1995 Sylvan Transom rebuild

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Use 3m 5200 to bond the patch to the transom or better yet get it welded.
 
I have now talked to two welders who say it's better off bonding it as it will be to tough to get the area as clean as it needs to be. Also there is no way to tell what aluminum they used so getting the alloy correct will be tough as well.
 
I thought you were gluing the wood into the transom, Did you talk to the welders about replacing the transom skin with a new piece of aluminum? It might cost a couple hundred bucks but it would be a lot better than a bunch of patches all over the back of the boat.

I glued the wood to the transom of my boat with the g-flex epoxy, there is no air space and the epoxy came out of the many holes that were in the transom skin so, I just sanded them smooth. My transom is solid, I am sure there are many out there though that would not have done that, so far I am glad I did, it is rock solid.
 
Awesome surf man!
I did indeed talk to two welders. There thoughts were it won't come clean enough to weld it real nice.
After talking to them and spit balling a bit I have a new plan of cutting a piece of aluminum the same size as the transom and placing it on the inside of the old skin. Similar to how you glued your transom in place.. I will bond and rivet it in place over the burnt out old piece. The only question is what I use to bond the two? 5200? Gluvit?
How did you like the g-flex? Is it similar to gluvit?
 
The g-flex is great stuff, the problem I see is that you have a large area to glue-up, I am not familiar with the Gluvit and have worked with the 5200. 5200 is great stuff too but is runny and may start setting before you get it all squeezed out of the tubes. It ain’t cheap either and neither is the g-flex but you can mix it up and trowel it on using a grooved trowel. Then you have some time, not much, to get the skin on and clamped into place. Be sure you have everything dry fitted first. The g-flex can be sanded smooth and painted, the 5200 is silicone and it doesn’t do that well. It is sold by West Marine.

One more thing, surface prep is the key to success in any paint or glue application, clean it all good with a detergent to get any grease or oil off then use the phosphoric acid to clean and etch the surfaces, a SS wire wheel or brush will also help etch the surface too.
 
I think I found a sheet of 5053 aluminum for a good price. I'm thinking of using marine-tex to bond the old and new aluminum for a couple reasons. it is a compound, has a 30 min working time, and can be used to fill the holes on outside of skin and sanded smooth.

Any thoughts?

I am almost done cleaning all the metal I'm prepping to clean it with phosphoric acid. I was also thinking of taking a pressure washer to the I side of the hull as well. Let me know what you all think, I will keep you posted.
 
I have only used marine tex for repairs of small holes and such in fiberglass, not sure how it would do in this application, not sure about the flexibility of the stuff. It does get rock hard. The g-flex is more flexible I believe.
 
5200 was another thought it's just I would like to "bondo" the old holes In the outer skin and if the silicone is I there I don't know how well it will take.

It seems that I would need a lot of gflex to cover the new skin..
 
I would cover it thoroughly, I would trowel it out onto the wood and the metal so that there is complete coverage, if you just spot it on then it will cause air pockets and possibly rot, also it will possibly allow the aluminum to separate from the wood where those huge holes are, then water would get in between the wood and the skin, that would not be good. IMO.

If you get the 32oz size you will only use about ½ of it. I had way more than I needed. It is 2 - 16oz cans of hardener and resin. It goes a long way, use a grooved trowel like a carpet glue trowel.
 
Right what I am struggling with now is what to trowel on?
I would like to fill the big holes once wood is in place with marine-tex.
 
If you look at my thread where I have the transom “all glued up” you can see the glue oozing out of the holes. I did not have wide gap clamps so I made some wood extensions that would allow the clams to put pressure in the center of the wood and skin. I covered the pieces that I thought might get stuck to the outside of the transom with plastic so that would not happen. The end result was a one piece solid system that may out last the boat. I don’t want to do this again.

You can just smooth over the glue that oozes out of the holes and you will not have to fill anything, it will already be done, just sand smooth.
 
They probably don’t want me posting other peoples web sites here so click fast or PM me and I will give you the link you need.

https://www.westmarine.com/--g-flex-650-epoxy--P09681511
 
Ok so I got the new aluminum, cut out the shape if the transom skin. Today my plan is to finish cleaning out the boat and aluminum real well and maybe gflexing and riveting it in place! Wish me luck
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1399825926.682484.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1399825940.914989.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1399825951.880790.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1399825967.297689.jpg

Gonna acid wash and power wash today. May even get time to clamp it we will see..
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400023508.842875.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1400023538.459053.jpg
This is what the clamp set up is like. This is just dry fit.
Around a few larger holes it's tough to get a tight fit. I was thinking of sandwiching them between 2 boards and sending screws through it.. Any thoughts ?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400023814.625683.jpg
 

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