Shoedawg
Well-known member
drn1617 said:
Starting with a 12 volt first, then maybe move up to a 24. I have the room up front for two batteries. I hope it does last a looooong time. :mrgreen:
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Starting with a 12 volt first, then maybe move up to a 24. I have the room up front for two batteries. I hope it does last a looooong time. :mrgreen:
Shoedawg
Well-known member
I have been working at the tin pretty hardcore for the last 5 days, putting in long hours to get this puppy done. Had family in town for a week, so no work got done, but it was a good break from the boat for awhile. So here is what I have got done.
These are the hatches that came in. The BIG one is going over the battery/gas tank well, while the two little ones will be used for drop-in storage. Plus the hatches will make up part of the back deck.
Here I cut up two sheets of aluminum that will be part of the back deck, going over the port side and star board side of the cavity wells.
About to start cutting out the hole for the little hatches. I used a large drill bit to help me start my cuts and to round the corners. Using the jig-saw made it pretty simple work.
And here are the hatches in place and exactly where I wanted them.
Just a pic of one of the hatches open.
I placed the big hatch over the well, seen here, to see how it all looked.
The big hatch is going to give me a little challenge, though. There are welds along the corners of the big hole that the hatch is going into, but is preventing the **** thing from going in smoothly. I had to sand down the welds just a bit to get the hatch to fit. It took A LOT of time to do. I didn't want to sand to much of the weld down and thus risk loosing it. Eventually I got the hatch to fit, but its TIGHT!!! I finally had to cheat and used some of my cutting wax to reduce the friction of the corners and tap the hatches corners down with a rubber mallet. I got it flush, but it was a PIA :evil: After getting it down, I stood on it to test it for strength and it was very stable.
Next up was cutting the holes for the rod and cup holder. I have several large hole saws laying around and they did a great job of cutting through the sheet. Use em' if you have them. Larger ones can get kinda pricey, so look at Harbor Freight for cheaper ones if you need them just for making cuts in your deck.
Here is the rod and cup holders dry fitted. I really like the flush mounted cup holders I purchased. I put the cup holder towards the back to keep it out of the way while fishing and to give me space for standing and walking over the deck.
This is the star board side with another rod holder towards the back. I now have three rod holders for the boat installed. Two in the back and one up front. I was going to add a 4th one, but decided against it. Didn't really think I needed that many in the boat. I put two in the back, in case I wanted to troll for a bit.
And finally I drilled and installed the cup holder for the front deck. I really didn't know where to put it at first on the deck until my wife suggested I put it right under where the seat is going. Not a bad idea. Its out of the way and you cant step on it. Plus it'll be shaded from time to time from being under the seat. I did a little test before I drilled the hole to see if it would be easy to reach for a drink and it was.
These are the hatches that came in. The BIG one is going over the battery/gas tank well, while the two little ones will be used for drop-in storage. Plus the hatches will make up part of the back deck.
Here I cut up two sheets of aluminum that will be part of the back deck, going over the port side and star board side of the cavity wells.
About to start cutting out the hole for the little hatches. I used a large drill bit to help me start my cuts and to round the corners. Using the jig-saw made it pretty simple work.
And here are the hatches in place and exactly where I wanted them.
Just a pic of one of the hatches open.
I placed the big hatch over the well, seen here, to see how it all looked.
The big hatch is going to give me a little challenge, though. There are welds along the corners of the big hole that the hatch is going into, but is preventing the **** thing from going in smoothly. I had to sand down the welds just a bit to get the hatch to fit. It took A LOT of time to do. I didn't want to sand to much of the weld down and thus risk loosing it. Eventually I got the hatch to fit, but its TIGHT!!! I finally had to cheat and used some of my cutting wax to reduce the friction of the corners and tap the hatches corners down with a rubber mallet. I got it flush, but it was a PIA :evil: After getting it down, I stood on it to test it for strength and it was very stable.
Next up was cutting the holes for the rod and cup holder. I have several large hole saws laying around and they did a great job of cutting through the sheet. Use em' if you have them. Larger ones can get kinda pricey, so look at Harbor Freight for cheaper ones if you need them just for making cuts in your deck.
Here is the rod and cup holders dry fitted. I really like the flush mounted cup holders I purchased. I put the cup holder towards the back to keep it out of the way while fishing and to give me space for standing and walking over the deck.
This is the star board side with another rod holder towards the back. I now have three rod holders for the boat installed. Two in the back and one up front. I was going to add a 4th one, but decided against it. Didn't really think I needed that many in the boat. I put two in the back, in case I wanted to troll for a bit.
And finally I drilled and installed the cup holder for the front deck. I really didn't know where to put it at first on the deck until my wife suggested I put it right under where the seat is going. Not a bad idea. Its out of the way and you cant step on it. Plus it'll be shaded from time to time from being under the seat. I did a little test before I drilled the hole to see if it would be easy to reach for a drink and it was.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Now it was on to cutting the Hydroturf and fitting to size for the back deck and all my hatches. Like before, I fitted my pieces right onto of the turf and cut the holes using my exacto knife and razor roller (looks like a pizza cutter). I gave self about half and inch on the sides (length ways) for play when I finally put it down.
This is how I did the hatches. I clamped them facing down, then open the lip outwards, and cut the turf using the edge of the hatch lid and cutting out the latch hole. I didn't give myself any extra turf on the lids because there was no need to.
And here are all the hatches with their turf cut and ready to go. I wont install the turf on the hatches until about the end of the build.
And here is the back deck sheets with the turf cut out.
Next up was the front casting deck and reinforcing it and adding some structural legs for support.
I used three beams for the front which will also support a wall that is going to be attached to them (to help start creating the front storage area). The wall will cover about 3/4 of the back with a hole on the left of the deck. This "hole" will be part of my rod locker. When I get to it :|
This beam here is going to be attached to the bottom of that angle bar and to the floor.
Heres all the support beams. Its pretty stable and the edge of the deck will be sitting on brackets and riveted down but the deck need more support along the left and right sides. There was some flex along those sides I wanted to address.
So I measured and labeled a bunch of angle and drilled/riveted them down onto the deck. I had to make sure that I didn't go all the way out to the edge of the deck with the angle, due to having the support brackets (that are already installed on the inside of the deck area) being in the way and to help support the rest of the deck.
Riveting in the angle. I tell you what. That pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight has been a CHAMP!!! With the amount of riveting I have done, it has really saves my arms and time. After I got the support in and stood on the deck to test it out, and it was solid and very stable to stand and move about on. Shouldn't be a problem.
This is how I did the hatches. I clamped them facing down, then open the lip outwards, and cut the turf using the edge of the hatch lid and cutting out the latch hole. I didn't give myself any extra turf on the lids because there was no need to.
And here are all the hatches with their turf cut and ready to go. I wont install the turf on the hatches until about the end of the build.
And here is the back deck sheets with the turf cut out.
Next up was the front casting deck and reinforcing it and adding some structural legs for support.
I used three beams for the front which will also support a wall that is going to be attached to them (to help start creating the front storage area). The wall will cover about 3/4 of the back with a hole on the left of the deck. This "hole" will be part of my rod locker. When I get to it :|
This beam here is going to be attached to the bottom of that angle bar and to the floor.
Heres all the support beams. Its pretty stable and the edge of the deck will be sitting on brackets and riveted down but the deck need more support along the left and right sides. There was some flex along those sides I wanted to address.
So I measured and labeled a bunch of angle and drilled/riveted them down onto the deck. I had to make sure that I didn't go all the way out to the edge of the deck with the angle, due to having the support brackets (that are already installed on the inside of the deck area) being in the way and to help support the rest of the deck.
Riveting in the angle. I tell you what. That pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight has been a CHAMP!!! With the amount of riveting I have done, it has really saves my arms and time. After I got the support in and stood on the deck to test it out, and it was solid and very stable to stand and move about on. Shouldn't be a problem.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
I do plan on helping support the angle legs some, by adding cutting out two angles and adding them to the inside of the support beam like this.
Now the reason why that angle isn't flush with the angle beam, is because that angle beam doesn't have a true 90 degree corner. What I mean by this is that the angle beam does sit at 90 degrees but the corner of it is kinda filled in and rounded. That is because it is 6061 aluminum angle (I think that is the number) and is used for structure support. The gap seen between the two angles though, will be filled with another piece of angle, going the other way of the one shown here. This way, I have peace of mind about support. Both the top and bottom are getting this done.
If you look to the very far left towards the back of the picture (or in this case towards the front left of the deck) you can see the how I have two angles attached to the bottom of the beam.
Does anybody's work bench look like this while working??? No wonder I spend 20 minutes looking for something that I just set down 5 minutes ago :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
After messing around with the deck, I took a break from it and went to the back of my cavity wells to seal the gaps I had from my elevated channels. I plan on pouring foam into these channels and didn't want any of it leaking into the bottom. So I used some good ole' fashion duct tape to seal the gaps up to prevent that problem from happening. I also added some aluminum shims to the side brackets in the wells to help support the back decks that are going over the wells. Keep your scrap. It comes in handy.
Also added some support across the span of the back decks. These are 1x1 squares. Again very stable.
Did the same for the front bow deck. I had just one support bar, but there was still a little to much flex for my taste of comfort. So I added another bar to it.
I also added some support for the live-well/cooler lid. I painted the bars black to keep the aluminum shine down. Here is just some of what it looks like so far. Still have to add some more support. I will share the rest of it later.
And this is where I am now. I put the turf down for the floor and put the deck in and called it a day. The plan is to get the turf installed in the floor and to stick the rest of the cut out turf to the bow deck, front deck, back deck, hatches, and install all the seat hardware, rod/cup holders and hopefully rivet the front decks down for good. If I get all that done at a decent time, then I will start putting in my console and bench seat. I really want to get this baby on the water soon.
Now the reason why that angle isn't flush with the angle beam, is because that angle beam doesn't have a true 90 degree corner. What I mean by this is that the angle beam does sit at 90 degrees but the corner of it is kinda filled in and rounded. That is because it is 6061 aluminum angle (I think that is the number) and is used for structure support. The gap seen between the two angles though, will be filled with another piece of angle, going the other way of the one shown here. This way, I have peace of mind about support. Both the top and bottom are getting this done.
If you look to the very far left towards the back of the picture (or in this case towards the front left of the deck) you can see the how I have two angles attached to the bottom of the beam.
Does anybody's work bench look like this while working??? No wonder I spend 20 minutes looking for something that I just set down 5 minutes ago :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
After messing around with the deck, I took a break from it and went to the back of my cavity wells to seal the gaps I had from my elevated channels. I plan on pouring foam into these channels and didn't want any of it leaking into the bottom. So I used some good ole' fashion duct tape to seal the gaps up to prevent that problem from happening. I also added some aluminum shims to the side brackets in the wells to help support the back decks that are going over the wells. Keep your scrap. It comes in handy.
Also added some support across the span of the back decks. These are 1x1 squares. Again very stable.
Did the same for the front bow deck. I had just one support bar, but there was still a little to much flex for my taste of comfort. So I added another bar to it.
I also added some support for the live-well/cooler lid. I painted the bars black to keep the aluminum shine down. Here is just some of what it looks like so far. Still have to add some more support. I will share the rest of it later.
And this is where I am now. I put the turf down for the floor and put the deck in and called it a day. The plan is to get the turf installed in the floor and to stick the rest of the cut out turf to the bow deck, front deck, back deck, hatches, and install all the seat hardware, rod/cup holders and hopefully rivet the front decks down for good. If I get all that done at a decent time, then I will start putting in my console and bench seat. I really want to get this baby on the water soon.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Well I finally got the HydroTurf installed, permanently, on the floor and bow deck. I also spent sometime drilling holes for the back decks to prep them for riveting. Also got the front casting deck installed and riveted down as well. Here we go....
Before I could rivet down the front deck, I needed to address a pretty significant gap that was keeping the very front edges of the deck from making contact with the support brackets. There was a good amount of flex on the sides, so I went to my scrap pile of aluminum sheets and made some shims. I tact'd the shims together with some super glue (to prevent them from slipping, somewhat, when I drilled into them) and riveted them down.
The shims did the trick and really made a difference for support. Like I said before, hang onto that scrap. Never know when it may come in handy.
After that was done, I riveted in the bow deck and then focused on applying all my cut outs that I made with the turf and attached them to all my hatches. The turf already had 3M backing on it, so all I had to do was remove the wax paper on the back and apply. To help even out the turf and make sure the turf was making contact with the hatch lids, my wife used a cheap rolling pin, using pressure, and rolled it about the turf, causing it to adhere well.
When we got all the turf on the hatches completed, it was time to put in the floor. Before I laid the turf down for good, I did a quick sweep and shop-vac'ed any debris, dirt, metal shavings, and gave it a good scrub with some dish soap and a rinse then allowed it to dry. I wanted to make sure I had a clean surface before I applied the 3M adhesive backing to the deck to ensure a good stick.
Now, it wasn't to difficult laying down such a large piece of turf, but I would recommend a helper. Before we even applied it, we played with the turf to find where we exactly wanted it to be, and what was the best way to apply it (length ways, width ways). We decided length ways would be the best method.
To get it started we tore about a 1/4 of the paper backing, length wise, and kept the rest of the paper on the turf. Keeping the remaining 3/4 of the paper on the turf allowed us to step on the it, while we applied the exposed backing to the first area to go down. Like this.
After getting the first part down, we then did the same technique until it the whole thing was down and applied to the floor. From there it was a matter of just trimming up the excess turf. Using a Xacto knife works well. Be careful though. Using the Xacto can and will but a fine scratch line into your paint job. It did with mine, but I am not concerned, because I plan on putting some turf on the wall.
With the floor in, and having some scrap turf left over from the lids, I wanted to cover the rest on the front. It was patch work, but will do the trick. Plus its going to be covered by the deck and be out of site anyways.
I threw on the deck to get it ready to be riveted down for good. Before I could officially do it, I had to cut around the feet of the deck stands, to get them flush with the deck, then pop'd some rivets into the floor.
A shot from underneath the deck, FINALLY mounted!!!
I wanted to see how the front deck would look like with with the hatches, rod/cup holders and seat base. So I threw it all together and this is what it looks like so far. The bow deck is mounted and carpeted already as well. The deck itself is TIGHT, and very stable. I can't feel any flex. It feels very strong and supports me just fine. I am so glad I am done with it. Just have to add the wall to the back of it, turf it over and then its done.
I was running out of time for the day, so I didn't get a chance to turf the casting deck, but that is the plan for tomorrow. Got to trim it up some and it should be good to go.
Before I could rivet down the front deck, I needed to address a pretty significant gap that was keeping the very front edges of the deck from making contact with the support brackets. There was a good amount of flex on the sides, so I went to my scrap pile of aluminum sheets and made some shims. I tact'd the shims together with some super glue (to prevent them from slipping, somewhat, when I drilled into them) and riveted them down.
The shims did the trick and really made a difference for support. Like I said before, hang onto that scrap. Never know when it may come in handy.
After that was done, I riveted in the bow deck and then focused on applying all my cut outs that I made with the turf and attached them to all my hatches. The turf already had 3M backing on it, so all I had to do was remove the wax paper on the back and apply. To help even out the turf and make sure the turf was making contact with the hatch lids, my wife used a cheap rolling pin, using pressure, and rolled it about the turf, causing it to adhere well.
When we got all the turf on the hatches completed, it was time to put in the floor. Before I laid the turf down for good, I did a quick sweep and shop-vac'ed any debris, dirt, metal shavings, and gave it a good scrub with some dish soap and a rinse then allowed it to dry. I wanted to make sure I had a clean surface before I applied the 3M adhesive backing to the deck to ensure a good stick.
Now, it wasn't to difficult laying down such a large piece of turf, but I would recommend a helper. Before we even applied it, we played with the turf to find where we exactly wanted it to be, and what was the best way to apply it (length ways, width ways). We decided length ways would be the best method.
To get it started we tore about a 1/4 of the paper backing, length wise, and kept the rest of the paper on the turf. Keeping the remaining 3/4 of the paper on the turf allowed us to step on the it, while we applied the exposed backing to the first area to go down. Like this.
After getting the first part down, we then did the same technique until it the whole thing was down and applied to the floor. From there it was a matter of just trimming up the excess turf. Using a Xacto knife works well. Be careful though. Using the Xacto can and will but a fine scratch line into your paint job. It did with mine, but I am not concerned, because I plan on putting some turf on the wall.
With the floor in, and having some scrap turf left over from the lids, I wanted to cover the rest on the front. It was patch work, but will do the trick. Plus its going to be covered by the deck and be out of site anyways.
I threw on the deck to get it ready to be riveted down for good. Before I could officially do it, I had to cut around the feet of the deck stands, to get them flush with the deck, then pop'd some rivets into the floor.
A shot from underneath the deck, FINALLY mounted!!!
I wanted to see how the front deck would look like with with the hatches, rod/cup holders and seat base. So I threw it all together and this is what it looks like so far. The bow deck is mounted and carpeted already as well. The deck itself is TIGHT, and very stable. I can't feel any flex. It feels very strong and supports me just fine. I am so glad I am done with it. Just have to add the wall to the back of it, turf it over and then its done.
I was running out of time for the day, so I didn't get a chance to turf the casting deck, but that is the plan for tomorrow. Got to trim it up some and it should be good to go.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
I also dry fitted the back of the boat. Here is what it all looks like together.
The saga continues on Project Shoebox. I hope to get a lot done over the next two days. The goal is to get foam poured in on Tuesday, or sooner and finish the rest of the back. Stay tuned...
The saga continues on Project Shoebox. I hope to get a lot done over the next two days. The goal is to get foam poured in on Tuesday, or sooner and finish the rest of the back. Stay tuned...
Shoedawg
Well-known member
beagler1 said:
Not at all. Here is what the stock is and how much I paid for it:
6063 Aluminum Square Tube 1x1x1/8 wall T52 (21ft) $26.82
6061 Aluminum Angle 1.5x1.5x1/8 wall T6 (25ft) $22.58
Find a local aluminum dealer to buy such sizes. The BIG BOX stores will charge a high mark up price on aluminum, if you buy through them.
I wouldn't use wood to help save a few bucks. With the cost and time to seal it properly, the weight it adds to the boat, and then having to rebuild a deck, floor, etc. again in a few years due to rot, paying the extra cost for aluminum is worth it.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Well I got the foam poured in the back and also finished up the front deck. I'll start with the front first, then will share my experience with the 2-part foam. Lets get started.
I needed to start closing up the front deck and needed to build a wall. The right side of the deck, where the edge of the wall was going was at a angle, and I wanted the wall to be one piece. So I used a electronic angle finder to help me find the degree that I needed.
After measuring a doing some cuts, I riveted the wall to the deck and roughed it up with some 40 grit sandpaper on a orbital sander, to help the Hydroturf stick.
Next was putting the turf down onto the deck itself, then the wall. I used the same technique I used for mounting the turf to the floor. Again I peeled, about half the wax paper off, then applied it to the floor loosely, shown below.
After that side was done, I did the remaining half, applied it, then smoothed it out with my rolling pin and trimmed the excess turf.
Here is the wall being rolled out. I though this was going to be difficult to apply, but it was pretty easy to do. The turf also forms well over the edge of the deck, giving a nice clean look.
After the turf work was done, I riveted down the hatches and installed all the locking hardware, bolted the seat place in place and installed the cup and rod holder. ALL DONE!!!
Ok so I know what you are thinking. What is going on with the left side of the deck and that gaping hole??? That is part of my rod locker set up and that is the area where it will be extended to. I have yet to build or even started the locker, and may not get to it by my deadline date. If I have time before I leave, then I will build it. If not, I am not to worried about it, because it's something I don't really need to have before I take it to Montana. But it will get done at the appointed time.
Just a better view of the wall.
Here I am standing on the casting deck. I am very happy with the results and glad the hard work paid off. This baby is stable and strong, and should even withstand some of my heavier passengers that come along.
Another view of the completed front.
Also got a brand new fuel reader installed into my gas tank. The original one was in bad shape.
I needed to start closing up the front deck and needed to build a wall. The right side of the deck, where the edge of the wall was going was at a angle, and I wanted the wall to be one piece. So I used a electronic angle finder to help me find the degree that I needed.
After measuring a doing some cuts, I riveted the wall to the deck and roughed it up with some 40 grit sandpaper on a orbital sander, to help the Hydroturf stick.
Next was putting the turf down onto the deck itself, then the wall. I used the same technique I used for mounting the turf to the floor. Again I peeled, about half the wax paper off, then applied it to the floor loosely, shown below.
After that side was done, I did the remaining half, applied it, then smoothed it out with my rolling pin and trimmed the excess turf.
Here is the wall being rolled out. I though this was going to be difficult to apply, but it was pretty easy to do. The turf also forms well over the edge of the deck, giving a nice clean look.
After the turf work was done, I riveted down the hatches and installed all the locking hardware, bolted the seat place in place and installed the cup and rod holder. ALL DONE!!!
Ok so I know what you are thinking. What is going on with the left side of the deck and that gaping hole??? That is part of my rod locker set up and that is the area where it will be extended to. I have yet to build or even started the locker, and may not get to it by my deadline date. If I have time before I leave, then I will build it. If not, I am not to worried about it, because it's something I don't really need to have before I take it to Montana. But it will get done at the appointed time.
Just a better view of the wall.
Here I am standing on the casting deck. I am very happy with the results and glad the hard work paid off. This baby is stable and strong, and should even withstand some of my heavier passengers that come along.
Another view of the completed front.
Also got a brand new fuel reader installed into my gas tank. The original one was in bad shape.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Okay, now onto the foam process. Here is what I did.
Before I started, I first wrapped my drop-in storage in plastic. The reason why I did this, was to prevent the foam from adhering to the storage while I set it in the cavity to be filled. The foam doesn't stick to plastic, making it easy to remove the storage and help create a cavity within the foam. I'll show you what I mean in a little bit.
To make sure my storage containers where going to be properly under the hatches and inline, I duct taped the storage underneath my back decks. That way they wouldn't slip or move when I added the foam solution. I was not sure (at this point in the progress) how the foam was going to react.
Alright, so this is what I am working with. I have my 2-part foam, some cheap plastic cups, a couple stir sticks, a Sharpie. I also added a two plastic mixing cups and lots of rubber gloves.
I started out small first, and conducted a test to see how the foam would play out. I labeled two cups, A & B, each cup for the different chemical. I also drew a line around the cup to mark where to stop while pouring. There is no complex measuring here. It is a simple 1:1 ratio per the instructions on the foam containers. Also notice the different colors in the cups due to the different solutions.
From there, I grabbed a dedicated plastic mixing cup (large enough to hold both solutions) and poured them together into the cup.
After pouring, just simply stir the foam components together for about 25 seconds keeping an eye on it and starting to get thicker and expanding.
After the foam starts to expand, you have to move quickly and start pouring. I used a cardboard to see how the foam would expand and react. It kinda looks like pancake batter.
After pouring I let it sit and watched how far it would expand.
Getting bigger.
This stuff doesn't take to long to set up and expand. It will set up and harden in a few minuets. It also gets pretty warm and will stay that way until it cools. Don't touch it for a few minuets. After that it will feel spongy, then start to harden. I was able to stand on it after about 15 minuets and it was rock hard.
NOTE: The instructions recommend to pour foam in temperatures of 80 degrees or higher. Doing so, greatly expands the foam, thus saving you material. If you were to pour foam in 50 degree weather, the expansion ratio will be reduced quite a bit (I think about 30%). It was 95 degrees in my garage, while I did my foam job.
Before I started, I first wrapped my drop-in storage in plastic. The reason why I did this, was to prevent the foam from adhering to the storage while I set it in the cavity to be filled. The foam doesn't stick to plastic, making it easy to remove the storage and help create a cavity within the foam. I'll show you what I mean in a little bit.
To make sure my storage containers where going to be properly under the hatches and inline, I duct taped the storage underneath my back decks. That way they wouldn't slip or move when I added the foam solution. I was not sure (at this point in the progress) how the foam was going to react.
Alright, so this is what I am working with. I have my 2-part foam, some cheap plastic cups, a couple stir sticks, a Sharpie. I also added a two plastic mixing cups and lots of rubber gloves.
I started out small first, and conducted a test to see how the foam would play out. I labeled two cups, A & B, each cup for the different chemical. I also drew a line around the cup to mark where to stop while pouring. There is no complex measuring here. It is a simple 1:1 ratio per the instructions on the foam containers. Also notice the different colors in the cups due to the different solutions.
From there, I grabbed a dedicated plastic mixing cup (large enough to hold both solutions) and poured them together into the cup.
After pouring, just simply stir the foam components together for about 25 seconds keeping an eye on it and starting to get thicker and expanding.
After the foam starts to expand, you have to move quickly and start pouring. I used a cardboard to see how the foam would expand and react. It kinda looks like pancake batter.
After pouring I let it sit and watched how far it would expand.
Getting bigger.
This stuff doesn't take to long to set up and expand. It will set up and harden in a few minuets. It also gets pretty warm and will stay that way until it cools. Don't touch it for a few minuets. After that it will feel spongy, then start to harden. I was able to stand on it after about 15 minuets and it was rock hard.
NOTE: The instructions recommend to pour foam in temperatures of 80 degrees or higher. Doing so, greatly expands the foam, thus saving you material. If you were to pour foam in 50 degree weather, the expansion ratio will be reduced quite a bit (I think about 30%). It was 95 degrees in my garage, while I did my foam job.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
So, now that I got an idea how this stuff works, it was time to pour the foam into the back cavities of the boat. I would HIGHLY recommend that you do your stirring over the area you intend to pour in. This stuff mixes fast and expands quickly in the cup. Stirring over the area to be poured will ensure you get it over the area quickly, and not making a mess all over your working area, floor, etc. while you are trying to run to your pouring area. See the below picture of what I mean.
You can pour the two parts together and not worry about it expanding until you start to mixing the solution together. Once you start mixing (again about 25 seconds) it will start to set up. You will also feel the mixture start to thicken up. You'll see when its ready to pour.
Here is what the first pour looks like after about two minuets setting up. Now, I did, however double my solution, unlike what I used for my test pour, to help fill in the cavity areas faster. I used two measuring methods. A small measure (which I called SINGLE) and a large one (called Double). That way I could fill in smaller areas, without having to use double amount of foam, and risk it going over the cavity. This way, I had some control over how much I wanted and needed.
Continuing the process...
Here is one of my storage boxes sitting in the foam, while the foam conforms and shapes around it. I had to work quickly here. First I poured into the area where the storage was going, then threw the back deck (with the storage box attached) right on top of the cavity while the foam was expanding. I let it sit for about 10 minuets before removing the deck.
As you can see, the foam formed around the storage box and created a built in area that the box can sit in and be supported. With the box wrapped in plastic it was able to be pulled out. It did take a bit of wiggling and lifting, but it came out. The box fits pretty snug.
Pouring some more foam into the cavity and filling up the sides to support the storage boxes.
Here is what one of the storage cavities look like.
You can also reuse your mixing cups, if you want, to save some money. Just let it set and dry, then chip it out with a putty knife or pull it out with your fingers. Most of the time it pull out in one piece and the cup will be clean. This worked with the plastic cups I used.
It took me about two hours to fill in both cavities and I was happy with the results. Make sure you wear rubber gloves and not get that crap on your hands. Its a PIA to wash and get off. The whole process was pretty easy to do and I think anybody can do it. I was done for the day after this. It was just way to **** hot working in the garage to go on, plus it was getting late. The rest of the deck should be on tomorrow and hopefully I can get the motor on Saturday. Good luck with your foam if you plan to use it.
You can pour the two parts together and not worry about it expanding until you start to mixing the solution together. Once you start mixing (again about 25 seconds) it will start to set up. You will also feel the mixture start to thicken up. You'll see when its ready to pour.
Here is what the first pour looks like after about two minuets setting up. Now, I did, however double my solution, unlike what I used for my test pour, to help fill in the cavity areas faster. I used two measuring methods. A small measure (which I called SINGLE) and a large one (called Double). That way I could fill in smaller areas, without having to use double amount of foam, and risk it going over the cavity. This way, I had some control over how much I wanted and needed.
Continuing the process...
Here is one of my storage boxes sitting in the foam, while the foam conforms and shapes around it. I had to work quickly here. First I poured into the area where the storage was going, then threw the back deck (with the storage box attached) right on top of the cavity while the foam was expanding. I let it sit for about 10 minuets before removing the deck.
As you can see, the foam formed around the storage box and created a built in area that the box can sit in and be supported. With the box wrapped in plastic it was able to be pulled out. It did take a bit of wiggling and lifting, but it came out. The box fits pretty snug.
Pouring some more foam into the cavity and filling up the sides to support the storage boxes.
Here is what one of the storage cavities look like.
You can also reuse your mixing cups, if you want, to save some money. Just let it set and dry, then chip it out with a putty knife or pull it out with your fingers. Most of the time it pull out in one piece and the cup will be clean. This worked with the plastic cups I used.
It took me about two hours to fill in both cavities and I was happy with the results. Make sure you wear rubber gloves and not get that crap on your hands. Its a PIA to wash and get off. The whole process was pretty easy to do and I think anybody can do it. I was done for the day after this. It was just way to **** hot working in the garage to go on, plus it was getting late. The rest of the deck should be on tomorrow and hopefully I can get the motor on Saturday. Good luck with your foam if you plan to use it.
You think "self tapping screws would work as good or better for building the deck? Obviously rivers through anything that goes through the hull..
What rivets did you use?
Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom
What rivets did you use?
Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom
Shoedawg
Well-known member
beagler1 said:
I used an assortment of different sized rivets and types. I used solid rivets for below wine (those you have to buck) and pop rivets. I am not sure about self tapping screws for your deck work. I had some I pulled out on the old wooden deck, and they were in bad shape and rusted up. They were a PIA to get out too, but thank is what the prior owner used. Try posting your question of the Boat House threads. You should get some feedback there.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Well I got the motor on the boat today. Sorry no pictures on it yet. The motor starts up but isn't getting enough fuel. Since the motor has been sitting so long, I assume the carburetor needs to be cleaned, so that is what I plan on doing tomorrow morning. I did get the back deck mounted and riveted down, but spent most the day playing with the motor. I'll post the carb cleaning job sometime this week. Crossing my fingers they are just gummed up and dirty.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
I explain the the process of "bucking" on page 10 of my thread. Its about half way down the page. Look for the picture of the hammer. It starts there.
Here is the link to it: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=33272&start=135
Here is the link to it: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=33272&start=135
Shoedawg
Well-known member
WOW!!! Its been 3 months since I posted!! Sorry for the delay everyone, but I was busy the last three months. I was on vacation, busy at work and home, and broke my wrist. But I do have great news:
I FINISHED PROJECT SHOEBOX!!!!
I actually finished it up on the 20th of June. I had plans to go to Montana for a week on the lake at the end of June and really wanted to take the boat with me. I put in about 18 hour days for about a week (on my off days) to make sure I was taking her with me. It was A LOT of work, but I did it and was able to finally put her on the water for the first time since I bought the boat almost 2 years ago.
Now, she isn't 100% finished. I would say she is about 95% done. Just have to redo some wiring and little stuff here and there, but she is functional and I'll explain how she did on the water later on in this thread.
But lets start back to where I left off the carb cleaning.
After I got the motor back on, and ran her up and she was having some trouble. I figured the carbs were dirty and gunky from the old fuel that had been sitting in the fuel bowls for 2 years.
I was not really sure how to clean carbs on a OB and never had before. I had downloaded a Merc manual for my motor and watched a few YouTube videos on how to do it. The process was pretty easy and straight forward. Here is one of the carbs. I am about to screw out the fuel plug for the fuel bowl to drain it of left over fuel.
NOTE: Make sure you mark your carbs in the order that you found them. I marked my Top, Middle, Bottom, so I knew which carb was what and where it went when I put the back on the motor. Also keep the parts of that carb together and not scattered all over your work bench. That way those parts go with their intended carb.
Here is the bottom inside of one of the fuel bowls in the carb. Notice all that gunk? It needed to be cleaned out.
To clean up all the carbs I soaked the down and let them sit for about half a day with some Mercury Power Tune.
After a nice soak, I used a brass brush to clean the rest of the carbs up. They look a hell of a lot better than before and really needed to be cleaned.
I also had to purchase a new gasket kit for the carbs. The original ones were worn and torn. Here is one of the carbs with all it's part and new gaskets.
Putting on the final touches of the last carb. Now I could add them back onto the motor.
After getting them back on, I fired up the motor and tuned the carbs a bit and she was running up just fine and idling good, but not great, but better than before.
I FINISHED PROJECT SHOEBOX!!!!
I actually finished it up on the 20th of June. I had plans to go to Montana for a week on the lake at the end of June and really wanted to take the boat with me. I put in about 18 hour days for about a week (on my off days) to make sure I was taking her with me. It was A LOT of work, but I did it and was able to finally put her on the water for the first time since I bought the boat almost 2 years ago.
Now, she isn't 100% finished. I would say she is about 95% done. Just have to redo some wiring and little stuff here and there, but she is functional and I'll explain how she did on the water later on in this thread.
But lets start back to where I left off the carb cleaning.
After I got the motor back on, and ran her up and she was having some trouble. I figured the carbs were dirty and gunky from the old fuel that had been sitting in the fuel bowls for 2 years.
I was not really sure how to clean carbs on a OB and never had before. I had downloaded a Merc manual for my motor and watched a few YouTube videos on how to do it. The process was pretty easy and straight forward. Here is one of the carbs. I am about to screw out the fuel plug for the fuel bowl to drain it of left over fuel.
NOTE: Make sure you mark your carbs in the order that you found them. I marked my Top, Middle, Bottom, so I knew which carb was what and where it went when I put the back on the motor. Also keep the parts of that carb together and not scattered all over your work bench. That way those parts go with their intended carb.
Here is the bottom inside of one of the fuel bowls in the carb. Notice all that gunk? It needed to be cleaned out.
To clean up all the carbs I soaked the down and let them sit for about half a day with some Mercury Power Tune.
After a nice soak, I used a brass brush to clean the rest of the carbs up. They look a hell of a lot better than before and really needed to be cleaned.
I also had to purchase a new gasket kit for the carbs. The original ones were worn and torn. Here is one of the carbs with all it's part and new gaskets.
Putting on the final touches of the last carb. Now I could add them back onto the motor.
After getting them back on, I fired up the motor and tuned the carbs a bit and she was running up just fine and idling good, but not great, but better than before.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Here is the back of the boat. I needed to get the back deck mounted and riveted down. The foam did it's job and the drop-in storage fit in the foam real well.
I also installed the gas tank and added a new fuel hose and vent line to the tank.
Here is the back of the deck all completed, with everything riveted down and Hydroturf applied. This deck is SOLID and will support a lot of weight. The hatches, cup holder and fishing rods are easy to get to as well. I am really happy with the results.
Here is the console installed. Just needed to had the steering assembly to it and windshield and gauges.
With the console installed, I still needed to finish up the seating for the driver and passenger bench, build the rod locker and add the throttle controller to the side. I still had a loooong ways to go.
Here is the controller, the steering wheel and seats installed.
The next PIA job was installing the rubbing rail. This took FOREVER to do. I think I spent like 4 hours getting it on. I read somewhere to help make the install easier was to put the rubber strip into a bucket of hot water and some soap and let it sit. I guess its suppose to make the process easier, but I couldn't tell you if it did or not. Here the stripping sitting in hot water and soap (hoping to make it more flexible).
I used a plastic putty knife and a rubber mallet to help me tap it in. This was such a ooooh so fun project (sarc off)!!
I worked late into the night getting this done. My hands were cramped and sore afterwards. Not easy to do. But here are the finished results, taken in the morning. I am glad I bought some rub rail. It looks great on the boat.
I also installed the gas tank and added a new fuel hose and vent line to the tank.
Here is the back of the deck all completed, with everything riveted down and Hydroturf applied. This deck is SOLID and will support a lot of weight. The hatches, cup holder and fishing rods are easy to get to as well. I am really happy with the results.
Here is the console installed. Just needed to had the steering assembly to it and windshield and gauges.
With the console installed, I still needed to finish up the seating for the driver and passenger bench, build the rod locker and add the throttle controller to the side. I still had a loooong ways to go.
Here is the controller, the steering wheel and seats installed.
The next PIA job was installing the rubbing rail. This took FOREVER to do. I think I spent like 4 hours getting it on. I read somewhere to help make the install easier was to put the rubber strip into a bucket of hot water and some soap and let it sit. I guess its suppose to make the process easier, but I couldn't tell you if it did or not. Here the stripping sitting in hot water and soap (hoping to make it more flexible).
I used a plastic putty knife and a rubber mallet to help me tap it in. This was such a ooooh so fun project (sarc off)!!
I worked late into the night getting this done. My hands were cramped and sore afterwards. Not easy to do. But here are the finished results, taken in the morning. I am glad I bought some rub rail. It looks great on the boat.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
It was time to tackle the rod locker. I don't have a lot of pictures for it, because I was short on time and trying to finish this up before I left. I only had one day to get it done, because I was leaving the next morning to go to Montana.
Here is the inside framing I did.
The wall about to be attached.
The back end of the locker. This was a pretty challenging fit, but I was pretty happy with the results.
I got the locker finished just in time, but didn't get to put the Hydroturf on until I got to Montana. Here is the locker all finished up. I still need to address the bare aluminium surrounding the top of the locker, but I was fine with it as it is for now.
I also bought some new seats. I had the old one's on there, but they were in pretty bad shape. Plus the new ones really look good on the boat.
A couple of views of the boat completed.
Here is the inside framing I did.
The wall about to be attached.
The back end of the locker. This was a pretty challenging fit, but I was pretty happy with the results.
I got the locker finished just in time, but didn't get to put the Hydroturf on until I got to Montana. Here is the locker all finished up. I still need to address the bare aluminium surrounding the top of the locker, but I was fine with it as it is for now.
I also bought some new seats. I had the old one's on there, but they were in pretty bad shape. Plus the new ones really look good on the boat.
A couple of views of the boat completed.
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