My winter project...

[FishingBuds]

Jb works.

before repair drill a 1/16 to 1/8 hole at both ends of the crack so it won't split any further.

Your primer is fine, 3 coats is the way :wink:

Future referance-I found the ecthing primer in the auto-motive section by the touch up paint section.

Marine paint for the sea-YES SIR!

Fresh water-you can go cheap, but it won't last long so thats alot of work for few years on a paint job.

I'd want one that gives me at least 4 to 5 years before it starts to ware down.

Depending on what you want I know you can get a gallon of Olive marine paint at your local army surplus store for around 25 bucks, this stuff is good and last.

custom colors try https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?refineType=1&refineName=Brand&refineValue=Interlux&refine=1&page=GRID&history=z0sgg6li%7Ctop_category%7Cpage%7EGRID%5EcategoryName%7EPaints%5EcategoryId%7E532&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=interlux+paint They have a live chat service and I have used it. These guys are great on filling questions and setting you up for a good custom color paint job that won't bite the wallet :wink:

Keep us posted

 

[DryFlyRy]

https://www.iboats.com/Mega_Gloss_1...8073090--session_id.709765802--view_id.363468

this is what I was going to end up getting, but i figured if a polyurethane enamel was a polyurethane enamel and i could find it at home depot or somewhere local i could get away with not paying the 20 dollars for shipping... there's a Tractor Supply Company right down the street i wonder if they would have something similar... i'll look for the jb weld while im there too...

 

[DryFlyRy]

Went to TSC yesterday and was happy to find some (what seemed to be) promising paint alternatives... I know I read somewhere on here that people had used tractor paint with good results, and I found this at TSC: https://www.valsparglobal.com/val/resident/valspar_imp.jsp. I also picked up a can of hardener for the extra duribilty and glossiness. :lol: I ended up going with the "Ford Blue" as opposed to the "John Deer Green" because it had more gloss to it. I think it will look pretty sexy. Also picked up a spray can of gloss black for the accents. They didnt have that JB Weld for the crack in the, ahem, keel... But i did find something similar that said it bonded to aluminum. Hopefully I can get over to the shop tonight if the girlfriend lets me and get that crack sealed and a coat of paint on...

After re-reading this thread i realised i may have rudely not responded to some questions or comments, so let me take the time to do so now...

FishingBuds - Yes my little choc friend does come with me on my fishing adventures. She is a good girl and behaves very well on the boat. Her name is Mable. Im sure you'll see more of her.

CheeseBall - I fish everything! Started out spinnerfishing the local river, then bass fishing some ponds from the shore, then fell in love with fly-fishing, then found myself with a big surf rod out at the cape, then got the canoe to get out further in the ponds, then traded the canoe for the kayak (all sorts of decked out and moded for fishing) to get into harder to reach spots, THEN got this boat to fish and troll some of the bigger lakes of the area... so yea, i have a bit of an addiction on my hands :wink:

BassBoy1 - I like your idea about the seat, but unfortunatly I already told santa to get me the fixed pedistal base and santas UPS team already delivered it :mrgreen: but im not too picky and am already used to fishing from that spot anyways...

Jim - Thanks for the comment on the Tattoo! its when i realised i officially had an addiction on my hands! I actually have a nice big pond lily now on the bicep area that i had done after that pic was taken.

 

[spanky543]

Hi,

That’s a really nice boat with a lot of potential…Looks a lot like mine just newer! Your ideas with the decking look really cool and well thought out. As for your crack in the aluminum:

To fix your crack you need to weld it...but wait I’m not talking about mig or arch welding. It’s more like braising or soldering. I have a boat similar to yours. It’s a 1948 Arkansas Traveler. It had 3 cracks and holes at the transom corner. I used a product called Alumiweld. These are rods that you use like solder. Here is the website:

https://www.alumiweld.com/

There also is a different product called Durafix here is there website:

https://www.durafix.com/

I used Alumiweld because I was able to buy it at the local hardware store Harbor Freight Tools. You have to use the MAPP gas or hotter when using a torch to heat the aluminum. I tried for almost 2 weekends using just propane and it never worked. When I tried MAPP gas (the yellow bottle) it worked like a charm. JB Weld works well but it can crack sometimes. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[DryFlyRy]

I ended up using the jb weld type putty, we'll see how it holds up, it might be fine after getting painted over... here are the pics of the paint i did today, i have one more coat of the blue and then the black where all the white is...

and i gave the OB a make over too...
Before:

Primed:

After:

I'll be putting some fresh new evinrude vinyl decals on there too...

 

[Jim]

Looking good! :beer:

 

[SnowmanJon]

Looks like we have the smae boat!

 

[DryFlyRy]

wow! nice! only difference is my transom is straight in the back where yours dips down a bit, must be like a year apart... we should keep in touch with our trials and tribulations!

 

[ben2go]

She's lookin good.

 

[fishinchef]

My dads got the same boat great stability. Looking good I like the paint job on the motor

 

[DryFlyRy]

quick q' before work... i noticed that there were a lot of little bumps in the paint on the boat :? ... looks like dust particles or something... would it be worth sanding these out before i put on a second coat or would i make matters worse and the sanding would show through?

 

[russ010]

I would do a light wetsand over the boat... get a real fine grit sandpaper and just keep it wet... you won't lose paint, and it will scuff it up just enough (you won't notice it) and the paint will adhere better... just don't over do it. When I say light sanding, I mean no pressure and keep it in a circular motion - wax on only... no wax off!

 

[DryFlyRy]

heading over there now, thank you... mr. miagi!

 

[Jim]

heading over there now, thank you... mr. miagi!

:LOL2: :beer:

 

[DryFlyRy]

made some progress... finished up with the second coat of paint, and did the black accents... certainly not perfect, but im going to go back and touch it up towards the end up the project. I got her flipped back over and onto the trailer so its easier to work on. Saturday was my livewell project day. I used an old coleman cooler, 2 pumps from wally world at 25 bucks each (1 mounted through the transom for the fill, and the other though the cooler for occasionally recirculating the water once its in there) , some hose, pvc, and a 2 dollar toilet flusher that will pop out the plug for the drain so you dont have to stick your hand in cold fish poop water . Sunday I laid out some cardboard templates to get an idea how everything was going to lay out. I'll prob make some new ones when it comes down to the actual cutting, these are just rough ups. I took apart the seats after realizing the aluminum housing for the safety foam would make great storage bins for the hatches. Im going to sand off the rust and prime them with some anti rust primer and eventually carpet them. (I'll be sure to make a way for water to escape after reading another post :wink: ) Then this morning I went and got some lumber (just had to go the wood rout once i saw the price of aluminum!) from home depot and start laying out the frame work for the front deck. I got everything cut and positioned for the front deck (sorry no pics, the camera was acting really funny today :evil: ) now I just need to pick up some thomson WS and seal em up before tying it all together.Heres the pics from sunday of the cardboard templates...

Hatch to the livewell pump.

Rear storage hatch and hatch to the bilge and rear anchor.

Livewell

Front storage hatch and battery/front anchor hatch

View from up front...

 

[Big Buck]

Looks great!!! I do have a question though on the Thompson Water Seal, I was curios as to how long that will last, would you be better off using polurathane instead? I was under the impression that Water seal has to be re-applied after a year or so, just a question and if so hope I helped, if not just ignore me, lol. Good luck and keep those pictures coming.

 

[ben2go]

Good werk DryFlyRy.I like the layout.Check your work first,before you finialize everything to make sure the boat is balance front to back and left to right.

Looks great!!! I do have a question though on the Thompson Water Seal, I was curios as to how long that will last, would you be better off using polurathane instead? I was under the impression that Water seal has to be re-applied after a year or so, just a question and if so hope I helped, if not just ignore me, lol. Good luck and keep those pictures coming.

As long as it isn't exposed to the weather like a porch or deck it should be fine.Just remember to leave the drain plug out when the boat is out of the water.Carpet with rubber backing plus the adhesive will help keep the moister off the wood.I prefer paint or epoxy coating.I redecked pontoons 15 years ago,some are permanently dock and others just sit out on their trailer or blocks,and the wood still looks good.The only thing I've noticed is a little darkening of the wood,very little checking,and no soft spots.

 

[Big Buck]

Good werk DryFlyRy.I like the layout.Check your work first,before you finialize everything to make sure the boat is balance front to back and left to right.

Looks great!!! I do have a question though on the Thompson Water Seal, I was curios as to how long that will last, would you be better off using polurathane instead? I was under the impression that Water seal has to be re-applied after a year or so, just a question and if so hope I helped, if not just ignore me, lol. Good luck and keep those pictures coming.

As long as it isn't exposed to the weather like a porch or deck it should be fine.Just remember to leave the drain plug out when the boat is out of the water.Carpet with rubber backing plus the adhesive will help keep the moister off the wood.I prefer paint or epoxy coating.I redecked pontoons 15 years ago,some are permanently dock and others just sit out on their trailer or blocks,and the wood still looks good.The only thing I've noticed is a little darkening of the wood,very little checking,and no soft spots.

Good to know I was not for sure what to do on mine. I think that Thompsons' is quite a bit cheaper too!!! Thanks.

 

[ben2go]

You're welcome.

 

[DryFlyRy]

I prefer paint or epoxy coating.

What is a good paint to use? a poly? laytex? I think I would rather have something that was a spray on cus it will prob go on quicker. At least for the frame work, only problem is I would like something that goes on clear as each piece is labeled for when I put it all back together. My ply I could really brush on some good heavy coats of something as i would think thats whats most prone to rot... what did everyone else use?