Aaron Lariscy
Well-known member
Can I get some pictures of how y'all mounted your lights. I am getting ready to redo my uprights and install some lights.
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PSG-1
Well-known member
Here's some photos of mine:
Basically, a piece of 2 inch galvanized square tube, welded to the side of the trailer. Then, a 4 foot length of galvanized 1 inch pipe welded to the top of that square tube, with a piece of PVC slid over the galvanized pipe.
Then I made some brackets out of 1/8 aluminum plate, bolted through the PVC into the galvanized pipe, to secure them, and to make the electrical connection with the frame of the trailer.
I like having the lights up on the PVC pipe, as it keeps them out of the water, preventing corrosion and malfunctions that occur from corrosion/immersion. Also, having them up high is more visible to drivers behind you, and reduces the possibility of them plowing into the back of your boat.
Basically, a piece of 2 inch galvanized square tube, welded to the side of the trailer. Then, a 4 foot length of galvanized 1 inch pipe welded to the top of that square tube, with a piece of PVC slid over the galvanized pipe.
Then I made some brackets out of 1/8 aluminum plate, bolted through the PVC into the galvanized pipe, to secure them, and to make the electrical connection with the frame of the trailer.
I like having the lights up on the PVC pipe, as it keeps them out of the water, preventing corrosion and malfunctions that occur from corrosion/immersion. Also, having them up high is more visible to drivers behind you, and reduces the possibility of them plowing into the back of your boat.
Aaron Lariscy
Well-known member
PSG-1 said:
That's what im looking for as well im just trying to figure out how to do it so it looks professional. I have a small issue with OCD when it comes to things like this.
PSG-1
Well-known member
If that's the boat trailer you have in the photo, it looks like you already have the uprights, you just need to use longer pieces of PVC to make them tall enough that the lights clear your gunwale as you're driving onto the trailer, or backing off it.
But, if you only extend the PVC, and not the metal pipe that it's placed over, then, you will have to run a separate ground wire for your lights, in addition to your 2 wires that normally go to the light.
Secure this ground wire to the frame of the trailer with a ring terminal and a rivet, a screw, or better yet, a self-drilling SS tap screw. On the other end of the ground wire, use a ring terminal large enough to fit over the bolt/stud on the back of the light assembly.
Use some 2 inch wide by 1/8" aluminum flat stock, and punch 2 holes for the bolts of the lights to fit into. Then, you can either bend a small 90 degree angle in it, and use a couple of SS bolts with lock washers, and thru-bolt it into the PVC.
Or, you can simply use a straight piece of the 2 inch flat stock, and thru-bolt it into the PVC like that.
You can see in the photos of mine that I bent the 90 degree angle. It works either way, though.
If you're really compulsive about appearance, you can also route the wires inside of the PVC, passing them through a hole drilled near the light assembly.
But, if you only extend the PVC, and not the metal pipe that it's placed over, then, you will have to run a separate ground wire for your lights, in addition to your 2 wires that normally go to the light.
Secure this ground wire to the frame of the trailer with a ring terminal and a rivet, a screw, or better yet, a self-drilling SS tap screw. On the other end of the ground wire, use a ring terminal large enough to fit over the bolt/stud on the back of the light assembly.
Use some 2 inch wide by 1/8" aluminum flat stock, and punch 2 holes for the bolts of the lights to fit into. Then, you can either bend a small 90 degree angle in it, and use a couple of SS bolts with lock washers, and thru-bolt it into the PVC.
Or, you can simply use a straight piece of the 2 inch flat stock, and thru-bolt it into the PVC like that.
You can see in the photos of mine that I bent the 90 degree angle. It works either way, though.
If you're really compulsive about appearance, you can also route the wires inside of the PVC, passing them through a hole drilled near the light assembly.
JMichael
Well-known member
Aaron Lariscy said:
OCD you say??? My lights are elevated enough so that when I launch or recover my boat, the lights are still a good 12-14" above the water surface so they stay dry. The upright serves a dual purpose in that it is also the rear mount for my side bunks.
It's made from some 1" steel tubing with a piece of 1/8" steel plate at the top for the light to attach to. I have yellow marker lights attached to the back side of the tail light mount plates. You'll really learn to appreciate the marker lights the first time you go to back your trailer up in the dark.
Another nice feature to having my lights set up like this, is that I can back my empty trailer up without having to let the tail gate down or having to jump from one side mirror to the other to see where my trailer is when backing up. All the wiring runs inside the 1" tubing down to the inside of the frame so it's completely protected and hidden.
Aaron Lariscy
Well-known member
PSG- That is the trailer in the picture but those uprights are about to fall off, they were emt and whenever the PO tried to weld them on he blew away most of the conduit and didn't get much tie in.
JMichael- Ill end up doing something similar though I don't think im going with the side bunks.
JMichael- Ill end up doing something similar though I don't think im going with the side bunks.
PSG-1
Well-known member
Aaron Lariscy said:
EMT conduit really isn't heavy enough for this purpose. The wall is so thin, even if welded properly, the flexing and vibration will cause the base metal to crack, and tear away.
As far as blowing holes... the time you strike arc on EMT conduit, and the galvanized coating vaporizes, it blows out a gigantic hole. It's tricky stuff to weld. You have to use .023" wire, and low voltage, and it's best to wire wheel the galvanized coating off the area that will be welded, to prevent vaporization of the base metal when heated. I've built deer stands with it, and even used it to fabricate cross members and tailgates for lightweight utility trailers, but like I said, it's tricky to weld.
For something like uprights on a boat trailer, it really should be Sch. 40 pipe, however. And instead of placing the pipe on top of the cross member tubing, and welding around the circumference of the pipe, it's better to place it on the front or back side of the cross member that extends out from the trailer frame, so you have a larger amount of surface to weld together. I've learned this after having my uprights crack welds/base metal a few times and coming loose.
