Introduction - 1452 Alumacraft Project (New Pics!! 07-21-11)

[Topgun]

Hi all. I'm a new member here and have been enjoying reading the crazy amount of information here! I've been fishing for the past few years in a small plastic boat but have just purchased a 1957 14' Alumicraft with a 1968 Johnson 9.5 that I'll be fixing-up over the winter. It's (obviously) really old but seems very solid and doesn't leak. My main objectives are a flat floor and a proper livewell. I'm looking forward to this project and any input you all may have. Here's what I've been fishing in:

Here's what I bought:

 

[DuraCraft]

Welcome! And, that is one great looking boat! I just love the lines of these tins. You got a great one I think. The other little one on trailer seems good to, just not pretty like your tinner!!

 

[BLK fisher]

Welcome to the site. There's alot of intelligent gentlemen here to give some great ideas. Good luck with the build.

 

[cavman138]

Nice looking boat you picked up. Looks like you won't have to do a whole lot with it. Just have fun with it.

 

[jasper60103]

Yea, I agree. nice looking boat and fishing ready. Good find.
I would change the LU oil and water pump impeller on the motor.
Good luck.

 

[Topgun]

Well, I don't know about "fishing ready" as the motor doesn't run. Also, I've removed the previously installed platforms because I felt they were too high and heavy. They were built with 2x10 treated lumber and were so heavy that I could barely remove them on my own! Question: I've read all the conversion threads and noticed that most everyone is "stealcoating" the exterior. Is this just a way of fixing leaking rivets? This boat doesn't leak and I'd like to skip that step (due to limited budget) if possible.

 

[jasper60103]

Well, I don't know about "fishing ready" as the motor doesn't run. Also, I've removed the previously installed platforms because I felt they were too high and heavy. They were built with 2x10 treated lumber and were so heavy that I could barely remove them on my own! Question: I've read all the conversion threads and noticed that most everyone is "stealcoating" the exterior. Is this just a way of fixing leaking rivets? This boat doesn't leak and I'd like to skip that step (due to limited budget) if possible.

No need to "steelflex". Put your money where needed. Good luck with your project.

 

[fender66]

Looks like a great winter project. Probably good that you removed the treated wood too. It doesn't work well with aluminum and will cause damage in the long run.

Oh yeah.....Welcome aboard. Glad you found us!

 

[Topgun]

Thanks for the welcomes! What a great site!

I sold my plastic boat so I've got some money to get started on the Alumicraft this weekend. Don't have a name for it yet, but I'm thinking maybe "Bass-Nagger". Anyone seen the "nagger" South Park?

Anyway, I've got the boat gutted and I'm gonna start with rebuilding the transom and painting the interior. I'd also like to make a trip to one of the local salvage yards to look for some aluminum angle or tube for the floor framing. Questions:

1) I've got some plywood for the transom and I've seen some of the projects on here with stained wood that look really nice. Can I stain the ply and then coat with fiberglass resin or should I use something else?

2) What's the consensus on interior paint? Would some hardware store enamel be ok? Rustoleum? Should I primer first or just scuff it and go?

 

[fender66]

1) I've got some plywood for the transom and I've seen some of the projects on here with stained wood that look really nice. Can I stain the ply and then coat with fiberglass resin or should I use something else?

2) What's the consensus on interior paint? Would some hardware store enamel be ok? Rustoleum? Should I primer first or just scuff it and go?

Topgun.....I've not used wood, but I do know that there are a lot that have. I've seen a lot of recommendations some of which are, Spar Urethane, Thompson's. I'm sure someone will chime in with personal experience very soon.

As for the paint....again...lots of opinions here. I have painted my aluminum and I did use an aluminum primer that is supposed to etch it for better adhesion. I used a Rustoleum product and it seems to be working fine.

 

[po1]

Nice boat. With a 12' Boat and depending on where you fish you'll want to keep the deck lite and low. There's always those with bigger motors running full out and too close making for interesting times in a small boat. Might want to consider a portable livewell made out of a cooler, this way you can leave it a home when it's not needed giving you the extra space when needed. I use a portable livewell that I picked up from Cabelos that gives me the freedom of moving it from one boat to another when needed. Look forward to see how your mod goes.

 

[Topgun]

Well, I've got the boat gutted and have started prepping the interior for paint. I've been sanding the oxidation and old paint but have run into some trouble with the floor treatment that a previous owner put on. It's some kind of clear 'paint' with sand in it and it is extremely difficult to remove. If you look at the picture you can see the mask line around the inside of the boat. Anyway, I decided to find my "floor line" (which is to be 6" off the bottom) so that I don't have to remove any more of the dreaded grip treatment than necessary. That's where I've run into trouble. I've read on here about guys filling the boat with water and leveling it to find this line, but it's winter here and not practical to use this technique. I've tried making a jig and using a plumb bob hanging from a bar across the gunwalls but am not satisfied with the accuracy of the marks. Every part of this boat curves!! Anyway, other than filling with water, what's a good technique for doing this?

I also picked up these on ebay for $5!!

As part of the "restoration" of this:

 

[charliep]

Man that boat looks great empty. I have an idea...and it is just that. Do you have or have a friend that has one of those laser levels like they use for hanging pictures or drywall? Set it up 6" from the center line on the boar and mark where it hits the side. Then just move it and repeat.

Charlie

 

[Topgun]

No, I don't have one but a friend suggested just that and it's a good idea but I hate to spend money on single-use tools. There's got to be another way!

 

[redneckfisher]

No, I don't have one but a friend suggested just that and it's a good idea but I hate to spend money on single-use tools. There's got to be another way!

use a level, duct tape and a cheep lazer pointer. :lol:

 

[fender66]

Or....have you considered finding the mark on the outside of the boat rather than on the inside, then, measure down from the top rail to your outside marks then.... transfer the mark to the inside with the same measurement. Then...you can run a flexible straight line from mark to mark?

The biggest problem I see could be not knowing how the boat floats. It might sit lower in the water in the back than in the front??? Without knowing for sure how it floats, it could throw the level of your floor off a bit. If I had to guess, it probably will sit lower in the back??

 

[Topgun]

Or....have you considered finding the mark on the outside of the boat rather than on the inside, then, measure down from the top rail to your outside marks then.... transfer the mark to the inside with the same measurement. Then...you can run a flexible straight line from mark to mark?

The biggest problem I see could be not knowing how the boat floats. It might sit lower in the water in the back than in the front??? Without knowing for sure how it floats, it could throw the level of your floor off a bit. If I had to guess, it probably will sit lower in the back??

Good ideas, guys. Thanks.

And a good point, fender66. I've thought about this and I figured that for ease of construction I'd just make the floor parallel to the bottom of the boat and adjust balance by moving batteries, etc. once I get it on the water. Seem logical?

 

[RBuffordTJ]

Man what a great boat to start off with. I would love to find something like that when I get done with school and have time to tinker in the evenings.

Steelflex is a good thing for the outside bottom, a good number of us here use it and like it, and it took care of a couple little seepy places when I coated mine, it is now bone dry inside.

I love the motor, those old Johnsons are great motors and run forever. Just change the waterpump, check compression and change that lower unit lube, then see what happens. The carbs will need rebuilding probably, but that is very easy.

Can't wait to see how you progress.

Bufford

 

[fender66]

I figured that for ease of construction I'd just make the floor parallel to the bottom of the boat and adjust balance by moving batteries, etc. once I get it on the water. Seem logical?

I honestly don't know. I'm not familiar at all with how level these boats float. I've only owned flat bottoms. I'd really hate to have a floor that's too slanted though. It will wear you out a lot faster.

 

[tccanoe]

Getting the floor level in the bottom of the boat is the best thing to do ( I think). If the boat floats at a little angle, I don't think it will make much differance that you can notice when you're fishing. If it's flat and smooth, free of tripping-over stuff, you will be happy with the outcome. I still have a plastic boat to fish out of. They are great. I think I've caught more fish out of it because I can get it into places where there are few or no other fisherman. If your new boat don't leak, don't fix it. You can stealflex it anytime down the road if you want, but right now, get it fish ready. Welcome aboard, you're on the right track.