Why the carpet hate?

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Here's a picture of my boat before I put the flooring down. The front deck is welded up along the sides and the side panels are welded in the console area. The rear boxes are welded in place so no edge on them. The floor in the console area is riveted down, but I would have had to remove all the rivets/console to wrap the flooring around the floor. A lot of the 14-17' mod-v jon boats are like this so it's tough to do the vinyl flooring cleanly. Like mentioned, you would need flat aluminum riveted down and angle aluminum to help hold it. My curling up unglued flooring is still better than walking on hot aluminum though!

Yup, your situation won't allow the wrapping the edge. Too bad the vinyl is puckering up. Again, a line of rivets to hold the floor cover in place just isn't appealing to me. If there is another solution, I can't think what it might be.
 
I wonder if puckering vinyl might be convinced to behave with a little heat and a LOT of weight. Heat will often reactivate the glue. I've had pretty good luck with my heat gun on old car dashboards.
 
I think he had a modern boat with aluminum floors that are welded in place. Some floors you can't remove, as they are part of the structure.

Like this one:
View attachment 116491

I wouldn't want to drill a bunch of holes in my boat either. But I probably wouldn't be adding vinyl over that sweet camo non-skid. That's a nice boat.
Not sure I would want my floors welded in place, how does one acess the underside when needed ?? As the boat ages and gets beatup after some years, I can think of many reasons to want to acess the underside.
 
I have run into that situation several times, and that's where going with a roll-on textured finish really works well. If done right, they are comfortable, attractive and durable.
 
Not sure I would want my floors welded in place, how does one acess the underside when needed ?? As the boat ages and gets beatup after some years, I can think of many reasons to want to acess the underside.

The front deck is welded but the floor in the console area is riveted to the cross beams. There should be no reason to access under the floor since it is installed at the factory and all the cables/wiring run above the floor. You could get to it if you wanted to drill out all the rivets and remove the console.
 
The front deck is welded but the floor in the console area is riveted to the cross beams. There should be no reason to access under the floor since it is installed at the factory and all the cables/wiring run above the floor. You could get to it if you wanted to drill out all the rivets and remove the console.
As long as there was some kind of acess...just in case !
 
I have run into that situation several times, and that's where going with a roll-on textured finish really works well. If done right, they are comfortable, attractive and durable.
Hey....roll on carpet without the ability to hold hooks...great invention...do they make a good looking Roll on besides bed coating...not impressed with that stuff.
 
Figured I would update this with more info on my boat. I was out yesterday and looked at the floor closer. It turns out my floor is shaped somewhat like a \___/ to match the hull and it's riveted down to the crossbeams. But the sides overlap the floor and the sides are welded at the top and riveted to the crossbeams. So there's no way to remove the floor easily if I wanted to wrap the vinyl flooring around it. My guess is the sides are welded at the top to reduce any potential rattling/vibration. It's something to think about if anyone plans to order a new boat, maybe get the side pieces separate and put them in yourself if you're ever worried about being able to get under the floor.
 
If you have a new boat, and make sure to rinse very well after running in salt water, you shouldn't need to go under there for many, many years. I built my Princecraft maybe 10 years ago, and never needed to go under the decks, although I could if I wanted to. Just no need to.

If everything in your boat is aluminum, that will be a very, very long time in the future. Let the kids and grandkids worry about that.

Yes, they make some really cool roll on non-slip coatings nowadays. Not cheap bedliner, I don't like that stuff, see my earlier post. The good stuff is a bit expensive, but I've heard it's worth it.
 
Well with my do over I am using >Outdoor Artificial Event Turf with Marine Back DARK BROWN synthetic grass carpet, considered a carpet but it's not really! I double dipped my deck waterproof it and stained now the new cover being waterproof and the backing being also water proof all will run off like water off a ducks back & clean up a snap + dries like in minutes. wood underneath has been treated to where I allowed each coat to sit a couple days to soak in before next one was applied so "if" any -type of moisture does get in there wont last long and dry right up & like the man said a good cover keep's all clean neat & tidy! pictures will be coming this week as just received my new deck cover over a wet weekend. says this week comming up suppose to be back in 70's and sunny/(y):rolleyes:;):)
 
Keeping your boat inside when not in use is plays a really big part in saving carpet and wood it is mounted on. A boat sitting out side with a poor or no cover will have a short life !! For example, I recently bought a Sylvan aluminum boat, third owner, first two owners were neighbors. Boat has always been a garage queen, carpet is only slightly sun faded, a few thread bare spots on corners and areas where the traffic is heavy, but still in very nice condition !! No rotted decking underneath the carpet, yes, it gets spray on it but is left to dry in my barn. If really wet, I add a fan. Boat is a 1992....
 
My 1984 I redid. I used plywood and penetrating epoxy. Made it into three sections I can remove with a couple screws. Then on top I installed male snaps the the females went on the marine carpet. I can take the hole thing apart for drying , cleaning , inspecting the bottom.
It gets a lot of spray sometimes but I can dry it easily. I decided one day to put it to a big complaint about carpet and took a crank bait with three table hooks and threw it on the floor. I picked it right back up no snags.EF9E4AFD-279E-4492-9E93-2F39378B3C75.jpegC37D3F5D-E66D-4C0A-BE29-E5782E24E94A.jpeg
 
They do in my area! Numerous bass clubs and most all have removed the carpet. Hooks get hooked in the carpet and are hard to get out, when you hit it with a hose to clean it, your soaking the wood under it. Carpet looks nasty after a number of years. Most are going to vinyl, when I replace my carpet, vinyl will be used. I guess some folks like carpet, and good for them, but from what I read in most forums, the general concensus is carpet must go.
I like the idea of marideck waterproof vinyl or some such product on the flooring. For "other" horizontal and vertical surfaces, I like the hdpd plastic at 1" of thickness. The hdpd is utterly waterproof so carpeting is just fine on that stuff. I like the softening effect of carpet in certain areas.
 
Good point. Carpet quiets the hull down significantly, especially when back in shallow coves, stalking big, smart fish.
 
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