MMF'S-1990 Tracker TX-17 Alum Build (FINAL PIX 10/22/11)

[mmarz4evr]

Wow, amazing work, mmf! Hadn't noticed this thread until just today, as there was a new post to it. I checked it out from page 1, and I have to say, you've got a good bit of time and effort in that boat, but it really looks good! =D>

BTW, here's a useful bit of info: if you're cutting aluminum with a circular saw, you need a "Diablo" blade. It will make the job much easier. You should be able to find one at a Lowe's or a Home Depot. They are red in color, and they are about half as thick as a regular circular saw blade, which equals a smaller kerf, but more importantly, it also means there is less resistance on the motor of the saw, which equals faster cuts with less effort. If you are cutting 1/8" plate, get the fine tooth type. But on thicker aluminum, like 3/16 or 1/4", get a more coarse tooth, like a framing cut blade. These diablo blades are simply awesome for cutting aluminum.


Cold night here on the SC coast, too, gonna be 34 degrees tonight. Still a little too warm to fire up the snow guns, but cold enough I have the wood stove going. Well, considering turkey day is next week, it's about time for some cool weather here. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family, too!

Can you use these blades with a miter saw?

 

[PSG-1]

Wow, amazing work, mmf! Hadn't noticed this thread until just today, as there was a new post to it. I checked it out from page 1, and I have to say, you've got a good bit of time and effort in that boat, but it really looks good! =D>

BTW, here's a useful bit of info: if you're cutting aluminum with a circular saw, you need a "Diablo" blade. It will make the job much easier. You should be able to find one at a Lowe's or a Home Depot. They are red in color, and they are about half as thick as a regular circular saw blade, which equals a smaller kerf, but more importantly, it also means there is less resistance on the motor of the saw, which equals faster cuts with less effort. If you are cutting 1/8" plate, get the fine tooth type. But on thicker aluminum, like 3/16 or 1/4", get a more coarse tooth, like a framing cut blade. These diablo blades are simply awesome for cutting aluminum.


Cold night here on the SC coast, too, gonna be 34 degrees tonight. Still a little too warm to fire up the snow guns, but cold enough I have the wood stove going. Well, considering turkey day is next week, it's about time for some cool weather here. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family, too!

Can you use these blades with a miter saw?

Absolutely. They will fit any saw that takes a typical 7 1/2" circular saw blade. And as I said, you will be amazed at how much faster the diablo blade goes through aluminum.

 

[wcbond4]

I love all your diamond plate! How's the heat/glare from it? I wish I had a scrap yard close by...that stuff is expensive!

Great idea on the Trex boards! That never even crossed my mind when I was debating wood/aluminum material. That would make great supports for decking! A lot cheaper than aluminum too.

 

[mmf]

I love all your diamond plate! How's the heat/glare from it? I wish I had a scrap yard close by...that stuff is expensive!

Great idea on the Trex boards! That never even crossed my mind when I was debating wood/aluminum material. That would make great supports for decking! A lot cheaper than aluminum too.

sorry for the late response, I have not visited the forum in several months,(busy fishin and workin).
No heat or glare noted, the aluminum has dulled down drastically since walking on it regularly, cutting bait, fish guts, spilled sodas, catfish slime........all is well as far as I am concerned but I don't fish the extremely HOT part of the year here (July-August), unless I go at night, no hotter than my drab green sea-ark........been catchin some nice blue cats in it too..............

 

[dyeguy1212]

Not sure if this was covered somewhere in the 15 pages, but what did you use to clean up the hull? It looks pretty good.

 

[Kochy]

is it just me or are most of the pictures gone from this thread? cause they're not showing up for me. The ones on the first page are but none of the others.

 

[JMichael]

Just skimmed the first 4 pages and all the pics seem to be there on all four pages for me.

 

[bailey205nelson]

Finally got to do some work out in the rain though, finished tearout of floor at battery/fuel compartment so I could remove the soaking wet floor insulation and cut the bottom 2 inches of the poured insulation out. I have decided to remove all the poured floatation material and refill the area with noodles I spoke of earlier.

Removal of splash well area and top transom cap is complete and it was a pain for me because I did not have a small right angle grinder, I borrowed a cut-off tool from work but it was VERY weak and took practically all day to cut through the welds and top transom cap, I blame alot of my slow progress on my air compressor whick could not keep up with the air demand. I am GLAD I took out the wood, I found that the transom wood was half rotten even though it seemed OK pounding on the transom with my hand before removal. HEADS-UP on all you Tracker modders!
Here is the link to my findings rather than post all of the pictures here................
https://picasaweb.google.com/114764926961602492668/TrackerTX17RottenTransom?feat=directlink
PS......note on some of the pics that I have drilled pilot holes through the center of the bottom floor supports for drainage, I will be enlarging these holes before the area is resealed so the boat will have proper drainage!

I love this build, great work! I am starting my restoration of my 1983 Basstracker III which is VERY similar to your boat. Don’t know if you’re still active here or not but I was needing the pics from this post. The pictures that were on the external link you shared on either page 1 or 2 of the transom removal process are the ones I need. The link is no longer working for some reason and I can’t find anything. I am about to begin tackling the transom and your pics along with tips & experience will help. Thank you for the forum!