Under cowl fuel line replacement. Help needed

[Walli]

I am changing the undercowl fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburators on my 115 horse mariner. I ordered some hose from the local Mercury Marine dealer and they sent me type B1 I was wondering if that is the right hose or do we need an A1 under the cowl of a outboard motor. I have searched through the Coast Guard regs and everywhere and nowhere does it make it plain what to use on an outboard engine. Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou

 

[DaleH]

I'd use A1 if it were mine ... from J1527 SAE standard:

Ratings are determined on these two factors, permeability and fire resistance. Particularly with volatile gasoline, permeability is a concern due to vapor build up. If it is in an enclosed space "below deck" it must not give off explosive vapors. Manufacturers often refer to hose as "above deck/topside" or "below deck" hose, which is simply a trade gimmick way of phrasing the permeability rating.

The rating system exclusively for marine hose is known as SAE J1527 and it provides for grades as follows:

A1--fuel feed hose; has a fire resistant cover; is designed to have fuel in the hose at all times. Least permeable with highest fire resistance.

A2--fuel vent hose; has a fire resistant cover; is not designed to have fuel in the hose at all times.

B1--fuel feed hose; without fire resistant cover; is designed to have fuel in the hose at all times; intended for non-enclosed spaces. Diesel engines or above deck outboard gasoline applications.

B2--fuel vent hose; without fire resistant cover; is not designed to have fuel in the hose at all times. Diesel vent lines.

 

[Walli]

Ok will take your advice. Darn b1 was hard enuff to install but will give the a1 a try. Thankyou.

 

[richg99]

Not sure if this is the correct procedure, but, when I have to install stiff hoses, I boil some water and dip the Hose end in before slipping it on. richg99

 

[DaleH]

Not sure if this is the correct procedure, but, when I have to install stiff hoses, I boil some water and dip the Hose end in before slipping it on. richg99

I've done that where I made a small jig and let it cool in roughly the position needed when installed. The jig was just some nails to hold the routing and pieces of strapping added to a board, for where it took a sharp 90-degree corner. Admittedly, yeah .... sometimes working on OBs you wonder how the heck they put it together!

Once had a bolt on an old V4 below the pan to remove ... took hours for what should have been minutes !!!! ; could only turn the bolt 10-degrees out at a time. I recall bitching about it on-line on the old WMI Forums and Dunk said he drills a 3/4" hole in the pan, uses a socket set to get the offending bolt out (and back in) then simply presses a 3/4" plastic cap back in place .... grrrrrrrrrrrr, and duh, wish I had thought of it. Neat idea though!