[ClemsonAlum]

On my trailer I used a stainless self tapping screw, two layers of heat shrink, and spray type liquid electrical tape and it is pretty solid. As for straps on the rear, my boat has the cleats on the corner brackets and I have cam buckle straps down to the bunks. Sounds like you got the rest figured out.

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[ClemsonAlum]

My ground connection. Not perfect but pretty solid.

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[Midwesterner]

:shock: My trailer safety chains are just through bolted with a grade 8 of decent size.

You can hook to the rear carry handles, the straps just need to be snug. I put two eyelets in the rear of my trailer and strap them with to the handles with these.

You also need to add a safety chain up by the winch.

 

[maintenanceguy]

I think about what happens in an accident. Everything that holds the boat onto the trailer gets thru-bolted. Forged eyes on eye bolts or weight rated D-rings. For safety chains, I think a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt is plenty strong enough.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Anyone else think that OPs trailer is too small for that boat?


Everything from the winch height to the length of the bunks looks off.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Anyone else think that OPs trailer is too small for that boat?


Everything from the winch height to the length of the bunks looks off.

I'd say that's as big as you can go on that trailer.

 

[chadzeilenga]

Interesting, this is the trailer that was built for the boat.


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[LDUBS]

I can't tell from the photos but I would make sure the bunks extend back under and fully support the transom of the boat.

 

[chadzeilenga]

I can't tell from the photos but I would make sure the bunks extend back under and fully support the transom of the boat.

Hi, they do not currently. Extending the bunks is an upgrade project that I have on the list. They are currently about 18” long. I’d like to rotate 90deg so the wide part is supporting and increase length as much as I can.


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