Front Deck Build

[pbw]

Okay Progress. Finished cutting decking for today.

Before Screwing it down need the following...

Wiring (unsure where to purchase this (probably car audio store) think I'm going to run 4 gauge to trolling motor, and 10 to fish finder, then 10 to lights. I can't decided where to put wiring controls and fuses.

Foam may wait till spring its not going to be warm enough.

Need to box in my storage boxes.

 

[Waterwings]

Nice! We go out to the garage to have a cigarette (don't smoke in the house anymore), and it's a bit chilly out there! Makes you smoke quicker, lol. Come warm weather, the boat goes back in the garage

 

[Waterwings]

Okay Progress. Finished cutting decking for today.

Before Screwing it down need the following...

Wiring (unsure where to purchase this (probably car audio store) think I'm going to run 4 gauge to trolling motor, and 10 to fish finder, then 10 to lights. I can't decided where to put wiring controls and fuses.

Foam may wait till spring its not going to be warm enough.

Need to box in my storage boxes.

Not quite sure, but I think you could use 6 gage wire to the tm. I'm sure someone on here can add their input just to be sure.

 

[bassboy1]

6 should get you plenty. Many times, the factory lead, going to the plug on the TM is 8 gauge. Unless the run is a real long one, 6 shouldn't kill ya. As far as wiring, you could have picked it up at Lowes when you went yesterday. They sell it by the foot there (and, their pricing is usually better than HD on bulk wire). 6 gauge wire is 6 gauge wire, no matter what application it is used for. You will need a large crimper. We usually borrow the ones from dads shop. You might be able to get by with a large pair of lineman's pliers, but don't hold me on that. Or, you could get all screw connectors, and do away with the crimper all together. As far as where to put controls, and fuses, the controls should be where you plan to be the most. In the past, we have put all our fuses right before the unit. But, in our next build, we will probably have a fuse box, with all the fuses in one central location. If you have a set location for your battery, I would place all the switches near there, or you have a lot of extra wiring, and therefor current loss. No need for the wiring to go from the battery in the bow, to the stern control box, back to the bow lights, or vica versa. If you don't have a set place for the battery, the location of the control panel will determine battery placement. I have heard that getting a piece of plexiglass, and painting the backside black, then mounting all your switches in it, makes a great looking fuse panel.

 

[pbw]

My wiring concern is should I run one big wire to the front, then break it out to run my tm and fish finder. I don't want to cause any noise on the fish finder wiring.

 

[pbw]

Okay back on the plywood thickness topic. Some discussions with Waterwings on 3/8 plywood versus 3/4 plywood on weight. I now have two sets of front decking cut from plywood. The weight of 3/4 plywood decking is 47 pounds, weight of 3/8 is 18 pounds.

This morning I went out to my local small lake to see how both would work on the water. I wanted to ensure the boat wouldn't sit to low in the water.

Photos below are with 3/4 inch plywood decking. It felt really stable.

Now with me standing on the boat

Photos below are with 3/8 plywood decking. I could tell the boat had less weight, it was stable but I felt 3/4 seemed more stable maybe due to just having more weight.

Now with me standing on the boat

Now time for the videos I've got them on youtube linked below

3/4 plywood decking test - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSNjMavhjOI

3/8 plywood decking test- (i get on the rear decking which is crazy heavy in this video!)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYnXMhBb3xI

Thoughts? I'm going to work on attaching the decking after I hear comments...I'm thinking 3/8 right now.

 

[alumacraftjoe]

If I were you I'd go with the 3/8 inch. Once you get your gear trolling motor, batteries, even another person, you will appreciate not having so much weight in the decking. You did a great job with the support so I don't think you will have any issues with the 3/8. Just my 2 cents so take it for what it's worth...

 

[Jim]

I agree with Joe! Man that looks good pbw! I hope you took a couple of quick casts while out there? :wink:

 

[pbw]

I agree with Joe! Man that looks good pbw! I hope you took a couple of quick casts while out there? :wink:

Nope I didn't take a rod/reel

 

[bassboy1]

From those videos, it seems you stepped a lot more gingerly on the 3/4.

Now, looking at that video, with the 3/8s, your stern is heavier. Now, seeing as the bow deck is larger, when you put the 3/4 in, it balanced out that heavy stern. Now, where were you planning on putting your batteries, what kind of trolling motors do you have (bow, or transom or both) and are you planning to put an outboard on?
If much of your weight is in the bow (batteries, trolling motors, you etc) I would go with 3/8. If you are planning on an outboard (in which you will be driving from the stern) you will probably want the 3/4s, unless you have a lot of weight up in the bow, that you don't during the test.
Trying to get a stern heavy boat, with a mediocre amount of power, to plane, isn't easy. For example, if I had stick steering in my 12 footer, (so I would be in the bow) so that more weight would be forward, I am fairly confident that my 4 deluxe would plane it. Right now, my top speed is a fair amount faster than the hull speed of my boat, but the bow is out of the water, and I don't have enough stern lift.

 

[pbw]

From those videos, it seems you stepped a lot more gingerly on the 3/4.

Now, looking at that video, with the 3/8s, your stern is heavier. Now, seeing as the bow deck is larger, when you put the 3/4 in, it balanced out that heavy stern. Now, where were you planning on putting your batteries, what kind of trolling motors do you have (bow, or transom or both) and are you planning to put an outboard on?
If much of your weight is in the bow (batteries, trolling motors, you etc) I would go with 3/8. If you are planning on an outboard (in which you will be driving from the stern) you will probably want the 3/4s, unless you have a lot of weight up in the bow, that you don't during the test.
Trying to get a stern heavy boat, with a mediocre amount of power, to plane, isn't easy. For example, if I had stick steering in my 12 footer, (so I would be in the bow) so that more weight would be forward, I am fairly confident that my 4 deluxe would plane it. Right now, my top speed is a fair amount faster than the hull speed of my boat, but the bow is out of the water, and I don't have enough stern lift.

Yes some yah000 was trying out his canoe and I'm going to guess he has never seen or used one ever! He gave up after a few minutes then I did the 3/8 test....

TM is bow mount. Battery was in the boat. I'm going to mount another battery maybe in the front too..

 

[bassboy1]

With 2 batteries, and a bow mount troller, I would stick with the 3/8s. If in the future, you get an outboard, you can work out the details then.

 

[pbw]

With 2 batteries, and a bow mount troller, I would stick with the 3/8s. If in the future, you get an outboard, you can work out the details then.

The outboard is coming in summer, ~9 hp honda or yamaha

 

[Waterwings]

Looks great!

Did the boat feel more stable in a side-to-side motion using the 3/4" or the 3/8"? The reason I ask, is because the 3/4" is heavier than the 3/8, plus the deck (especially on the front) is above the waterline, so you have more weight in the side-to-side movement. The higher up you go with weight above the waterline, the more side-to-side motion you'll have as you increase height (as when sitting in a pedastal seat as an example). In ship building/design it's called the Righting Arm/Moment.

As mentioned above, you still have to add the weight of gear and the carpet (carpet won't be much weight, but it's additional weight above the waterline). An additional battery mid-ships on centerline would add somewhat to a lower center of gravity and posssibly bring the bow down some for the trim fore & aft.

If the 3/4 & 3/8 pieces are identical in size (width/length), I'd mount the 3/8, pull it off and then use it as a template for drilling screw holes in the 3/4. Clamp them together before drilling. Then you'll have two thicknesses of decking (with identical screw holes) to use if one proves to be better than the other (stability-wise).

As a recommnedation, whether you use the 3/8 or 3/4, I'd get some fender washers to put under the deck where your seat mounts will bolt on, and use Ny-lock nuts. Once the seats are mounted, take the boat, gear, & your wife or someone else back to the lake and do another float/stability test to see how it rides. I think it's turned-out great and you're gonna have some good fishing times with it.

 

[Nickk]

it looks great so far, it's going to be great! I'd say go with the 3/8 if it feels good underfoot since you'll undoubtedly be adding weight with gear and motors(anchor?).

Those vids didn't end the way most would on YouTube :lol:

 

[Popeye]

Personally o would go with the thicker 3/4". You are only looking at 29lbs difference and the durability of the thicker plywood would make me go that way.

 

[Waterwings]

pbw,

Good thing you did your test yesterday! It's currently 34* here, winds still clipping pretty good, and snow showers predicted for tomorrow! :shock:

I'm ready for Spring now!!!!

 

[pbw]

it looks great so far, it's going to be great! I'd say go with the 3/8 if it feels good underfoot since you'll undoubtedly be adding weight with gear and motors(anchor?).

Those vids didn't end the way most would on YouTube :lol:

If you look in the photos I have an anchor mounted in the rear.

Yea I'm glad I didn't pull a Bill Dance and go in the drink...

 

[pbw]

Looks great!

Did the boat feel more stable in a side-to-side motion using the 3/4" or the 3/8"? The reason I ask, is because the 3/4" is heavier than the 3/8, plus the deck (especially on the front) is above the waterline, so you have more weight in the side-to-side movement. The higher up you go with weight above the waterline, the more side-to-side motion you'll have as you increase height (as when sitting in a pedastal seat as an example). In ship building/design it's called the Righting Arm/Moment.

As mentioned above, you still have to add the weight of gear and the carpet (carpet won't be much weight, but it's additional weight above the waterline). An additional battery mid-ships on centerline would add somewhat to a lower center of gravity and posssibly bring the bow down some for the trim fore & aft.

If the 3/4 & 3/8 pieces are identical in size (width/length), I'd mount the 3/8, pull it off and then use it as a template for drilling screw holes in the 3/4. Clamp them together before drilling. Then you'll have two thicknesses of decking (with identical screw holes) to use if one proves to be better than the other (stability-wise).

As a recommnedation, whether you use the 3/8 or 3/4, I'd get some fender washers to put under the deck where your seat mounts will bolt on, and use Ny-lock nuts. Once the seats are mounted, take the boat, gear, & your wife or someone else back to the lake and do another float/stability test to see how it rides. I think it's turned-out great and you're gonna have some good fishing times with it.

I didn't really notice a difference in stableness (is this a word?) in 3/4 or 3/8.

Fender washers check! Good thought.

The front deck is awesome, the previous front deck was junk. I guess next winter or fall I'm going to tear out the heavy rear deck..

 

[pbw]

pbw,

Good thing you did your test yesterday! It's currently 34* here, winds still clipping pretty good, and snow showers predicted for tomorrow! :shock:

I'm ready for Spring now!!!!

Its freezing here in Louisville and spiting snow!

I'm currently painting the soon to be baby's room. One more coat and I'm done for today and going to work on the boat. :?