everything steelflex

[Henry Hefner]

So are there any tricks to applying it around the ribs, top rail, etc?

It's like spreading honey. For the tight spots, I used cheap paintbrushes. You want stiff, short bristles. I kept tweezers handy for the occasional hair that comes out of the brush and sticks in the steelflex. Apply it too thick, and it WILL run, after it is too set up for you too fix, so remember to use thin coats on any surface that is not horizontal.

 

[Troutman3000]

Use the 4inch foam rollers - it applies much better and no streaks.

 

[SaltyBuckster]

Can one of you Steel Flex proffesionals take a look at mt project pics on the last page and see if I need to do anything else to be ready for my Steel Flex when it gets here this coming week?Thanks in advance.
azslabber

 

[SaltyBuckster]

I really want to do this right the first time.I went over the bare aluminum today with 80 grit and got it all.Just would like to know if anyone knows the best grit sandpaper to use the for best results.Thanks.

 

[Brine]

I really want to do this right the first time.I went over the bare aluminum today with 80 grit and got it all.Just would like to know if anyone knows the best grit sandpaper to use the for best results.Thanks.

The 80 grit will work just fine. The steelflex will have no problems grabbing hold. Once you've exposed bare aluminum, it will start to oxidize, so make sure to apply the steelflex sooner rather than later. Ideally, I would apply the steelflex immediately after sanding/wiping down.

 

[SaltyBuckster]

Thanks ! I'll sand it again really quick when it gets here.Once the paint is off it sands pretty easy,lol.

 

[FishyItch]

Boy, you guys are crazy about your steelflex around here, but it seems like this whole thread is just application. What about the purpose? By reading it seems like it's just a super-sealant. Are there any other advantages besides sealing up those leaky rivets 'til doomsday?

I have a 1448 v-hull, and yeah there are a few leaky rivets, but this steelflex thing seems like a lot of work. What about just some JB weld or silicone touch-ups on the inside? Of course, I guess if you deck the boat permanently how do you do touch-ups on the inside?

When I deck my boat in the spring I'm going to try to make the flat floor pieces removable partly for maintenance and partly to keep track of leaky rivets. I think what I'm going to do in the spring is deck and paint the boat like I had planned and just seal up the few leaky rivets from the inside. If the need becomes apparent maybe I'll apply the steelflex a season from now. (Of course, then I'd probably have to pull off the transom again. Hmm.)

Thoughts? Are having even a few small leaks a problem after you deck a boat? Even if I make the floor pieces removable and seal up all of the wood? Is this steelflex stuff completely necessary? I only had the boat out twice last year and that was the first season in about 6, so I feel like I want to wait a season before I deal with this stuff. Or if I'm doing the mod this spring should I just go for it now?

 

[SaltyBuckster]

They put the Steel Flex on the bottoms of Air Boats,makes them really slick.That and the sealing qualities sold me.I don't have any leaky rivits on my tin,but then again it is pretty new to me.Don't want any after I finally get to do some fishing.I did a lot of reading before I finally gave in.

 

[FishyItch]

Yeah, right now I'm pretty skeptical as to the need. I'm also going to be on a budget once I start my mod.

 

[Brine]

I fish 99% electric only and don't get to power load the boat. Having the steelflex on the bottom should also help with loading and unloading.

I don't want my boat leaking a drop. Just me.

Also, and once again...... Steelflex shouldn't be used to stop leaks that already exist in my opinion. The leak should be fixed by other means first. I like the idea of it being a preventative measure though and providing a slick bottom.

 

[FishyItch]

So it's a slick bottom. Does it reduce any drag? Any noticeable speed increase?

 

[Brine]

So it's a slick bottom. Does it reduce any drag? Any noticeable speed increase?

Yes, slick is an understatement. I'm sure it reduces some drag; however, as far as a speed increase.... I would think it would be minimal for most rigs, especially for me whose top speed is going to be around 4.5 - 5 mph. The ones that notice are probably the airboat guys as they run across vegetation.

 

[thad.]

I'm still on the fence about it, myself.

 

[Nussy]

I've done 2 boats now with it. It's pretty nice stuff and really not that expensive. About $65/gallon, but you don't need primer, etc. I've used the super slick and the regular stuff. I actually like the regular stuff better. I used it because I wanted to make sure my boats were water tight and ensure no future problems. It doesn't look as good as paint but the purpose is to seal the boat up better. I also think it gives a little better protection to the hull.

 

[tripleup05]

Whew! What a nasty, sticky, terrible ordeal applying that stuff was. I didn't expect it to be easy, but dang!

I have a few more runs on the vertical sufaces than I can live with. Can I simply sand the runs down even with the surrounding area and apply another thin coat to blend it?

 

[levron41]

I received a "Free" 14ft Meyer from a buddy that was supposed to have no leaks. I think every rivet on the bottom of the boat leaks. I have been re-bucking the rivets, covering them with a small amount of JB weld on outside and planning on putting some 3m 5200 on the inside. My plan is to sand the JB down a little and apply steelflex. I sent the check in today for a gallon!!!

Here is my delima. I talked to Jerry at Fasco about applying steelflex when the temperature was below 70. He basically said, "it never gets that cold here so I dont know if it will work." Its pretty cold here in Indiana. The temp is around 40 on good days. We are going to have some 60 degree days here soon. I want to apply the steelflex.

Should I? Does it just take longer to cure and set up really fast in cold weather? Should I just apply a little at a time? Or should I just wait? This is my last step before my mod begins so I'm very impatient at this point.

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions!!

 

[Brine]

You need a garage with a heater if you want to do it that soon. If I had my way, I'd want it 75+ degrees if I ever do it again.

 

[Henry Hefner]

You need a garage with a heater if you want to do it that soon. If I had my way, I'd want it 75+ degrees if I ever do it again.

+1

 

[Troutman3000]

The stuff is like sludge if you do not get it up to at least 70 degrees. It becomes almost impossible to work with and the curing process will take forever.

 

[devilmutt]

Wait for 70*