Transom Replacement Wood

[The Wirtzer]

OK, So I got at free boat....

It is a 14 ft aluminum boat (don't know the maker yet but will post that soon) in great shape except that it has been sitting upside down since probably 1993 and the plywood transom will need to be replaced. After looking at other posts here, everyone uses marine grade plywood. Why plywood? Can solid wood be used instead, say hard Maple or Oak? I have access to a lot of that in 1 and 1.5 inch thickness. Since I want to keep this boat as close to free as possible, is it possible to use solid wood? What are the drawbacks, etc?

Thanks

Tim

 

[Ringo Steele]

Solid wood can certainly be used. Plywood is usually used because of its resistance to bending and its ready availability. Some follks use marine grade, but exterior grade will work well too, and is much cheaper (if not quite as nice of a grain on most pieces).

If you choose to use solid wood, white oak is a good choice due to its strength and rot resistance. Maple or red oak would also work, as they are strong enough, but I don't know if they offer the same rot resistance. Some mahoganies are suitable, too. Be sure to seal the wood well, and you should be OK.

The possible drawbacks with solid wood could include warping, twisting, and checking. Make sure the wood is well dried before you seal it up.

 

[ASUAviator]

Ive got 1.5 of oak across mine. Some polyurethane and care will make it last forever

 

[The Wirtzer]

Thanks for the info. Being a woodworker I actually have a lot of Maple, Red Oak and White Oak, though the WO is quartersawn and WAY too expensive for a boat transom. Its all been dried and has just been waiting for a use. I also have some exterior grade plywood so I could use that. I just didn't want to have to go buy marine grade ply for this application since I don't have any other use for it.

Tim

 

[BassBlaster]

I was also throwing around the idea of using dimensional hardwood since Im a woodworker and have plenty of it around. The deal is, your not going to stop it from warping, twisting, cracking, etc without a lot of care. First, you need to be sure it is at EMC, not dry. Then after it is finished milled it needs to be sealed. DO NOT use poly. If your going to use a urethane product, be sure to use spar but even better would be to glass it or use some type of exterior grade epoxy coat. At this point I wish I would have had my transom done in aluminum. The transom is the only wood on my boat.

If you decide to go with plywood which is the better option, you dont need marine grade. Just buy a sheet of 3/4" exterior grade and cut two panels larger than your transom. Glue the 2 panels together with TB3 and stack blocks or some other weight on it over night. Cut your transom from the laminated panel you made and seal it good(min 3 coats of spar). It will last along time. I even stained mine a nice walnut color before sealing so I didnt have to look at ugly plywood!!

 

[The Wirtzer]

Thanks, BassBlaster. Maybe I'll do that. I think I can find a half sheet at Lowes. I just don't know what I'd do with the remaining wood if I bought a full 4X8 sheet.

Tim

 

[JMichael]

If your goal or what you're worried about is using it all up, get a sheet of ¼x4x8, cut it up and start laminating it together to the desired thickness. You did say you were a woodworker. :mrgreen: :lol:

 

[The Wirtzer]

That's a great idea. If I can't find a short piece at the BigBox, that's what I'll do. Heck, I'm sure my 'handler will want something built outside. I'm sure I'll find some use for the extra wood. I think my biggest issue is that I'm just cheap and hate parting with money..... Guess I kind of took that on when I got the boat, though, didn't I?

Now here's the kicker to this whole project..... I was told I have to go to India on Friday for a month. I won't get to do any of this work until I get back. Grrr :x

 

[Beercap]

Hey guys, I'm redoing my transom at the moment too so I found myself reading your thread... An evil old 2 stroke cracked the plywood on the back ! At first I was totally bummed by now that I read your post I want a pretty transom too ! My question is when you're working the calking gun to apply marine sealant in the screw holes how do you limit the amount of exposure to the wood so its stays pretty?

I'm thinking of going white oak btw or doing two 5/8" plywood prices stuck together, stained, and polyed.

 

[The Wirtzer]

Update.. Got the new transom built and installed last Sunday. Used lots of 3M 5200 and 1/4-20 bolts instead of the smaller original ones though this required me to drill out the the holes in the transom a bit.

Took the boat (which I found out to be a 1967 Sears) and the 1956 Evinrude 15 hp to Lake Vermilion in northern Minnesota Thursday through today. Had four Fantastic days of fishing with my nephews. The motor never so much as hiccupped. I had absolutely no leaks from anywhere in the boat - transom or otherwise. I felt totally comfortable cruising around this big, long lake in a boat one year older than I am powered by a motor 12 years older.

Tim

 

[The Wirtzer]

Beercap - sorry I didn't read your post until now. I first pre-drilled the holes in the transom, holding on the front and back pieces with clamps. Then, i took them off and made rings of caulk around each of the bolt holes on the inside faces of the front and back pieces - the pieces that will mate together and mate to the aluminum. Then, when I put the bolts through and tightened everything up, the caulk squeezed into the holes and sealed around the bolts. I know this actually happened because I put the wrong length bolt in one hole and didn't realize it until after I was done. When I pounded (yes, pounded) the bolt out, it had goo all over it but there was no goo on the outside of the transom. And, as I posted above, I didn't have any leaks at all this weekend.

Tim