Demo"ing" Boat floor mod 22 years later

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crooked2x4

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
7
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Location
Springfield, MO
First, this site is great, on the other hand, I think my boat project has taken on a life of it's own.

I was searching for marine grade plywood and stumbled into this site, and have been reading about projects instead of moving forward on mine, I keep telling myself research is good.

My boat is a Starcraft SF-14-L, a 3 bench utility boat, in 1988 after seeing my kids slipping around the edge of the boat while trying to look at fish in the shallows, I decided to put in a floor, in the spring of 1989 I started and finished the project in about 10 days. I used 1 1/2"x1 1/2" X3/16" aluminum angle attached to the floor ribs with 3/4" galvanized hex-head screws, on top of those I laid 1 1/2"x1 1/2"x1/8" square aluminum tubes, these where placed 8" on center. I used 2 1/4" self tapping galvanized screws to attach the square tubing to the angle. I used 5/8" marine grade plywood for the floor attaching it with 1 1/4" stainless steel screws, at the time I remember thinking about oxidation and corrosion, but in the back of my mind I was thinking in 5-10 years I would be rebuilding the floor again. I carpeted the floor with gray outdoor carpet from Fleet Farm "cheap" and glued it down with Henry's adhesive.
About 3 years ago the carpet started to show signs of releasing from the plywood I tacked down an edge here and there until this year when I found a weak spot in the plywood I blame the feral cats that found their way under the cover last winter. While fishing at Woman Lake in Minnesota the weak spot broke though. Of course we kept fishing, but I started expanding the project I had in mind for replacing the carpet.

Well that's how I got to this site, looking for plywood, and general information about redoing the floor in the boat. While I was demo"ing" the floor I took some pictures with my phone. I'm planning to change the framing based on some of the things that I've learned from this site.

I noticed that the galvanized screws that were in contact with the marine grade plywood corroded more than those that were in contact with the aluminum, also in my case the aluminum tubing showed some white areas where the marine plywood and the aluminum touched but this appeared to be something that had leached from the plywood and collected
on the surface of the aluminum.

The demo went fairly easily, I was able to remove most of the screws with my cordless screw gun, a few screwheads were stripped, and a few others just broke off, but a large pipe wrench on the tubing worked wonders. :D

"The Plan" for now is to get the bottom in and try to be back out fishing in October, I heard that some the lakes in Missouri will be a good place to fish at that time.

Removed the pics that weren't very good
The "Weak Spot" :oops:
This is the old framing.
Front end
 
Haha, I'm the same as you, stumbled onto the site looking for something else, and never stopped reading, only its been 2 years since I've gotten anything else done... Welcome :D
 
I find it very interesting that the galvanized bolts did not corrode the aluminum like many on here say it will. How often was the boat in the water? Was there any pitting or white powder where the 3/4" bolts went through the ribs?

BTW: I can only hope we all get 22 years out of our mods!
 
How often was the boat in the water?

:( Not as much as I wanted to be, but between myself, my boys and my nephews the boat saw more lakes than I did, I have to admit that it didn't get treated as good as some boats do. After ruining several covers I started taking the cover off in the spring and putting it in the rafters until fall. Some times in the early spring snow and ice collected in it, mostly because I thought winter was over. :oops: [-X

This boat never saw salt water either, clear water, muddy water but no salt water.

I found no etching from the screws, but I did find a small amount on the aluminum tubing that I used to frame the floor, it appears to be from what had leached out of the plywood.

I did decide to remove all of the 2 1/4" screws because the heads on many showed a reaction to the plywood, I thought it was cheap to pull all the 2 1/4" screws and replace them with SS screws.

I hadn't planned to remove any of the 3/4" galvanized screws as they appeared fine, but since you asked the question I pulled the rearmost angle off, this angle was the most exposed to the elements of all the angles attached to the ribs, and your question got me curious.

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I wanted to add a note here.
I been reading more about electrolysis (the reaction of dissimilar metals) and decided that the only reason I didn't have corrosion from the use of galvanized screws and aluminum is circumstance(conditions maybe), maybe dumb luck. I woke up one morning and pulled all the galvanized screws and replaced them with SS about a $10.00 expense. Now everything is aluminum rivets or SS screws or bolts.
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left side of angle
left side small.JPG

right side
RIght side small.JPG

Left side of rib with angle removed and cleaned with hand brush
I swept the dirt off that had accumulated under the angle
left holes clean small.JPG

Right side same rib
right holes small.JPG

Galvanized Self tapping screws
screws small.JPG
 
Thanks for the pics. I have aluminum angle attached by running galvanized bolts through the floor ribs. I was tempted to rip up my floor and replace it with stainless hardware (corrosion paranoia) but it looks to me like the bolts might not harm the boat after all. Keep us posted on your progress and good luck with your project.
 
Very nice post and WELCOME to the TinBoats family! :beer:

You say you are going to fish some Missouri lakes...does that mean you are from Missouri? You can add that to your profile so we can see it.......please :wink:

There's quite a few of us from Missouri.....I'm hoping next year I can organize a get together. [-o<
 
Demo done, almost all the existing framing was pulled out and I decided to replace all the galvanized screws with SS. Today I received the four pedestal stands I ordered from Grizzlyjig, I still haven't decided on seats so if you have any recommendations, I'm all ears.

I decided to remove the middle bench.

01_Setting up to mod center bench.jpg

I had cut the existing bench into a split bench when I put the
first floor in now I used a saws-all to cut those into supports

03_Setting up to mod center bench.jpg

I intend to pop rivet everything together when the plywood is in place

08_Setting up to mod center bench.jpg

I finished framing the floor and installed 2x8 (3 coat spar urethane) to reinforce
the pedestal seats.

10_Setting up to mod center bench.jpg

Did you ever have one of those days where you just decided to change your mind.
I found a local sheet metal shop that has excellent pricing to aluminum sheet, especially
if you can find what you need in their cutoff bins. So the 2x8 pieces went into the garage for future
use and I changed the framing to handle the aluminum sheet material.

13_where did the wood go.jpg

I've been framing a deck in the front and working out an idea on repairing the front bracket,
as well as adding aluminum behind it to mount the trolling motor. I'm going to use a similar idea
as this picture I found in the picture gallery. I printed the pic out as a reference.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/images/albums/userpics/img_0601.jpg

Here's what I'm trying to refurbish, it will probably stretch JB Weld to
it's limits

11_Change to front.jpg

I need to order seats soon or I won"t be out on the lake in October :(
 
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I wanted to add a note here.
I've been reading about electrolysis (the reaction of dissimilar metals) and decided that the only reason I didn't have corrosion from the use of galvanized screws and aluminum is circumstance(conditions maybe), maybe dumb luck. I woke up one morning and pulled all the galvanized screws and replaced them with SS about a $10.00 expense. Now everything is aluminum rivets or SS screws or bolts.

Also added to original post
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