Gonna try these out, worst case if they don't seem to be the right fit I'll go a diff route but I am planning to do some more work in the near future so if I need to pull the floor back out those make it easier then I can rivet it later.
They are most likely 3/16 Brazier Head rivets. 1100 aluminum. I am on my 4th hull rebuild. 2 StarCraft, a Duracraft, and a Mirrocraft. They were all 3/16 Braziers. I ordered on Amazon. Picked up the long barrel air hammer with feather trigger from HF. It's a 2 person job as you need someone to hold the bucking bar inside while the other drives from outside. Practice a bit joining some scrap to get the feel of it. Seal rivets and seams with Gluvit and it will stay sealed up..unless you ram a log or rock..
I don't think you understood him. They are NOT Brazier head rivets in the floor. There is no way for anyone to get to the other side of the rivet. (That's between the floor and the hull)They are most likely 3/16 Brazier Head rivets. 1100 aluminum. I am on my 4th hull rebuild. 2 StarCraft, a Duracraft, and a Mirrocraft. They were all 3/16 Braziers. I ordered on Amazon. Picked up the long barrel air hammer with feather trigger from HF. It's a 2 person job as you need someone to hold the bucking bar inside while the other drives from outside. Practice a bit joining some scrap to get the feel of it. Seal rivets and seams with Gluvit and it will stay sealed up..unless you ram a log or rock..
Maybe I did misunderstand him. But from my experiences they have been Brazier and you have to remove the floor and foam to get to them. You would still need do that for rivnuts, which are not sealed. Also if the threads back out, instant leak.
Yeah they were a ***** to get out so assuming stainless, just too much moisture under the floor they rotted out bad.
A
Ahhh ok. I was trying to wrap my mind around using rivnuts though the hull and it kinda hurt my brain..
I think in that case I would just use aluminum pop rivets. No galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals. Easy to drill out if needed. Or 316 SS screws, pre drilled holes, coat the screws with Indian head aviation shellac. It helps immensely with bolts not corroding in outboards, should do the same there. I am by no means an expert. I continue to read and research just like you are,
I ground the heads as low as I could after I drilled the middles out and then used a chisel to shear the rest of the head off. Took a lot of leverage and some brute force to pop the floor up finally.
When I did mine I believe I used a 3/16 bit. The holes are right at 1/4 inch. I would definitely add some drain holes to the framing underneath because those side channels don't drain at all. There's some foam under there but the bulk of it is in the back bench and pods plus some under the casting deck.
