Redecking a Bass Tracker

[Blkrvrbart]

More progress last night. Mostly reriveting what was loose. Definitely going with aluminum decking. Welded the bow damage.

 

[eshaw]

Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.

Why is that?

 

[gatorglenn]

I will be using this, to replace my foam. It’s use by a lot of the boat racing community. And it can be sculpted to your needs in areas where drainage is a must. Then Iam spraying truck bed line from cans. On top so water won’t sit on it to eventually soak in and saturate. This was my problem. It is closed cell foam. And is 1.75 pounds per cubic feet. Same as what was in these Trackers. Good luck with your build.


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[Blkrvrbart]

On the topic of aluminum and silicones, I use silicone on aluminum frequently in very wet locations with no ill effects. Maybe lock stock and two barrels has some reasoning behind his logic, but I am still planning to use silicone as a vibration damper more than anything. A high modulus silicone works really well for that. You don’t want too much in case you need to disassemble. Just enough in the right places to stop vibrations and oilcanning. Anybody?

 

[Blkrvrbart]

I will be using this, to replace my foam. It’s use by a lot of the boat racing community. And it can be sculpted to your needs in areas where drainage is a must. Then Iam spraying truck bed line from cans. On top so water won’t sit on it to eventually soak in and saturate. This was my problem. It is closed cell foam. And is 1.75 pounds per cubic feet. Same as what was in these Trackers. Good luck with your build.


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Thanks! I’ll check it out. Getting pretty close to that step.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Got the foam board installed last night. Was able to do the bow flotation foam out of foam board with spray foam in the gaps. Finished the top of the stacks with some of the original styrofoam. It’s better than the random chunks that were in there before. Might build up the bow deck higher to meet the bow step. One big platform 7” higher would be better.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Looked into building up the front deck and read the “decking when or when not to” thread. The rear seat is going to be up on a deck over the top of the two flotation wells, so I decided to keep the front deck stock height. If it seems stable, maybe next year we’ll raise the front deck, but I’d rather have stability for my folks than height. Just about ready for carpet.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Carpet is 95% done. Need some piano hinge to mount the storage doors and rear deck access. Then to put the console back in and connect wiring.

 

[onthewater102]

I have a tracker III and I really like the way you've got that storage area under the bow cap. I was struggling with how I was going to tastefully mate a u-shaped piece up to the deck.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.

Why is that?

I didn't see this until today.
IIRC Silicone has an acid in it that can damage the aluminum. Loctite 2 in1 caulk is safe to use with aluminum.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Onthewater102: I can’t take credit for the bow storage compartment. It was already there. I did simulate it for a 24”w x 16” deep stow hole under the bow deck. When they are finished they will have a rectangular door on them. Good for cords, rope, lunch, rainwear.

Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.

Why is that?

I didn't see this until today.
IIRC Silicone has an acid in it that can damage the aluminum. Loctite 2 in1 caulk is safe to use with aluminum.

In construction we use acid cure 100% silicone with aluminum all the time. The acid in the raw silicone etches the oxidized surface of the aluminum enough to let the silicone bond to it, but as the silicone cures the acid is released and won’t harm the aluminum. Not looking for an argument, just relaying knowledge handed down to me. I have gotten away from disagreeing on forums, but a forum actually means a place to discuss, so if anyone has better wisdom, please feel free to add it here. Otherwise, well, otherwise would be just otherwise.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Well, tonight I tried bending the 1/4” plexiglass blank I had cut out for the windshield. I have a few hints if you’re interested. Cut a scrap piece and dink around with it. When you bend the real McCoy, clamp it down to a flat surface on foil, use a piece of wood to hold the bend line where you want it. Do not try to bend it too soon, it’ll crack. Use a Mapp torch for heat. Don’t get it too hot or you’ll have bubbles.
That might save you some headaches. Good luck.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

More progress.

 

[gatorglenn]

More progress.

ok what screws did you use in the floor. Iam having a hard time matching the ones that came out of my floor. Thanks


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[ckhenshaw4]

Your build looks great. Nice work.

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[Blkrvrbart]

Second try on the windshield was better. It’s not perfect but it’ll work. Also took the wheel hubs apart on the trailer. New bearings, races, seals, washers, castle nuts, and hub savers. I polished the axle shafts and seal land, too. Surprised it made the 35 mile trip home.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

More progress.

ok what screws did you use in the floor. Iam having a hard time matching the ones that came out of my floor. Thanks


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They are stainless steel lath head number 8 self drilling screws. When you get through the top plate you have to reverse the impact, strip out that hole and then drive the screw in tight. Everything drew down nice.

 

[gatorglenn]

Thanks, yea they are soft. Real easy to strip. Local Fastenal store, and but box store. Didn’t have any. They had the stainless steel coated ones. Didn’t want those because they will rust over time. And I do like the way they pull down. And disappear in the carpet Iam using.


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[Blkrvrbart]

Well, it’s done far as I can get it. Need to make the maiden voyage before I hand it over to them. Runs good out of the water, but needs to be ran a while to make sure it’ll restart hot. Hope this has been helpful to someone, and thanks for your help. Let’s go fishing!

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Thanks, yea they are soft. Real easy to strip. Local Fastenal store, and but box store. Didn’t have any. They had the stainless steel coated ones. Didn’t want those because they will rust over time. And I do like the way they pull down. And disappear in the carpet Iam using.


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I am serious about stripping out the hole in the decking. As soon as you get through the decking material, before you cut into the framing, stop your drill( or driver) , REVERSE IT, and “strip out” the hole in the decking. After you do that, set your drill or driver to forward and tighten the screw down without stripping the hole in the framing or snapping off the screw. This will tighten down the decking to the framing without leaving a gap or breaking the screw. It takes less time and tools than predrilling. It’ll come easy by the fourth screw.