I knew things were going to good /1992 2 stroke 40hp Yamaha

[Douglasdzaster]

Basically a dial indicator on a mount is secured somewhere where the indcator is in contact with the prop shaft. Zero the gauge and rotate the prop shaft while the lower unit itself is fixed/stationary and record the max and min changes on the gauge (aka runout). There is a spec for the allowable in the service manual which is prob pretty standard across manufacturers and HP ranges. Best way to lock it all down for a basic shade treee mechanic is probably to remove lower and put skeg in a vise and attach the magnetic indicator arm to the vise itself. All that said, personally i'd pressure test first and if good not worry about checking the prop shaft.

Again I cant recommend the mityvac tool enough. Great for outboard lowers and you can use it as intended to bleed brakes on your vehicles by yourself

Looking at the mityvac different ones. Do I need to get one that specifically says vac/pressure or is there a way to use the vacuum I one that just talks about bleeding brakes , power steering etc. ?
I don’t know much about how vacuum pumps operate never used one. Always did things the hard way.
I appreciate your help?

 

[airshot]

If your boat is on a trailer, check with some small local machine shops, they can check it for you in a matter of minutes and they have the tools. I worked at small shops all my life ( retired toolmaker) and we frequently did what we called local jobs to help the farmers and others when they were in a pinch. Most will help you out just to give back to the community..

 

[MrGiggles]

Looking at the mityvac different ones. Do I need to get one that specifically says vac/pressure or is there a way to use the vacuum I one that just talks about bleeding brakes , power steering etc. ?
I don’t know much about how vacuum pumps operate never used one. Always did things the hard way.
I appreciate your help?

You will want one that does pressure and vacuum, many of them only do vacuum. I have a cheap one from Ebay that works quite well.

Testing with pressure allows you to find the leak using soapy water and looking for bubbles around suspect seals. Vacuum testing will only tell if you there is a leak, and is no help for actually finding it.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If your boat is on a trailer, check with some small local machine shops, they can check it for you in a matter of minutes and they have the tools. I worked at small shops all my life ( retired toolmaker) and we frequently did what we called local jobs to help the farmers and others when they were in a pinch. Most will help you out just to give back to the community..

I just may do that. When a bolt twisted off in the head I found a guy that rebuilds old cars and hot rods. He just so happen to have retired from being a machinist.

When I pulled the boat up there and saw his shop and what all he was working on I was ready to get told/ask why are you bringing a boat here?
He stayed after closing that evening and I watch him take time and patience removing that bolt from the power head.
I think it’s time I went and checked to see how he’s doing.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Everything happens at once sometimes. That’s life and we just have to deal with it. I’ve green putting off doing the brakes on my truck. Now I have to before I damage anything else. And I’m upgrading the pads and rotors so I’m about to drop some bills. That’s me doing the work.

I have fresh gear lube in the lower unit and need to take it to the little lake close by and blow out all the un burnt fuel from idling to much with to much 2cycle oil in the mix. Since the gear lube I drained didn’t look that bad. And I’m not sure that water dripping off the unit wasn’t what I saw.
I’m going to kill two birds with one stone.
Take and run it and spend a little time fishing giving the lower unit time to cool in the water since that’s when it’ll pull water in through the seals.
Then after getting it home give it time to settle then pull the drain plug to check for water making sure there’s no water that’s going to drip in the pan this time.
If I see a hint of water I’m pulling the lower unit buying an affordable pressure tester and check all three places at the same time. Then I’ve seen several videos on pulling the old seals without special tools. The only cons to this method is being extremely careful not to scratch or nick the prop shaft etc.
If it’s the one under the water pump I haven’t found any way that doesn’t use a puller.
But I’m still looking.
I’d like to go ahead and do all three while I’m at it since the outboard is 31 years old and I don’t know if they’ve ever been done. I should be able to tell by looking. I hope anyway.
The seals are affordable it’s the tools I’m trying not to have to buy.

I know owning a boat means a lot of maintenance and especially one as old as mine to expect repairs.
I can be budget minded on accessories. But this is the first time I’m trying to get off cheap on a repair. Every part I’ve installed on it is OEM done with the best material I can find. Like I said the OEM seals are inexpensive.
So far nothing I’ve done to it has failed me. Except when I first started I bought aftermarket connectors on the fuel line to save money and learned then and there. They’re all Yamaha now and I noticed the quality difference as soon as I unpacked them.
Does anyone here have experience changing these seals without special pullers etc ?

 

[MrGiggles]

You should be able to replace every shaft seal in that lower unit without pulling it apart. Drilling a small hole in the seal and using a screw to pry on usually works the best.

 

[wmk0002]

If you want to save a buck but still get quality stuff on the brake parts go buy from rockauto.com. I buy everything from them unless I specifically want to get the lifetime warranty stuff by Duralast from Autozone. I've even heard you can buy lifefetime warranty pads from Autozone and they will exchange them for free when they wear out lol.

Also, this would be the perfect time to get the mity-vac or equivalent tool and while doing your brake pads and rotors do a complete flush of your brake fluid. Will help you justify the cost of it and then you have it to pressure test your lower unit.

 

[airshot]

If you want to cleanout your outboard from all the carbon buildup, use Seafoam...that is what it is made for !! Add to fuel, then run engine and spray into carb until engine stalls. Let it set at least 15 minutes. Then with a heavy dose added to the fuel, fire it up again but be prepared for a smoke fest !! It will look like the whole neighborhood is on fire !! It is burning up the carbon deposites rhat were dissolved by the seafoam. Done this many times, just be prepared if your neighbors call the fire dept !!
As far as AutoZone brake pads go, yes they do have lifetime pad replacement if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long period of tiime. They are twice the cost, so you need to plan on a long time to get you moneies worth. I had a Blazer for 6 years, it was totaled in a crash, replaced it with another Blazer, same year. Had that one for 8 years, bought the lifetime pads, never bought another set in all those years....but...you do need to return the old wornout pads for a new set, they don' t just hand them out and yes, the reciept as well.

 

[wmk0002]

If you want to cleanout your outboard from all the carbon buildup, use Seafoam...that is what it is made for !! Add to fuel, then run engine and spray into carb until engine stalls. Let it set at least 15 minutes. Then with a heavy dose added to the fuel, fire it up again but be prepared for a smoke fest !! It will look like the whole neighborhood is on fire !! It is burning up the carbon deposites rhat were dissolved by the seafoam. Done this many times, just be prepared if your neighbors call the fire dept !!
As far as AutoZone brake pads go, yes they do have lifetime pad replacement if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long period of tiime. They are twice the cost, so you need to plan on a long time to get you moneies worth. I had a Blazer for 6 years, it was totaled in a crash, replaced it with another Blazer, same year. Had that one for 8 years, bought the lifetime pads, never bought another set in all those years....but...you do need to return the old wornout pads for a new set, they don' t just hand them out and yes, the reciept as well.

I may have to try that. I'm the second owner of my 2005 Silverado, which currently sits at 167,000 miles. Had it since 2012 or 2013 and honestly plan to drive it until it drops. I need to do a brake job sooner than later too.....as well as replace a few items in the front suspension system.

 

[MrGiggles]

I may have to try that. I'm the second owner of my 2005 Silverado, which currently sits at 167,000 miles. Had it since 2012 or 2013 and honestly plan to drive it until it drops. I need to do a brake job sooner than later too.....as well as replace a few items in the front suspension system.

I just sold my 06 last year that had 310,000 miles on it. It was on it's second transmission, second rear diff, and it needed a transfer case when I sold it, pump rubbed through the case and it was leaking. Many front end rebuilds. The motor was hanging in there, tired but still dependable, acquired an appetite for oil. Still a dang good truck, one of the last good ones from GM.

I have never been a fan of those lifetime warranty parts, had many people boast to me about how they've just taken whatever part off and swapped it out for a new one so many times, glossing over the fact that they have to replace that junk every year. Just buy the good stuff and be done with it for a while, your time is valuable.

 

[Kismet]

I just sold my 06 last year that had 310,000 miles on it. It was on it's second transmission, second rear diff, and it needed a transfer case when I sold it, pump rubbed through the case and it was leaking. Many front end rebuilds. The motor was hanging in there, tired but still dependable, acquired an appetite for oil. Still a dang good truck, one of the last good ones from GM.

I have never been a fan of those lifetime warranty parts, had many people boast to me about how they've just taken whatever part off and swapped it out for a new one so many times, glossing over how they have to replace that junk every year. Just buy the good stuff and be done with it for a while, your time is valuable.

I've been online for quite a few years, but I can't remember many occasions when so many forum members came forth and offered excellent advice and warnings about a repair. Neither can I recall when the initial questioner has been so courteous and prompt in his findings , after trying the repair techniques.

Congratulations to all participants! This is a classy joint!

 

[Douglasdzaster]

You should be able to replace every shaft seal in that lower unit without pulling it apart. Drilling a small hole in the seal and using a screw to pry on usually works the best.

Thank you .After several videos I decided that if I can be careful with other delicate work I’ve done I should be able to use the screw method without damaging anything.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If you want to save a buck but still get quality stuff on the brake parts go buy from rockauto.com. I buy everything from them unless I specifically want to get the lifetime warranty stuff by Duralast from Autozone. I've even heard you can buy lifefetime warranty pads from Autozone and they will exchange them for free when they wear out lol.

Also, this would be the perfect time to get the mity-vac or equivalent tool and while doing your brake pads and rotors do a complete flush of your brake fluid. Will help you justify the cost of it and then you have it to pressure test your lower unit.

Thanks for the advice I appreciate it a lot. I’ve been sufferIng from a reoccurring health issues this week so I’ve missed a few days on here. After a lot of shopping I ended up going with Summit Racing. They beat everyone by almost a hundred bucks. Never heard of a lifetime warranty on brakes. I sure would have looked at them but I done pulled the trigger.
Sometimes I need to stop quick when I’m aaaaa testing the turbos and other toys on my truck. Lol
I may be 57 but my two favorite toys are my old boat and my 2016 truck. They both get me in a squeeze every now and then though when they both demand attention at the same time.
I’m upgrading my brakes to Power Stop z36. The drilled and slotted rotors will look awesome with the custom wheels on my shadow black F150 Ecoboost. Plus they dissipate heat quickly for when I have to really step on them. My wife waits until the last minute to brake and these should hold up when ever she drives it. I replaced 3 sets of rotors on her last car. The last set was Power Stop and they held up. They’re actually overkill since I don’t often tow or haul a lot of weight but there are times I do and it’s heavy soil for the garden about 50 miles.
I appreciate the advice about flushing the brake system but the dealership just replaced the master cylinder and flushed the brakes on recall.
But my Mightyvac will be here Sunday.
Brake kit will be here Monday. Figured I’d get that done then take the boat to the lake and run the sludge out of it. Bass fish a little to let the lower unit cool off. I figure that’s when it’ll suck water in.
Take it home let it rest for about an hour then pull the plug and look for water.
Water or not I’ll go ahead and pressure test it.

How much pressure should I use and how long should it hold it?

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If you want to cleanout your outboard from all the carbon buildup, use Seafoam...that is what it is made for !! Add to fuel, then run engine and spray into carb until engine stalls. Let it set at least 15 minutes. Then with a heavy dose added to the fuel, fire it up again but be prepared for a smoke fest !! It will look like the whole neighborhood is on fire !! It is burning up the carbon deposites rhat were dissolved by the seafoam. Done this many times, just be prepared if your neighbors call the fire dept !!
As far as AutoZone brake pads go, yes they do have lifetime pad replacement if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long period of tiime. They are twice the cost, so you need to plan on a long time to get you moneies worth. I had a Blazer for 6 years, it was totaled in a crash, replaced it with another Blazer, same year. Had that one for 8 years, bought the lifetime pads, never bought another set in all those years....but...you do need to return the old wornout pads for a new set, they don' t just hand them out and yes, the reciept as well.

Thanks airshot. I appreciate the brake pad advice but I have warped rotors as well. My truck has some upgrades and the brakes need to be upgraded as well. I have a brake kit coming for all four wheels from Power Stop.

The last time I tried decarbing I had a can of CRC marine engine tune and decarbonizer. I found a spot off the main lake and was in the reeds. Fallowing directions I had it warmed up and started spraying it each of the three carburetors and when it would bog I would give it a little gas to keep it running.
Supposed to use he whole can but after about half I looked around and all I could see was smoke EVERYWHERE! I thought man I’m going to get into trouble out here. Luckily it was during the week and the lake wasn’t crowded. But after idling my way out of the cloud of smoke I took off and ran to the other end of the lake.
After a bit I thought I’d better go back Incase someone was concerned what happened I was going to confess.
Nobody there but the reeds where still full of smoke with a big floom in the air. There was no wind that day. I wasn’t far from the power plant intake.
I can laugh about it now. I could tell a small difference in the engine but I hadn’t finished it.

When using Seafoam should I run on muffs? If in a barrel I’d be circulating all that gunk through the cooling system I think.
Ive seen the spray cans and bottles of Seafoam together is that what you’re talking about? Or should I buy the marine Seafoam?
I’ve seen what they call a shock treatment where they use a one gallon gas can and a whole can of Seafoam then disconnected the fuel line and stuck it in the gas can.
I like what you’re suggesting better.
Do I run it until it stops smoking? Then go to the water with fresh fuel or run an entire tank of strong Seafoam? Also am I just idling the whole time or do you raise the rpms any?
Sorry for the hundred questions I just want to be careful running muffs and my rpms. Heard to many horror stories about running on muffs to long.
I get way better water pressure in a barrel with a hose constantly running fresh water into it. Goes through a lot of water but I know it’s getting plenty.
I bought four sets of muffs before I found some round ones it’ll run on and I secure those with a clamp I rigged up or they vibrate loose. According to the telltale it’s circulating plenty of water and I use a ir thermometer to keep an eye on it.
Thanks again for your help.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I just sold my 06 last year that had 310,000 miles on it. It was on it's second transmission, second rear diff, and it needed a transfer case when I sold it, pump rubbed through the case and it was leaking. Many front end rebuilds. The motor was hanging in there, tired but still dependable, acquired an appetite for oil. Still a dang good truck, one of the last good ones from GM.

I have never been a fan of those lifetime warranty parts, had many people boast to me about how they've just taken whatever part off and swapped it out for a new one so many times, glossing over the fact that they have to replace that junk every year. Just buy the good stuff and be done with it for a while, your time is valuable.

Mine had 289,000 miles ( 2005 Ford F-150)on it when I traded for the 2016 I now have. Other than regular maintenance I rebuilt the transmission once. And right after back surgery I talked my wife through replacing the water pump herself.
As long as you take care of something it’ll usually last. I do preventative maintenance before the manufacturer says to. I figured out fallow that and they get to sell you another one sooner. Lol

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Decided to not bother my mechanic/machinist with my boat again unless I absolutely have to.
I received all he parts today to upgrade my brakes on my truck. Since I’ll be doing that I have a vacuum/pressure pump coming tomorrow and a dial indicator will be here Tuesday.
I’ll start working Wednesday. Tuesday I think I’ll smoke out the neighborhood getting the carbon and sludge cleaned out the outboard. Supposed to have 13mph wind.
I can use both tools on both jobs. When installing the new rotors I can check the hub runout then the new rotors Incase adjustments are needed.
Then pressure test the lower unit on the outboard and check the prop shaft runout to see if it’s bent. I’ve got my Yamaha manual with all the specs. If I don’t have to pull the shaft I’ll be back on the water by end of the week. Fingers crossed.