At Cottage - Evinrude 70773S stopped working

[acolic]

One thing for sure you don't mind jumping into something. You may have jumped way into this one much farther than you needed to.

Probably. I am just eager to get it working for next weekend.


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[nccatfisher]

Unless you work on it full time I seriously doubt that happening.

 

[acolic]

Can I use a liquid RTV gasket in place of a OEM gasket to mate the power head to the lower unit.

Local dealer says it will take a week to get the OEM one.

Just wondering about options.


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[Pappy]

The answer is no on the gasket.
Find your part number and look on Ebay.
This is a forum where we tend to promote the "Do it once and do it right" way vs. - Never have time to do it right but always have time to do it twice philosophy :roll:
But.......
Before you jump into this thing lets see the piston sides and the cylinder wall sides. OKAY?

 

[acolic]

Okay.

Just waiting for the 5/16 12 pt socket to show up from amazon.

Could not find anything locally.


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[Pappy]

Waiting on a socket prevents you from photos we can use to help you? Specifically...the socket is a special tool from OMC however Snap-On used to make a comparable socket. There is your answer on the socket.
I do not care if the piston is still in the cylinder and attached to the crank. You are asking for help in this forum from folks who know a bit more about these engines than you. Tell you what....you look at my profile and I will look at yours. One of us can help the other in this scenario.
Looking back over this thread I have asked you several questions and made a couple of requests....almost none of which you have answered or complied with.
I am more than willing to help but you seem Hell bent on going your own way pretty much without a clue as to what you are doing.
Will give you another chance to give us information and pics or .... I am done with this issue.

 

[acolic]

This has to be the first time someone has pulled the “my profile is bigger then your profile” card.

Obviously I’m not a small engine repair expert otherwise I wouldn’t be asking questions.

Although when it comes to automotive engine repair and mechanical engineering in general I’d say my education and background makes me a tad more than average.

But I’m not going to play the who has more experience then the other game. There is always someone on the other side of the hill who know more.

But this is a long weekend and I hope everyone is relaxed, hanging out and enjoying their day.

I was waiting for the 5/16th socket because my manual indicates you didn’t need a special tool to remove the connecting rod bolts, a socket would work.

In the mean time please see a number of pictures of the #2 cylinder from multiple angles. If they are not clear, sorry I’m just using an iPhone. Let me know and I will retake.

Thanks again for the help.

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[acolic]

Hi

Socket showed up and I took the piston out.

Looks like on one side the piston rings fused to the piston?

What would cause that?

The rings broke as I took the off.

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[nccatfisher]

I am gonna go with a lean mixture on that carb. Not sure if Pappy is going to chime in or not, if he does I will bet he will have seen it before and probably have a more precise or in depth diagnosis. Heat, was an issue.

 

[acolic]

I am gonna go with a lean mixture on that carb. Not sure if Pappy is going to chime in or not, if he does I will bet he will have seen it before and probably have a more precise or in depth diagnosis. Heat, was an issue.

Thanks appreciate it.

Very interesting I would have thought with it being a 2 stroke and the piston and connecting rod being immersed in fuel / oil heat would have been less of a concern.

The price of a new piston looks to be pretty high making repairing the engine uneconomical.


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[RaisedByWolves]

I am gonna go with a lean mixture on that carb. Not sure if Pappy is going to chime in or not, if he does I will bet he will have seen it before and probably have a more precise or in depth diagnosis. Heat, was an issue.

Pappy tried his best and I wouldnt be surprised if he simply bails on this thread at this point.

OP, he could have saved you a lot of time and trouble, well I think many of us could have with just a simple pic of the pickup on the cylinder wall.

3-4 days wasted in finding out for yourself what you were asking us to figure out for you. :lol:

 

[acolic]

I am gonna go with a lean mixture on that carb. Not sure if Pappy is going to chime in or not, if he does I will bet he will have seen it before and probably have a more precise or in depth diagnosis. Heat, was an issue.

Pappy tried his best and I wouldnt be surprised if he simply bails on this thread at this point.

OP, he could have saved you a lot of time and trouble, well I think many of us could have with just a simple pic of the pickup on the cylinder wall.

3-4 days wasted in finding out for yourself what you were asking us to figure out for you. :lol:

I don’t get the issue of waiting until I could take a proper picture but if me waiting to do that is causing issues then I am sorry about that.

Even if Pappy has told me what the issue was I would have wanted to take the piston out. I don’t learn by people telling me what the solution is, I like to see it.

Anyway, happy Labor Day to everyone.


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[acolic]

Good day folks.

I took your advice and picked up a used powerhead.

I replaced the thermostat, cylinder head gasket etc and popped it on and it works great.

I did a compression test and I got 125, 125 and 150.

I know they don’t publish compression specs but they are not within 10%.

Either the top two cylinders are low or the borrow one is high.

Just wondering what you think.

Thanks

Alex


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[GYPSY400]

Run it for a bit and retest it.. it might be oil settled in the bottom cylinder or a bad test guage. If the motor runs good I wouldn't loose sleep over it

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[kofkorn]

The bottom sounds high. They might have reached 150 when new, but of all of the motors I've worked on, 125 is pretty normal. 135 is a good motor. I haven't seen 150 on Johnny rude.

Good luck.

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[acolic]

Hi,

I didn’t like how the cylinder head looked so I took it off and put it in the parts washer for a few days. Came out really good.

I put it all back together and I cannot get it to rotate. In the disassembly and assembly I must have missed something.

This is what I know:

Battery is freshly charged.
Multimeter says that I have 12.75 volts from the battery to the starter solenoid.
I checked the connectivity of all the wires in case there was a break all look good.
When I start the engine all that happens is the carbs open up for a sec and that’s it.
I changed the starter with a known good starter no change.
If I take the (+) from the battery and apply it to the starter the engine turns over.
The motor is in neutral the prop spins freely.
I bought a new solenoid and reattached everything no change.
I cleaned all the washers, bolts etc to make sure I had a good connection.
It does not look like the solenoid is being switched to open up the connection from one end of the solenoid to the other to allow power to go to the starter.
I have the solenoid wired like this:
(+) from battery to one end of the solenoid.
(+) from one end of the solenoid to the starter.
At the (s) lug on the solenoid I have the yellow wire that is coming from the main wiring loom. I think it is the signal from the key to open up the connection.
Nothing at the (I) lug of the solenoid.

Any ideas what I missed or can test?

Appreciate the help.

Alex


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[acolic]

Forgot to add.

With the key turned there is no continuity between one end of the solenoid and the other.

I tried wiring the yellow wire from the main wiring loom to the ‘I’ lug on the solenoid no change.

Question: how do you test to make sure the yellow signal wire is doing what it is supposed to do?

Thanks a lot for the help.


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[CedarRiverScooter]

In picture, it looks like the ground wire isn't hooked up.

 

[kofkorn]

It sounds like you might be missing the ground on the solenoid. The solenoid needs 4 wires connected.

+ From battery to large post on solenoid
+ To starter on other solenoid post
Yellow and red ignition wire to one small post on solenoid
Black ground wire on other small postb on solenoid

The small posts are just a basic coil that activates the solenoid. It needs connection to ground. Some solenoids have the ground connection built through the chassis of the solenoid, but not these. They need a ground connection to the second post.

Make sure your starter ground (starter chassis) and battery ground connections are good too.

Good luck

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[acolic]

Hi

Thanks.

I installed the factory ground and it did not make a difference. I had sanded the connections and cleaned them up.

I figure the ground solution sounded right so I created my own ground cable and attached it to the same post as the ground cable.

Worked perfectly.

Thanks for sorting me out.

Alex


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