1957 Evinrude 10 hp -- Won't start

[Piomarine]

A new carb kit did the trick! I pulled it disassembled it soaked all the parts in carb cleaner for an hour, blew it all out, reassembled and reinstalled it. Tried to fire it up and nothing...then I remembered to reconnect the fuel line, pumped the tank and fired first pull. It runs so much smoother now. I tried opening up the throttle the listen to it sing, but I got gunshy cause I don't know how high is too high to let it rev (that and I splashed all my water out of the barrel). It is still running a little rich (I think) at WOT but that may just take a large body of water and playing with the high speed adjustment.

The PO had done a rebuild but it seems that he tried to reuse some of the old parts with the new kit, or he had an incomplete carb kit. Whatever the case it is running well now and very smooth.

 

[Pappy]

Good deal......now you owe us a photo or two of the engine!

 

[Piomarine]

A deal is a deal! Now that I have it running well (thanks to Pappy) I feel good about doing a full restoration to make it a real looker! I freshened up the blue a while back but now I will be doing the white, black, decals, and emblems.

One question though, how high should I be revving the motor? I may have just been gunshy, but in the barrel when I opened it up it was revving really high and it made me nervous I was going to blow something.

 

[Kismet]

This is one of those threads that just makes me smile.

There are times when folks, and issues, and support just come together in exactly the right way.

Nice joint, this TinBoats place.

=D> =D> =D>

 

[Pappy]

Never go to the max in a test barrel. Too much air gets in the pump and ventilates the prop. You can over-rev pretty easy so your common sense was telling you correctly.
Reprotint has some excellent paint for what you are going to do. Check them out. Not cheap.....but good! Keep us in the loop as you go, would love to see the transformation on what is already a nice looking engine.

 

[Piomarine]

I also found this Canadian company ironically called https://www.nymarine.ca/ that does repro paint, decals, and medallions, and their paint prices are about 30% lower than reprotint. I am excited about finally restoring this gorgeous old motor! Unfortunately I just checked and the polychromatic blue I touched up the motor with before is the wrong shade from the wrong year. I was ignorant and shot it with what I know now to be 1963-68 pcb, so it looks like I'm painting the whole motor.

 

[Kismet]

I also found this Canadian company ironically called https://www.nymarine.ca/ that does repro paint, decals, and medallions, and their paint prices are about 30% lower than reprotint. I am excited about finally restoring this gorgeous old motor! Unfortunately I just checked and the polychromatic blue I touched up the motor with before is the wrong shade from the wrong year. I was ignorant and shot it with what I know now to be 1963-68 pcb, so it looks like I'm painting the whole motor.

Or,

you could just keep it YOUR secret and just do the black and white.

(Nobody here would tell on you.)

 

[Pappy]

That polychromatic blue is a gorgeous color.......
What I will say about Reprotint is that it seems to have less shine in it which would be more on the correct side. I will see the guys from Reprotint next month in Tavares. The show there is now the second largest in the US and is amazing. Sometimes I work the show and sometimes I relax and drool over the stunning wood boats there. This year Lesa and I will have her gorgeous 1953 Lyman in the show, we should have another vintage boat in the water there and I am scheduled to give a talk during the symposium on Saturday. No rest for the lazy darn it.

https://www.acbs-sunnyland.org/

 

[Piomarine]

Alright I give...I'll leave the blue alone...for now. Pappy, you commented yesterday on a thread about shaft length and it made me think about the shaft on my own motor. The shaft on mine measures 17" from the top of the clamp to the ventilation plate, and the boat has a true 15" transom. When mounted, the vent plate sits about 2 inches below the bottom of the stern. I have not yet had a chance to get the boat out and see how it rides, planes, etc., but do you anticipate this being an issue?

 

[Pappy]

On these engines it is not much of an issue. You can put a 1/2" or as much as a 3/4" shim between the top of the transom and the transom bracket though. That is common practice. Make sure your clamps are tight and you have enough room to do this. Always secure your engine with a rope as well.......just in case.

 

[Piomarine]

If it's not one thing with this boat and motor it's another...I took it to the lake today, put it tin the water, took it back out of the water, put the plug back in it, and put it back in the water. Cranked the motor and it started first pull, but I noticed the line was coming out really far before it would catch and turn the flywheel. So I started it (in gear by mistake) and quickly shut it down. Started it again but again the string was pulling really long. It struggled to start and I had to play with the choke to keep it lit and after less than a minute it died again. I tried again to start it and the pull string ran free and would not catch the flywheel. I didn't have the tools with me to attempt to fix it on site. I took it home pulled the string cap to look under it, and found that the center screw had come very loose. I tightened it back, up put the cap back on, and it pulls just fine now.

Should I put any thread lock on that screw to keep it from coming out again?

Also, should I just assume that the fact that it started rough the second time and wouldn't stay running is because it didn't get a solid string pull and may have been lightly flooded, or should I be concerned again?

 

[billyjoebigdaddy]

Sounds to me like you may have a stuck float needle.

 

[Pappy]

Pio - Wont hurt to have a drop of Loctite on the screw. Those are normally pretty bulletproof.
Also, before checking anything, run the engine again. Remember that the packing nuts will have to be tightened again as the new packings are probably compressed by now.
No two engines will start alike. Some require the choke be left on for a bit and some will not. You may need to re-set your mixtures and just get used to the starting quality. Let me know.

 

[Piomarine]

Third time's the charm! I ran the motor in a barrel and it worked fine, but I did need to readjust the carb settings. I took the traveler back to the lake today and it must not like lake water cause I put it in the water did everything exactly the same and got the same result as before. After playing with the choke (open, close, hold at half choke, open again, half choke again, etc.) and idling for about 5 minutes I closed the choke and it stayed running. Took it out and it ran great. I brought it back in, bailed some water, and when I went back out the motor fired right up and I went a little father out and really let the motor sing. Got the carb adjusted for WOT and it sang me an aria! the 10 hp struggled a bit to get me up on plane but I was also facing a lot of chop and a 20 mph wind.

My little boat saw the open water today for the first time in 32 years!

 

[Pappy]

.....And THAT'S a beautiful thing! ..........
Way to go on putting her back into service! Keep an eye on the gearcase oil for a few trips. Now we expect a video of it! And, more pictures.

 

[Kismet]

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D>​

Congratulations!

Hope I get my '56 10hp working at that level to take some matching pictures.


Well done, Sir.

 

[Piomarine]

Thank you! Pappy I am going to change the lower unit oil just because I don't know when it was last done. Should I use the Evinrude oil or can I get away with using say a Pennzoil 80W90 or equivalent lower unit oil (assuming it has emulsifiers added to it)?

 

[Pappy]

Read the label before using anything else.
The OMC lube clearly states that it can maintain full protection with up to 25% water. That is some pretty good stuff and a hard act to follow.

 

[Piomarine]

Alright just tell me what to get cause I've been looking at labels and descriptions all afternoon and they are all starting to sound the same. Do I need hypoid oil as is stamped on the dear case? Is hypoid oil even still sold? Which OMC oil do I need for my motor?

 

[Pappy]

HPF PRO is what I would recommend.