16' Monark Mod V Jon - The end of the Road - FOR SALE

[ober51]

Looooong day. 16 feet is a bit more than 14', especially when you add the width too. I was concerned there wouldn't be enough, but there was. Picasso I am not - but with this boat I want it to be sealed, so looks are secondary. Plus, I think it shows way less than the black. **** bugs keep dying in the SF, and a bit of pollen, but nothing major.

Tomorrow after work I need to get some glue remover - any suggestions? I don't want to sand before I do that. Sanding is basically done otherwise - and then it's on to priming. I have 2-3 bottles of self-etch primer in 15 oz. cans and bought a quart of Rustoleum bare metal primer for the other bigger areas. On top of that will go PreKote by Interlux, and then Brightside. Don't know much I will get done starting at 3pm, but I hope to get at least the self etch/bare metal primer on so I can paint on Friday. On second though, that Prekote should go on tomorrow if I want to paint Friday, so I will aim for that.

Ok, ok, pictures. The second one is a shot of where the worst part of the boat was. I really put a decent amount there seeing as it needed it. Also remember I am likely using Gluvit on the inside, so this boat should be watertight.

 

[russ010]

any particular reason your going to use Pre-Kote on top of the other primer you are putting on?

I might be mistaken, but I thought that Pre-Kote was mainly for wood and fiberglass applications. You should be fine with just the Rustoleum primer. Just remember multiple light/thin coats of each coat with light wet sanding in between each coat (for both primer and final coat)

 

[ober51]

any particular reason your going to use Pre-Kote on top of the other primer you are putting on?

I might be mistaken, but I thought that Pre-Kote was mainly for wood and fiberglass applications. You should be fine with just the Rustoleum primer. Just remember multiple light/thin coats of each coat with light wet sanding in between each coat (for both primer and final coat)

Russ, I was going to use it to give the Brightside an even nicer finish. I am going to call Interlux tomorrow and find out, since that's actually what the can says to do. I'd rather not use the PreKote since it will save time, but I want it to look good, you know?

 

[russ010]

It will look good with out it - trust me on that one!

I used cheap but good zinc chromate primer on my boat and put 2 good layers. I think used Pettit Easy Poxy (equivalent of Brightside) and it will still come out shining and looking awesome. You get the best look from the prep work - multiple light/thin coats (atleast 2, but preferably 3), and wetsand with like 250-300 grit sand paper. It won't seem like that paper is doing much, but you'd be amazed the difference if you didn't do it. That is where you get the best job.

Are you going to spray it or brush it on? either way, I recommend getting a brush or spray thinner to use. It will use your paint to the fullest and give you a lot more to work with.

 

[ober51]

It will look good with out it - trust me on that one!

I used cheap but good zinc chromate primer on my boat and put 2 good layers. I think used Pettit Easy Poxy (equivalent of Brightside) and it will still come out shining and looking awesome. You get the best look from the prep work - multiple light/thin coats (atleast 2, but preferably 3), and wetsand with like 250-300 grit sand paper. It won't seem like that paper is doing much, but you'd be amazed the difference if you didn't do it. That is where you get the best job.

Are you going to spray it or brush it on? either way, I recommend getting a brush or spray thinner to use. It will use your paint to the fullest and give you a lot more to work with.

Yeah I (dry) sanded in between top coats last time and it came out nice. I didn't do it between primer, but I guess I will this time. Also, I've never wet sanded, is it hard? Do I just get some water and dip and sand? I also am going to brush the paint on like last time without the thinner. Should I used thinner? I have a lot of the stuff (well, my dad does) laying around, I am just afraid I won't mix it right. Can I use any paint thinner? Or do I have to buy special stuff for Brightside?

 

[ober51]

Ok, well a good, but frustrating day for sure. There was a section of my boat that the Steel Flex just didn't dry/cure overnight. It turns out I didn't mix the stuff well - and time was not going to heal this wound. I had to spend about 2 hours taking off the stuff that was tacky, which was more than I care to show, but I will. I had to take a scraper and scrape it off, it was tacky and awful> I did that as best I could, then took acetone and rubbed the hell out of the side, trying to remove any stickiness and a decent base to reapply. I am going to sand a little tomorrow in the spots I can, and then pray that it works this time around. In fact, I may just test one area, not sure yet.

I was able to prime everything today (aside from the transom/stern, which needs one more coat tomorrow), not a big deal. I put 3 coats of primer, sanded in between each, and got it ready for tomorrow's top coat, Interlux Brightside. That would be rewarding, but not before I have to mix Steef Flex again and apply to that one section. This means that I am not going to be able to paint it all at once. I will have to paint the front and one side, wait until the Steel Flex almost cures, and then paint the other side. Not happy, but that's life. With rain coming in over the weekend, it looks as if I may one get one coat on for now.

Here are some pictures, and obviously, you can see the side that was such a PITA. I guess if I use Steel Flex again I should have it down pat - hey, 3 times the charm, right?! Ugh, lol.

 

[Stryker777]

Looks sharp Ober! Good job!

 

[Cheeseball]

Lookin good! Just remember... once you get through this part the fun starts!

 

[ober51]

Thanks, guys. I am just hoping to have enough funds to do the rest of the boat this year - decks and whatnot. With grad school and another year of school ahead, I may have to hold off. I think I am going to price everything out, literally everything, from the strong ties and wood to lights, etc. If it's over a set price, I just won't be able to do it. But I have the cosmetic stuff, so I am all set there.

The paint tomorrow should be nice - I am hoping it's going to pop a bit.

 

[russ010]

sorry I haven't responded sooner....

wetsanding is pretty much just getting a waterhose and keeping it running lightly over the area you are sanding, but you can get by just wetting your sand paper every minute or so

You don't have to use thinner... but since you are brushing it you would really do better with a "brushing" thinner. If you don't have it, don't worry bout getting it. Just put a good coat on by brushing and you'll be fine.

The primer job you did looks good - you're paint is going to be even better!

 

[ober51]

sorry I haven't responded sooner....

wetsanding is pretty much just getting a waterhose and keeping it running lightly over the area you are sanding, but you can get by just wetting your sand paper every minute or so

You don't have to use thinner... but since you are brushing it you would really do better with a "brushing" thinner. If you don't have it, don't worry bout getting it. Just put a good coat on by brushing and you'll be fine.

The primer job you did looks good - you're paint is going to be even better!

Thanks, Russ. I will have to just wait to wet sand, since it's too late now, haha. I bet it does make a difference, but if I've never done it, I'll never know :wink:

 

[ober51]

Ok, so I got about 3/5 of the first coat done. I have to wait until the other side with the Steel Flex is dry. That side is not very nice on the eyes, lol, but maybe with some paint it will shape up. Whatever though, this boat needed to be sealed, so it had to be done.

I like the color, but it's going to need about 3 coats of paint to really look nice. This means that with rain tomrorow, the next couple of coats will have to wait until next week. That's fine though, because I need to wait for another quart of Brightside Sapphire Blue to come in from JamestownDistributors.com I feel like a white pinstripe or design is going to look nice, or maybe have Mon Ark in white on the side, we'll see.

I figure I will use the left over of the Sapphire and the Steel Gray I had from my other project to paint the interior. I won't have to go that nuts with that since I will be modding that anyway.

EDIT: I was able to finish the first coat today, as the Steel Flex was dry enough to remove the painter's tape. This also means I mixed it well/ratio was correct, phew. By the way - taking a look at the pictures, FirstCoat4 is the most accurate color representation.

 

[ober51]

Took a few hours and put the second coat on. It looks as if 95% is covered. I think rather than doing a full third coat I just may lightly apply a spot coat. We'll see. Looks much better though, and gives a true representation of the color. Also cleaned up the lines with painter's tape, pics to come later.

 

[MikeA57]

That's looking GREAT Ober!! I just wish I could get past the problems I'm having with one of the wheels on my trailer so I could get my boat back on her. You're making great progress though - don't give up!

Mike

 

[ober51]

That's looking GREAT Ober!! I just wish I could get past the problems I'm having with one of the wheels on my trailer so I could get my boat back on her. You're making great progress though - don't give up!

Mike

Thanks, Mike. Here is the second coat. Like I mentioned, debating whether to put a third - any suggestions? Might be the smart thing to do. Jamestown delivered today, so next nice day it's either that, or start working on the transom replacement.

That reminds me - I was looking at the transom, and I am wondering how I will get one piece of plywood behind the bracket? How can I shimmy it back there without using two pieces? Is it bad to use two pieces?

 

[dyeguy1212]

I dont see any problem using two pieces... I've seen a lot of people do that

 

[ober51]

I almost forgot! I saw an ad on Craigslist for a 12' tri hull Starcraft and a 2002 Yammy 9.9 I asked how much for just the motor and he gave me a price I could live with - $800. Checking on NADA (I know it's just a number they give that is sometimes inaccurate) but it was well below that $1000-1200 they said it was worth. The only way I could even afford this was because I basically sold my 1989 8 HP Yammy for double what I paid. I only have a few hundred invested in a motor - so I am VERY happy. The motor hasn't even been used in 5 years except for maintenance. He told me he thought the motor has under 40 hours on it. I was skeptical but I went and took a look and I was convinced. He ran it for me, and boy I was sold. Couple that with the electric start, thruster model, and I was excited. Here are a couple pics. Did I get a good deal or was I/am I delusional, lol. I think it will look good on the boat. Oh, and I will have to build a jack plate or build up the transom I think. Haven't made official measurements, but it's a long shaft, and I believe my transom to be 15". So I will be looking at some good mods in that department.

Should I change the lower unit oil? Impeller? Etc? What maintenance should I do if any to this motor?

 

[Stryker777]

Very nice! That is going to move your rig around great. Hope to find something around that size myself. Great find Ober!

 

[Zum]

Nice find on the motor,I'd still check the compression but it looks very well cared for,doesn't look to have any scratches on it.
You should get a manual for it,find out the proper type oil for it and filter,change lower unit oil,prob.the impellor to.He had it running for you right,,,did he say he just changed the oil,was it pumping good?
Anyways sure does look nice.

I'd hold off on the painting till you fix the stern and possble build(up) or jack plate.

 

[ober51]

Nice find on the motor,I'd still check the compression but it looks very well cared for,doesn't look to have any scratches on it.
You should get a manual for it,find out the proper type oil for it and filter,change lower unit oil,prob.the impellor to.He had it running for you right,,,did he say he just changed the oil,was it pumping good?
Anyways sure does look nice.

I'd hold off on the painting till you fix the stern and possble build(up) or jack plate.

He did run it - but I was still wondering what I should change. I think I will change the lower oil. He gave me the owner's manual, so I know all the specs for the motor. He hasn't changed the lower unit oil in a while but he hasn't ran it in a while either - does that matter? And I didn't ask about the impeller. I have never changed even the lower oil or an impeller, so I am thinking I should get a service manual for this, even if it is simple. I shouldn't have to bring it in for service for something that simple no? And are there one time use seals that need to be replaced once I do all of this?

Definitely waiting on the paint inside until I build up the transom. Before I do that might it be better to just buy a jack plate? Maybe the mini jacker? Is a kicker bracket acceptable for a 9.9 motor? Or do I have to buy a jack plate?