16' Monark Mod V Jon - The end of the Road - FOR SALE

[Henry Hefner]

Weather isn't great, and won't be for a while (need a bunch of nice days in a row to really get into this thing), so I decided to rip out the transom. It was half waterlogged, and had all sorts of critters behind it. Glad I did that.

I am just thinking about ripping out the second to last bench seat. I don't think it should be a problem, given the thickness of the aluminum, the ribs that extend all the way up the side, and putting some more flotation foam back in to make up for the material lost in the seat. Any suggestions?

How do I take out the riveted seats? Do I just drill into the rivets? I read that here, but a little more information would be great before I screw anything up!

Looks plenty sturdy from the pics to remove a seat without any problems. To remove the rivets, choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the hole the rivet goes through, and you should be able to use the same size rivets to plug the holes back up after the seat is removed.
I'll pass on to you a definition I enjoyed. Drill: (noun) a motorized tool used to make rivets spin in place while cussing and sweating.

 

[ober51]

Weather isn't great, and won't be for a while (need a bunch of nice days in a row to really get into this thing), so I decided to rip out the transom. It was half waterlogged, and had all sorts of critters behind it. Glad I did that.

I am just thinking about ripping out the second to last bench seat. I don't think it should be a problem, given the thickness of the aluminum, the ribs that extend all the way up the side, and putting some more flotation foam back in to make up for the material lost in the seat. Any suggestions?

How do I take out the riveted seats? Do I just drill into the rivets? I read that here, but a little more information would be great before I screw anything up!

Looks plenty sturdy from the pics to remove a seat without any problems. To remove the rivets, choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the hole the rivet goes through, and you should be able to use the same size rivets to plug the holes back up after the seat is removed.
I'll pass on to you a definition I enjoyed. Drill: (noun) a motorized tool used to make rivets spin in place while cussing and sweating.

It's funny, I was looking through your rebuild this morning for ideas on the removal, and then you answer, so thanks!

Here are two pics of the transom removed, really a PITA, and might even have to reinstall in two pieces, we'll see. Not too worried.

If I do remove the seats, I am guessing that I can put some 3M 5300 in the rivets to seal them up well?

 

[Ranchero50]

For removing rivets, what's worked best for me is a flap disc in a grinder, basically sand the rivet head off (you don't get into the spinning rivet syndrome that way). Pop the seat or whatever free with a screwdriver and then sand the rivet the rest of the way down, then drill a 1/2" hole in a 2x4 and place the board over the outside to act as a block (hold it with your knee) and use a 1/4" punch and hammer to knock the rest out. The board keeps the rivet from distorting the metal. If you weld, just puddle weld over the remains of the rivet head and then sand off the outside head...

Jamie

 

[baptistpreach]

Fantastic find! I'd like to be the first to welcome you to the Monark Brotherhood. I'm interested to see what you do with this boat. I've modded my 14 fter, and its a very good boat. Keep up the great work.

 

[ober51]

Fantastic find! I'd like to be the first to welcome you to the Monark Brotherhood. I'm interested to see what you do with this boat. I've modded my 14 fter, and its a very good boat. Keep up the great work.

Thanks, Preach. I haven't even really started due to this freaking weather here in Jersey. Rain the past several days, plus rain every day this week aside from Wednesday, and I have been called into work every day and have class at night. Sooo, it's frustrating seeing it sit in the driveway.

Next step is just rebucking those rivets and maybe getting some of the marine JB Weld on the ones I can't reach, sand, Steel Flex. That's the plan.

BTW, these boats seem really well built. That means if I do this right, I can have this for a long time. It also means I can't move it around at all by myself, lol.

 

[ober51]

Went to Boater's World and planned and bought a bit more. As you know, Steel Flex will cover the bottom. The inside will now be coated by Gluvit - as it was 40% off, bringing it down to $79 for a gallon! I also settled on some paint, choosing Interlux Brightside Sapphire Blue (which will be two toned with the Steel Flex). I was on the fence with this or Bright Red, and then saw evattman's "Lund" and was convinced Sapphire was the right choice. Whether it looks as good is another story.

As for painting - this time I have decided that I don't need to take the hull all the way down to aluminum for the topside paint (porobably will do that for the Steel Flex though). Given this, I have decided to only use the self-etch primer on the bare spots of aluminum and then use Interlux PreKote to prime over the sanded paint, does this sound right? I think it will even give it a great shine if I do light paint, light sanding with 320 grit, and many coats.

To recap: self etch primer for bare spots, then PreKote, then Brightside...sound right?

 

[ober51]

Went to Boater's World and planned and bought a bit more. As you know, Steel Flex will cover the bottom. The inside will now be coated by Gluvit - as it was 40% off, bringing it down to $79 for a gallon! I also settled on some paint, choosing Interlux Brightside Sapphire Blue (which will be two toned with the Steel Flex). I was on the fence with this or Bright Red, and then saw evattman's "Lund" and was convinced Sapphire was the right choice. Whether it looks as good is another story.

As for painting - this time I have decided that I don't need to take the hull all the way down to aluminum for the topside paint (porobably will do that for the Steel Flex though). Given this, I have decided to only use the self-etch primer on the bare spots of aluminum and then use Interlux PreKote to prime over the sanded paint, does this sound right? I think it will even give it a great shine if I do light paint, light sanding with 320 grit, and many coats.

To recap: self etch primer for bare spots, then PreKote, then Brightside...sound right?

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Would be mucho appreciated!

 

[Brine]

Sounds right to me.

No need to go down to bare aluminum with the steelflex either. Just scuff up what you've got remove all the dust and make sure there is no loose paint left.

 

[ober51]

These are some tentative plans for my boat - when I do it. I will add a legend in a second, but for now I am just trying to get an idea of if I like it or not.

Legend:

Black = Raised deck, storage underneath (blue)
Blue = Storage
White = Seat mounts
Gray = Battery/Electrical
Brown = Floor
Orange = Cutting board, hard surface to work on
Black circles with white inside = cup holders
Red = Gasoline
Pink (at the bow) = Motor mount
Green = Livewell (which I may put in between the two blue hatches if there is room)
Lights = haven't decided where, but I have chosen to put in them above side storage and to illuminate the floor

Well that's it for now. I would like some critiques and suggestions. This is obviously not drawn to scale, but rather just a starting point. I will put the switch panel in, tentatively next to the livewell (front right) adjacent to the side storage. underneath the up holders. Electrical is what is most daunting right now - so I will likely need a lot of help and read that 12-Volt Bible for boats.

 

[Stryker777]

Love the icons lol. The Energizers and dead fish made the plan very clear. So 3 batteries with two in the rear? Just making sure I am looking right. How big of a gas tank will be back there? It's going to be a nice boat!

 

[ober51]

Love the icons lol. The Energizers and dead fish made the plan very clear. So 3 batteries with two in the rear? Just making sure I am looking right. How big of a gas tank will be back there? It's going to be a nice boat!

Stryker, thanks for the input. I havent decided on how many batteries simply because I would like some input on what I will need to power the lights, bilge, livewell, trolling motor. etc. I put one up in the front for weight distribution, and easier access to the front lights/motor (and maybe the livewell). Oh, and I think the gas tank is 6.5 gallons. Should be big enough, no? I actually haven't measured if it will fit, ha.

Like I said, this is tentative, and just trying to scrap some money together for the build. Looks like I will be sticking with the great deal I got on the Yamaha for now unless I get something that I can't pass up.

Definitely ripping the second to last seat out to open up the boat. I may even switch the whole side storage to the left of the boat in case I wanted to add a console with a bigger motor later (wishful thinking).

 

[ober51]

Ok, so I powerwashed and degreased today, after I flipper her over. I snapped some pictures, and boy is it ugly, lol. I need some advice on what to do with all the gunk.

A lot of the rivets leak, some with no gunk, some with a lot of gunk. My questions are as follows:

1. Should I scrape off all the gunk (seems like epoxy it's very hard) and put some JB Marine Weld in its place?
2. Should I just leave the gunk and Steel Flex over it?
3. Should I take off the gunk, redo the rivets?

Regardless of what I choose, I will be putting Steel Flex (it came today). I just need to know what do with the rivets.

As you can see from the pictures, the person that put in new rivets put in different ones - they have holes in them. I took a picture where you can see what I am talking about. What do I do there? Do I drill those (are they pop rivets?) out and put new ones in?

I would like to get this figured out by tomorrow, when I can start making some headway on the project, with sanding, putting some JB Weld in certain areas, etc. The keel is ugly, huge weld, but there's only a slow leak. I don't want to get it rewelded, it would probably be too expensive. Can I put some JB weld or just Steel Flex this portion?

Please help and thanks!!

 

[ober51]

Also, how would I know what type of rivets to use if I need to replace? I am guess I need close end, blind rivets? How will I know what length and diameter? Ugh, so daunting. Please, rivet masters, help a brotha out!

 

[ober51]

Nothing? ****. Ok well more JB Weld an Steel Flex it is, lol.

 

[russ010]

sorry no one has responded... and I didn't get online last night.

I would take off what I could of that goop around the rivets. Then i would buck those rivets (a block on one side, and then tap it on the other side with a hammer to tighten them up. If they do pop off, or break off, you can use standard rivets found at Lowes or HD to put back in their place. You can also use some aluminum epoxy to go over them - but that Steel Flex should do the trick. Just put your first coat on heavy on all of your rivets, then go over all of the bottom of the boat with it.

 

[ober51]

sorry no one has responded... and I didn't get online last night.

I would take off what I could of that goop around the rivets. Then i would buck those rivets (a block on one side, and then tap it on the other side with a hammer to tighten them up. If they do pop off, or break off, you can use standard rivets found at Lowes or HD to put back in their place. You can also use some aluminum epoxy to go over them - but that Steel Flex should do the trick. Just put your first coat on heavy on all of your rivets, then go over all of the bottom of the boat with it.

Thanks, Russ, I really appreciate it. What is the name of the "standard rivet" at Home depot/Lowes? It is close end blind? Not pop right? How will I know what length? Do I need rivet gun? Just not sure what to use or what size to get?

Thanks, again!

 

[russ010]

I personally don't think it matters what kind of rivet it is... to be honest, I wish Bassboy1 would read this because he knows more about rivet types and sizes than I do.

I don't even remember what I used, but I think it was 1/8"... I bought an assortment pack of rivets from Harbor Freight along with a rivet gun (yea, you'll need one if you replace rivets). Then I just put the rivet in till I was able to fill the hole and used to gun to tighten it up. I didn't have to replace rivets in my boat, I predrilled holes for piano hinges for storage compartments.

You might want to shoot an email to bassboy1 and get his opinion.. he may be in the class where he can respond right now

 

[ober51]

Finally was able to make some headway on the prep work. After doing my grandfather's yard work, I spent about 7 hours today sanding the outside. Took the bottom down to bare aluminum and the sides down to aluminum only where there were scratches that I wanted to get out. Tomorrow I work until 3, so Steel Flex will wait until Wednesday. Should be nice Thursday and Friday, too, so maybe I can get on some paint, we'll see.

I was hoping that the JB Weld Marine would be here by now so I could plug the drain hole, but nothing yet. I have stuck a cork in the hole almost to the end, then I will fill it up with the weld, and then Steel Flex over it.

 

[masterofillusion]

Hi I wanted to jump in here and tell you about these aluminum brazing rods you can buy at harbor freight. You can weld or seal all your rivets. Use a propane torch. The rods melt at 730 degrees without distorting the boat. I have seen aluminum cans welded with it. I tried it yesterday and it works great. several rods cost about 12.00 Good luck and pass the word around

 

[ober51]

The boat has been sanded down, sealed, and is waiting for Steel Flex. I will take some pics when done (since SF is not the easiest to work with)!