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Removable Pedestal Seat
- Thread starter tomflkeys
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richg99
Well-known member
No, but I've used the standard pedestal seats available at Academy ( and a zillion other places) in salt water for years. The bases are stainless, but the welded portion that holds the shaft is not.
Rinse everything off when you clean the boat; add oil on the moving parts, and they seem to last for years. richg99
https://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_10773_-1?cm_mmc=pla-_-Boating+Marine+Boat+Seats+Boat+Seat+Accessories-_-Google-_-Attwood+Lock+N-Pin+Base+Plate&sku=003488236&gclid=Cj0KEQjwo_y4BRD0nMnfoqqnxtEBEiQAWdA129ytIkCsvdIc4wsyQS2s7xv9HZ-K23YLOPpg3PQk1loaAj9I8P8HAQ&kwid=productads-adid%5E69707526558-device%5Ec-plaid%5E78041577318-sku%5E003488236-adType%5EPLA
Rinse everything off when you clean the boat; add oil on the moving parts, and they seem to last for years. richg99
https://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_10773_-1?cm_mmc=pla-_-Boating+Marine+Boat+Seats+Boat+Seat+Accessories-_-Google-_-Attwood+Lock+N-Pin+Base+Plate&sku=003488236&gclid=Cj0KEQjwo_y4BRD0nMnfoqqnxtEBEiQAWdA129ytIkCsvdIc4wsyQS2s7xv9HZ-K23YLOPpg3PQk1loaAj9I8P8HAQ&kwid=productads-adid%5E69707526558-device%5Ec-plaid%5E78041577318-sku%5E003488236-adType%5EPLA
Thank you for your help. The base that I have used in the past have been pretty good, but I am having a problem with the part that attaches to the seat. It rusts and the rust falls off and stains everything. Again, thanks for your help.
Tom, Welcome Aboard !!
There are a couple of members here that are "Keys Enthusiasts".
my advice would be to look at other boats in your area and
see what they are using - ask around the marinas.
people "up here" don't fully understand the harsh salty elements
of the Keys. It is not just the salt, it is the finely ground up coral dust
that eats everything up in combination with the salt.
Like Rich said, some parts of the base and spindle may not be stainless.
(and like you have experienced with the seat mount).
rust stains on a nice finish is a pain (as you know).
do you have access to someone that does specialty welding in stainless and aluminum ??
have a couple made to your specs - one time and done.
post up some pics of the nice grouper and snapper you catch down there !
There are a couple of members here that are "Keys Enthusiasts".
my advice would be to look at other boats in your area and
see what they are using - ask around the marinas.
people "up here" don't fully understand the harsh salty elements
of the Keys. It is not just the salt, it is the finely ground up coral dust
that eats everything up in combination with the salt.
Like Rich said, some parts of the base and spindle may not be stainless.
(and like you have experienced with the seat mount).
rust stains on a nice finish is a pain (as you know).
do you have access to someone that does specialty welding in stainless and aluminum ??
have a couple made to your specs - one time and done.
post up some pics of the nice grouper and snapper you catch down there !
richg99
Well-known member
The rust might be prevented (or at least slowed) by dipping the upper portion in Rustolum primer.
richg99
richg99
driz
Well-known member
POR15 that's what you want. Unscrew it from the seat base then wire wheel all the loose stuff off then paint with 2 coats of POR. Nasty stuff and if you get it on you then you will wear it a while so keep some lacquer thinner handy. That's what I use to clean the brush too. The cheapest place to get it is on Amazon or Ebay. Put that on and it won't rust again. If you use it on the top of anything it will fade in sunlight over time so needs to be clear coated or top coated. Don't let it sit too long between coats or you will have to scuff it before applying that top coat so it will adhere. Remember, loose (built up) rust has to go or the rust will break off later and expose it again so get rid of all the flaky crap then wipe it don good to get rid of the powder.
I doubt that you can use it on the sliding pole though but you could try. If brass bushed it probably would hold up for a while but if plastic it may work well. You could even touch it up yearly or as needed. Either way a wire wheel will strip it off later and you can go back to greasing.
Word of warning on that POR. I have a love hate relationship here. It is fantastic and not full of issocyanates so you don't need a moon suit to use. On the other hand it is moisture hardened which makes it a
Beach #-o to work with :twisted: Open the can and dump out no more than you will use then IMMEDIATELY drive the lid back on and I mean right now. Never pour any back in the can afterwards either or it will make the rest skim over or harden in the can. If you get any on the lid lip it will fuse the can to the lid and you will likely have to drill a hole and pour the rest out. The last can I got arrived that way right from the seller new. Actually many say that is the best way to use it, drill or punch , pour then reseal the hole with rubber plug ect. Another trick is pouring it into smaller and smaller glass jars as it gets used up. That way you don't lose any or much hardening in the can.
If you don't do a lot of that sort of stuff you probably are best to get the pint can. The quart isn't much more though. It ain't cheap but once you use it on rusty stuff you won't go back to anything else.
I doubt that you can use it on the sliding pole though but you could try. If brass bushed it probably would hold up for a while but if plastic it may work well. You could even touch it up yearly or as needed. Either way a wire wheel will strip it off later and you can go back to greasing.
Word of warning on that POR. I have a love hate relationship here. It is fantastic and not full of issocyanates so you don't need a moon suit to use. On the other hand it is moisture hardened which makes it a
Beach #-o to work with :twisted: Open the can and dump out no more than you will use then IMMEDIATELY drive the lid back on and I mean right now. Never pour any back in the can afterwards either or it will make the rest skim over or harden in the can. If you get any on the lid lip it will fuse the can to the lid and you will likely have to drill a hole and pour the rest out. The last can I got arrived that way right from the seller new. Actually many say that is the best way to use it, drill or punch , pour then reseal the hole with rubber plug ect. Another trick is pouring it into smaller and smaller glass jars as it gets used up. That way you don't lose any or much hardening in the can.If you don't do a lot of that sort of stuff you probably are best to get the pint can. The quart isn't much more though. It ain't cheap but once you use it on rusty stuff you won't go back to anything else.
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