1972 Appleby Conversion (New photos 09/03/12) Advice needed!

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
First, the hack job of under the middle bench:

DSCN3150.jpg

DSCN3149.jpg

DSCN3148.jpg

DSCN3146.jpg
 
The port side of the middle bench has pulled away from the bottom rivet altogether:

DSCN3161.jpg


There are some cracks where the gussets are welded to the top of the gunwales:

DSCN3155.jpg

DSCN3153.jpg


Cut off the rear cleat, cutting through the rusted screws (there was also one on the inside of the gunwale new the bow, that I didn't snap a photo of):

DSCN3157.jpg
 
Now onto the questions, as I seek some insight from those more experienced than me!

- What is the best way to remove a rubberized coating (like that on the bottom of the hull)? Flap disk, wire cup, something else?

- Once everything is stripped away, should I fill the gap in between the keel and the hull with silicone as it was, or would I be better off filing it with 5200? (I'll be putting on steelflex).

- How should I go about fixed the cracks between the gussets/gunwales?

Thanks everyone!
 
Almost forgot another question: What would y'all do with that mess of a middle bench? I'm a bit worried about stability if I take it out... I was thinking of reenforcing the bench with some aluminum angle running under the lip of the bench and attached to the side walls of the boat. It's also come to mind though, that I'm not sure I like having to step over the bench. Perhaps if I removed it, and put in a low deck and added braces going from the deck to the side walls at an angle it would keep it stable?
 
Its looking good!

If you think yours is in bad shape you need to check out mine!

I have the google sketch up. It is okay but it is a little tricky sometimes. I would like to get something better.
 
So, a flap disk on the angle grinder got through the bed liner, and make quick work of the bondo covering the aluminum plate that was blind riveted on the bottom of the hull (starboard side). Figure I'm going to need 6-8 more disks to clear the bottom down to a nice clean bare aluminum hull.

I plan to seal up the patch, crack, and small crack in the chine up real good with some 5200, then a good coating of steelflex. Then I'll flip her over and start working on the inside, stripping paint, sealing bits and seams. Would it be worth putting some steelflex or something like gluv-it on the inside to add protection against leaking, or should the steelflex on the outside be enough do you think?
 

Latest posts

Top