'83 Bass Tracker Revival

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BYOB first thanks for the help in the last few days through PM. I posted a question about replacing the foam i cut out on the forums, thought you mite want to look at it. I think you said in one of your post that you weren't planning on replacing yours.
I got to talking to a couple guys about leaving mine out also but there thoughts got me to thinking about putting in on steep ramps. If you take on a lot of water putting in (or heaven forbid backing up to fast), there is going to be a lot of room for water since no foam to displace it and less foam to float the boat.
Just thought you mite want to watch that thread. I cut out about a foot back, so thats a lot of room for water to have to pump back out.
 
I just didn't want to have anything touching the wood transom. I think that really increased the amount of rotting that I saw on the original transom. I have it cut back a few inches, and I think I'll take my chances with the water. The deck isn't going to be open; I'm installing a vented gas tank, so the water won't be pouring in like if it was open. If I took on that much water at one time, I'd think it would be spilled over the deck back over the side of the boat or contained in the splash well.

Matt
 
After quite a bit of work and $$, I've managed to finish up the rear end of the boat. I've installed the fuel tank, battery boxes and battery charger, plumbed the livewell, and secured the livewell and bilge pump. I glued down some cutting board plastic and screwed the blige pump to it. I riveted on some more plastic and screwed the battery charger to it, in an effort to isolate it from the aluminum. I also made a second attempt at the transom, since the first one delaminated a little bit when I had to put the boat outside for a few days. The second transom is sealed with several coats of spar varnish. The transom is ready to be screwed back together, and I'll tackle that this week. Here are some photos of the finished product.

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Looks good man. I do have a question about the transom though, is that plywood or 4 seperate boards pieced together?
 
Impressive work my friend. Thx for the aweome pics of you reconstruction of the transom in particular.

The rear gas tank, etc.....the white...is that steelflex paint too just to give it a clean/ease to see or am I missing something?
 
Ictalurus said:
Looks good man. I do have a question about the transom though, is that plywood or 4 seperate boards pieced together?


They are boards. They are actually called "Project Panels" and they are high-grade sanded 1-bys that are used for furniture making. I bought two 16"x60"ers and laminated them together with waterproof glue. I stapled and screwed it together. Once the glue was dry, I removed the screws and cut out the shape. Three coats of spar varnish later, and it was ready to install. Everything came from Lowe's.
 
gatorglockman said:
Impressive work my friend. Thx for the aweome pics of you reconstruction of the transom in particular.

The rear gas tank, etc.....the white...is that steelflex paint too just to give it a clean/ease to see or am I missing something?


You're not missing anything, but after doing the bottom in steelflex, there was no way I was going struggle with that stuff in the tight corners of the bilge. I gave the whole area a couple of coats of aluminum primer, followed with a couple of coats of white epoxy. I figured white would be best so that it was easy to see inside in low light, etc. So far it seems perfect, and I plan to paint the other compartments that are not getting carpet white as well.
 
Ictalurus said:
BYOB

Are the top and bottom transom boards connected somehow?


I'm not sure what you mean by top and bottom transom boards. I purchased two 16" by 60" panels. They are made of edge glued 1 bys to obtain the 16" width. I glued the two 16" by 60" panels together before cutting to the shape needed.
 
Thanks for the clarification, it looked like four boards that have been glued together. From your description it is sounding more like two boards glued together. If the case were four boards, I'd be leaning towards the idea of starting over with plywood.
 
Well, as I mentioned above, each project panel is made of three boards that are edge glued to get a 16" width. I glued two project panels together to obtain a 1-3/4" thickness. Then I cut out the shape. When it is installed, there will be 40 screws and 22 bolts holding it to the boat, so the chance of it coming apart are about as good as me re-doing it for a third time! :LOL2: :LOL2:

Matt
 
I have been able to get the transom all fixed up, and I have an appointment after labor day to get it welded back together. I've also installed the tow hooks, and cut the hole for the battery charger plug access hole. I purchased the plug holder too, but I hope to paint the boat first. Hope I can get it painted before it gets too cold.

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I was able to reach a mile stone today! The transom has been welded back together, and the bow eye has been repaired. Honestly, sometimes I thought I would never be able to get it back together, but there are just a couple of small things to put back together, and it will be ready for paint!

Unfortunatly, I found a few problems with my trailer. Since the trailer isn't titled, registered and doesn't have lights, I put the bass tracker on my smaller jon boat trailer. While it was out getting welded, I flipped the bass tracker trailer on it's side against a tree and found the rear cross member is nearly rusted out. I don't think it will support the weight of the boat and motor, especially when I put on the transom saver. I'm going to have to get it cut out and replaced. I know a few more people that can weld regular steel, so hopefully it isn't going to be as big a deal as it was to have the aluminum transom welded up, but the angled "V" bend worries me. I've included a few pics of the transom and the trailer damage. Would it be easier to replace all the cross memebers with straight ones, with no "V" shape?

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Glad to know you finished it BYOB, there are alot of others on here that don't quite know the pain it is to put a transom in these tracker boats! Tracker sure was not thinking about an "afterlife"!
 
Thanks mmf, it was a pain, but I think that if a person has the right tools, they shouldn't be afraid of doing it. I was reading another forum when doing a search on 1983 trackers, and the guy had a chance to pick one up for a good price. everybody was telling him not to buy it, do a test drive, check out the transom, old boats leak, etc. in my opinion, everything thats wrong with it can be fixed with a little bit of work and help from tinboats members. If anything, the more things that are wrong with the boat, the better price youll pay to buy it. My goal is to have a like-new tracker for less than half the price .
Don't be afraid to do some work to make it better.
 
I would thoroughly check the rest of the trailer before deciding to fix it. My 88 tracker trailer was junk, alot of it was rotted like yours. Some you couldn't tell till I poked it with a screwdriver. I couldn't believe I made it home with the boat when I dug into the trailer. You maybe better off to replace the trailer all together.
 
Everything else looks pretty good. I poked around with the screwdriver and the other parts sounded solid with no flexing. I think one of the biggest problems was the transom saver bracket that was drilled into it. That area is the weakest part. This repair may justify buying that welder I want!
 
Hello everone I'm new to the site and so far it's great lots of info.I'm in the prosses of rebuilding a 1986 basstracker tournment tx 17'. Already did the floor and side panels and glassed the crack's in the console.Next project I dred is the transom getting the old one out doesnt seem to be that big a deal.My question is the rivets that run thru. I don't have the right rivet gun or know where to get the rivets that they used could these be replaced with stanless bolts with lock nuts.I thank they would be just as strong if not stronger.Please let me know what y'all thank any info will be greatly appreciated thanks.
 
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