Troutman3000
Well-known member
sixshootertexan said:
Two coats are better than one.
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Two coats are better than one.
Troutman3000
Well-known member
Also hate to admit this but on my current boat I had some leaky rivets that I rebucked several times that would eventually loosed over time. I did a little research and bought some stuff called Alcoa Gutter Sealent. It useds primarily on aluminum gutters. I applied it to all my leaky rivets on the outside of the boat beaucse I have decided the boat is in such bad shape that its not worth refinishing. Well I was impressed after taking the boat out because all the leaks had stopped around the rivets. The stuff actually dries a metallic color so it doesnt look bad either.
One I put it back on the trailor all the seals were still in place even after hitting some rough waters. It seems like it should last a while a took about 25% of a tube that costs 13 dollars.
One I put it back on the trailor all the seals were still in place even after hitting some rough waters. It seems like it should last a while a took about 25% of a tube that costs 13 dollars.
Howard
Well-known member
I have done the research and have a can of Gluv-it in the garage. I plan to use it but for a different application. No doubt this is a good product and will seal leaks. For me, when it comes to water penetration I will look for the best permanent solution. I guess after my battles with water penetration, industrial, commercially and residential, my experience tells me to attack the problem from the outside in and not the inside out. At times my thinking is not economical or practical but it normally is a one time fix.
cactusjack
Well-known member
Adding tint? I have read this entire thread and noticed a few people mention you can add whatever tint color you may want from Home deport or the like. Does anybody know how much would need to be added and are the tints used at the big box retailors compatible with the steelflex? Do they use different tints for different paints or are they all the same. Thanks in advance for any info
Troutman3000
Well-known member
Howard said:
Agreed.
cactusjack
Well-known member
cactusjack said:
To answer my own question and for others I went by HD and Lowes yesterday and asked about adding their tint to the steelflex, both places advised it was a no-go and advised me I would have to go to a marine shop that dealt with paints. Has anypne ever had tint added at HD or Lowes? I may try Ace Hardware since they seem to be a bit more personable.
cactusjack said:
Fasco (the maker's off) advised me that any paint store could add colorant. I'm wondering if HD was simply playing it safe. I wouldn't think that colorant would be rated for marine use or not, but.... I don't know.
Pops14
Active member
Fasco has there own pigments. I chose white and am just waiting till I have enough time to apply it.
cactusjack
Well-known member
Brine,
Hd was probably playing it safe, or maybe I need to try it another day when a different person is there. You would think it wouldnt matter. Ijust wanted more of choice then the 5 or so colors fasco offers
Hd was probably playing it safe, or maybe I need to try it another day when a different person is there. You would think it wouldnt matter. Ijust wanted more of choice then the 5 or so colors fasco offers
sixshootertexan
Well-known member
I did my boat today. Taking the info that I have read here on Tinboats I think it went fairly well. The only thing I have to complain about is how much I wasted on the first coat. Using Dixie cups to dip out each component and placing in a mixing container I lost some of the Steelfex. The stuff being so thick it's hard to get it off the cup. When I started the second coat I had room to put the cup inside the can until I needed to mix the next batch saving the wasted amount that was left to run off the cup onto the newspapers I had under everything.
I put on a thin first coat and used four of the foam rollers. I applied a thicker second coat and used only 1 roller. I also found that mixing a larger amount was better for me. First coat I mixed 10oz and the second coat I mixed 16oz. One other thing was I put the neutral in the mixing container first on the first coat and it covered up the measuring line on the container making it hard to see how much of the clear I was pouring in.
Thanks for all the good info everyone has contributed to this forum.
I put on a thin first coat and used four of the foam rollers. I applied a thicker second coat and used only 1 roller. I also found that mixing a larger amount was better for me. First coat I mixed 10oz and the second coat I mixed 16oz. One other thing was I put the neutral in the mixing container first on the first coat and it covered up the measuring line on the container making it hard to see how much of the clear I was pouring in.
Thanks for all the good info everyone has contributed to this forum.
dave shady
Well-known member
Is it safe to use "PLASTIC" bun glide sliks with a steel flexed hull not to mention a rivited hull?
I got them from Bass Pro called EZ-Slide Trailer pads, I had them on my old boat but
it was an all welded boat and not coating on the bottom.
Appreciate info as im ready to put them on the trailer but not sure if its a good idea or not.
This is the type but the ends of the bunks have ENDERS - like a cap to protect
I got them from Bass Pro called EZ-Slide Trailer pads, I had them on my old boat but
it was an all welded boat and not coating on the bottom.
Appreciate info as im ready to put them on the trailer but not sure if its a good idea or not.
This is the type but the ends of the bunks have ENDERS - like a cap to protect
Bugpac
Well-known member
Steelflex comes in natural, I don't think it is clear. And i would think the steel flex would slide on the plastic ok.
dave shady said:
I wouldn't. At least not yet. Not because of the steelflex, but because of the riveted hull. Just asking for problems IMO. Most of the slicks I've seen have a warning on them about not using them with a riveted hull and given the layout of those you pictured, I can see why. If you have a set of rivets that will be bumping the edge of each slick, I would think it could eventually damage/loosen the rivet.
The steelflex should make the boat trailer just fine without needing the slicks. If I'm wrong, just take the slicks with you one day while you're at the lake and put them on. I would wait till you realize you need them though.
ohiolunker
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Just spoke with Jerry and Janet at Fasco to put in a order today. Class act customer service. Went out of their way to make sure they answered any questions I might have and told me to call any time if I needed help. I told them I heard about their product online and they immediately asked if I was on tinboats. Apparently they get a decent amount of business from this site. I have to say, based on my experience so far I would gladly recommend this company to anyone.
Mojo^
Well-known member
I just spent a good hour reading through 11 pages of posts and I want to make sure I'm reading this correctly.
I have a 1442 jon boat so I will probably need 2 gallons of steelflex to cover the entire boat inside and out. Correct? Can steelflex by used like a final paint top coat over Gluvit?
I have a 1442 jon boat so I will probably need 2 gallons of steelflex to cover the entire boat inside and out. Correct? Can steelflex by used like a final paint top coat over Gluvit?
ohiolunker
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Not sure about Gluvit question, but I just ordered 2 gallons to do my entire 12 footer inside and out. I'm figuring on having extra when I'm done. I would definitely recommend calling and talking with Jerry @ Fasco. He seems like a good guy and will point you in the right direction.Mojo^ said:
