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2015 Alumacraft MV 1546 DD build
- Thread starter chevyrulz
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I actually just scooped a carbon fiber TFO push pole off a local fishing forum for $200, it's 19'6" & amazingly light weight.
edit:
found a nice red in the grass with the new push pole, love this boat!
[youtube]mNte4ZDEyZw[/youtube]
I actually just scooped a carbon fiber TFO push pole off a local fishing forum for $200, it's 19'6" & amazingly light weight.
edit:
found a nice red in the grass with the new push pole, love this boat!
[youtube]mNte4ZDEyZw[/youtube]
Nice...would like to see more pics...in down position. I made my blind all one height which of course creates some overhang up front when in down position, not an issue other than lookin' a little funny. I didn't get fancy with attachment yet...has a rectangle EMT base which I then clamp in each corner with hand clamps. Worked last season pretty well.
added a few more straps to complete the EMT/bimini scissor blind. 1 man can put it up in seconds & it comes off the boat completely without leaving hardware or holes. all that's left is to attach the grass mats
here's the blind frame in up & down positions:dwbiggs said:
Catch Release Repeat
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I've got a Yamaha 25hp 4 stroke myself and its hands down the best motor I've ever owned. Had it going 29 mph while on a choppy day on Lake Erie. It pushes my 1648 at a consistent 26 a couple pins up to plane out fastest. That Rod holder idea is pure genious. I'll be stealing that one.
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g0nef1sshn
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Dang that looks good, I would need more green where I am. Winter in S Fl doesnt turn everything brown. But that looks good!
thanks, some folks spray paint the grass mats or use other brush to break things up a bit.
Decided against cutting the grass mats & making front/rear flaps...
ready to trailer or run down the river:
added thumb screws to the Bimini clamps:
grass mats just hang from the frame making for easy access over the gunwale with blind up:
used a heatgun and Phillips screwdriver to make holes for rivets, the nylon straps are repurposed from the boat cover:
plastic fencing used for backing on grass mats, helps 'em roll up & secure w/ bungee cords making it suitable for highways speeds:
1 of the 4 mounting points where the blind attaches to the boat:
cover still fits over the blind:
Decided against cutting the grass mats & making front/rear flaps...
ready to trailer or run down the river:
added thumb screws to the Bimini clamps:
grass mats just hang from the frame making for easy access over the gunwale with blind up:
used a heatgun and Phillips screwdriver to make holes for rivets, the nylon straps are repurposed from the boat cover:
plastic fencing used for backing on grass mats, helps 'em roll up & secure w/ bungee cords making it suitable for highways speeds:
1 of the 4 mounting points where the blind attaches to the boat:
cover still fits over the blind:
just picked up an LED light bar for the duck boat! it's a dual stack from Kohree, got the 9" that allegedly puts out 10,800 lumens. the top row of LEDs are flood, & the bottom row are spot & it has a 3 wire setup so the spot/flood can be controlled separately or turned on together. i paired it with a 3 position red backlit Rigid Industries switch & will wire 1 side to be flood lights & the other for flood+spot. i chose this particular light because of the mounting brackets & intended use. I will use it to illuminate my path duck hunting on the way to the hunting location before dawn, but also i want the flood lights to be able to turn on alone for flounder gigging. The mounting brackets slide so they can fit any existing holes, & i am going to mount it using the holes where my bow cleat is currently so i can avoid drilling new holes in the boat. the dual stack LED light is higher so it should cover more water for flounder gigging. Here's the parts & i will update once installed:
That thing looks ready to kill some ducks!!!
Got the light bar mounted, works great!
Ran the wire inside the gunwale just like the nav light then mounted my switch on the battery box, I can turn on the top row of flood lights alone or turn on the flood and spot together, I used a coax cable grommet where the wire goes out of the light through the deck for a clean looking install, and I didn't drill a single extra hole to mount the light because it uses 2 existing holes from where the bow cleat used to be;
Ran the wire inside the gunwale just like the nav light then mounted my switch on the battery box, I can turn on the top row of flood lights alone or turn on the flood and spot together, I used a coax cable grommet where the wire goes out of the light through the deck for a clean looking install, and I didn't drill a single extra hole to mount the light because it uses 2 existing holes from where the bow cleat used to be;
I'm wanting to do the same thing on my boat. I want to be able to use one or two light bars and then be able to face them down to gig flounder. It looks like the way you have yours mounted it wouldn't shine the water if tilted down? Wouldn't it need to be closer to the edge?
it's true my setup is more for navigating back creeks & timber swamps than gigging, but the way i mounted it using only 1 offset bracket instead of both mounting brackets, lets it rotate right, putting it much closer to the edge for stabbing flat fish :mrgreen:tyler0421 said:
Homemade tiller handle extension for $12:
Cut slits in the end of the PVC that will slip over the tiller handle throttle
Camo wrapped & ready to hunt! I cut about 6" off to make it clear the passenger and am still able to steer standing on the rear deck
Cut slits in the end of the PVC that will slip over the tiller handle throttle
Camo wrapped & ready to hunt! I cut about 6" off to make it clear the passenger and am still able to steer standing on the rear deck
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