Congratulations. Those tri-hulls were very popular in my younger days. Probably among the most common fiberglass boat hulls out on the lakes back in the 80's. That is going to be very stable.
Any idea on what that boat might weigh?
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Congratulations. Those tri-hulls were very popular in my younger days. Probably among the most common fiberglass boat hulls out on the lakes back in the 80's. That is going to be very stable.
Any idea on what that boat might weigh?
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Very nice!
LaqueRatt
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Thanks for the tip. Think maybe we flooded it. The PO wasn't really a boat person.
LaqueRatt
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No, but I'm curious as well. Maybe it's just balanced right, but I can move it around by hand without much more effort than the MirroCraft. Not thrilled with the "cathedral" hull, but it should be good for fishing I think. It's got a big whale tail on the back and I've been told that helped a lot for making it behave at WOT.
thill
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Check Nadaguides.com Click the detailed list of boat manufacturers and select your model. Should give LBS in the Spec sheet
Looks a lot bigger than 15' thanks to the hull shape/design.
thill
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That is a very reasonable weight for a fiberglass boat. Enjoy!
My Merc 150 you push it in to prime. It's not really a "choke" per se, it's a primer and simply pours fuel into the throttle bodies. With my motor I push and hold the primer for about 12 seconds before cranking.
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Bet she weighs more now, over years of soaking up water in the wood and foam, wouldn't be surprised to see an extra couple hundred on there. Good luck with her...!!
With my 60/45 Merc I pressurize the fuel bulb and then open the throttle a little and start to crank and push in the primer. I don't hold the primer very long, definitely not 12 seconds but that's what makes starting used motors so much fun, you have to figure out exactly what that particular motor likes to get it fired and running. You can also buy some starting fluid, pull the plugs and spray some in and then it should fire over easy, you just need to know where to throttle it to keep it running until it warms a little. I think I flood my motor at least once every year.
LaqueRatt
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Seems a lot bigger inside too. Surprisingly so. Due to the wide bow I guess.
**** rain today is scuttling my plans to try to crank her up. Thanks for the starting tips. I have one more really dumb question. The handle when pushed forward throttles it up and puts in in forward I'm guessing. There is a square button that says Throttle Only. How does that work? Neither I or the last owner really knows how to start it. His method seems to be to just crank it until it catches.
**** rain today is scuttling my plans to try to crank her up. Thanks for the starting tips. I have one more really dumb question. The handle when pushed forward throttles it up and puts in in forward I'm guessing. There is a square button that says Throttle Only. How does that work? Neither I or the last owner really knows how to start it. His method seems to be to just crank it until it catches.
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You push in that square throttle button and push the lever forward to give it throttle without engaging the motor into gear. I give it a little throttle, crank it and push the primer, then when it pops over be ready to give it a little more throttle if it sounds like it wants to stall. Then, if it revs a little too much, back off the throttle while keeping it running for a minute or 2 before going back to neutral with the throttle.
thill
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Most primer solenoids are only valves that rely on fuel pump pressure or squeeze bulb pressure to inject the fuel.
So holding it in for a long time usually doesn't make much difference until you start cranking the engine, unless you have the line really pressurized, in which case it might flood.
So holding it in for a long time usually doesn't make much difference until you start cranking the engine, unless you have the line really pressurized, in which case it might flood.
thill
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As stated above, the typical steps to start an older 2-stroke engine are as follows:
- Make sure the fuel line is connected and the tank is full of fresh, mixed fuel, 50:1 ratio
- Squeeze the primer bulb until firm but not crazy hard
- Press the "throttle only" button and push the throttle handle forward just a little
- Turn the key while pressing in to crank the engine and prime it at the same time
- Once it starts be ready to back off the throttle as they can rev up very quickly
- If it starts, then wants to die, push the key in for a second or 2 at a time to keep it going
- If the engine will only run with you pressing the key, it probably needs the carburetors cleaned. But at least you get it running!
MrGiggles
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Seems like inflation and stuff has created a seller's market for good used items of any sort. Trucks, boats, appliances, building materials, furniture, you name it. Seems like anything fairly priced is gone very quickly.
I suspect the popularity of flipping has a lot to do with it as well.
I suspect the popularity of flipping has a lot to do with it as well.
COVID also promoted higher demand for things like boats and RVs.
MDCrappie
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From the pic it appears to be an early to mid 80's which I'm pretty sure had a choke, not a primer.
lightflyer1
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Still some good deals on broken stuff. I just bought and repaired a 2007 Tahoe with a bent pushrod for $3k. If you are handy. It is my boat hauler and third car.
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The main rule I learned when buying boats and cars is to always wait and look at your options every day. You can spend a lot of time searching for what you need, but at some point such a diamond will appear. It has always been this way and always will be. And the main thing is to always be ready to go and pick it up.
