Robby said:could these be replaced with stanless bolts with lock nuts.I thank they would be just as strong if not stronger.Please let me know what y'all thank any info will be greatly appreciated thanks.
tsohg76 said:Wow, I just stumbled on this boat. And I would love to get my hands on this for a rebuild, what a great project. Besides id love to have that boat.
BYOB Fishing said:Robby said:could these be replaced with stanless bolts with lock nuts.I thank they would be just as strong if not stronger.Please let me know what y'all thank any info will be greatly appreciated thanks.
Hi Robby, welcome to Tinboats!
You can use stainless hardware. Beware, though, of using bolts in place of all of the rivets. The section of the transom cap that I had to cut and remove in order to get access to the wood didn't match up correctly when I re-installed it. When I drilled the holes through the new wood using the existing holes in the aluminum hull and transom cap as a guide, the hole's centerline wasn't perpendicular to the aluminum (even though it matched up with both the boat hull and the transom cap), so that once the bolt was installed, the head was at too much of an angle to keep from leaking, much less look nice. I removed the wood and re-fit the transom cap to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong, but it still didn't fit right. I made a new wood transom and used 3/4" lag screws in the problem holes (probably 1/2 of the holes on the transom), mainly just to cover up the existing holes, and drilled some new holes perpendicular to the surface for my bolts. I sealed it up with silicone and used a washer between the bolt head and the aluminum skin. It looks good and is water tight.
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Matt
Jim down under said:Ripper job mate she's sure looking good. A quick few questions for you. As i only have slow connection and have to use my phone i could not load all your pics i was wondering how much stress your new welds will be put under? If there will be a fair bit of stress and are not simply to use just stick the aloy back over your sweet timber job is there any peno you can see? As in the welds should have a nice line on the back side of the weld that is even and consistent almost like a skinny bead of elastic or silicon?
It was $60-$65 I think.Jim down under said:I like your thinking done by the pros. You would not want the ass torn off of your boat because you got a back yard job done by talkers not welders. I guess it dose not matter what it looks like as long as it don't fail. You are doing such a nice neet job on every thing else it would have been nice to see them take a page out of your book for you. May i ask what sort of $ they charge for some thing like that to be welded?
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