rhino jet jon

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I really don't think youll need a spoon with the performance grate youll probably end up scrapping the spoon.
 
I don't know if I'd like the grate. One great benefit of my spoon is I can run through weed beds at speed and not clog the intake with trash. I figured it was due to how the spoon pushed the weeds away while sucking the water up the reverse slope and any vegetation would just slide across the grill. It also won't grab at anything that hits it (stick, rock ledges, etc).

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Ranchero - Yours looks very beefy, that is just another benefit of all metal design. My spoon has to connect alum & fiberglass both. Found a top load grate (Solas) on ebay for a good price, going to try both & see which one works best.
 
Well I finally figured out the engine problems turned out to be the fuel pump on the carb one of the gaskets were a little big and would allow the engine to idle but when you rev it up it would suck air , run great now
=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
 
brianb2247 said:
What have you guys done to fix porpoise issue

Trim tabs will extend the center of balance further forward without adding more weight up front. I ran into that issue with mine after doing a 1" step in the hull up to the bottom of the pod.
 
what do you guys recommened for trim tabs i see ones for 400 or ones for 150 what size too use,what have yall used
 
Went to home depot they carry behr paint products I bought two gallons of the deckover textured and had it colored sand stone bought a quart of glidden primer , dont buy the restore brand it is sand based and gets really hot the behr product is acrylic based and does well in the sun on a 90 degree day I kept my shoes off will post pics soon and also had to buy the special roller all cost me a little over a hundred bucks
 
Here is what I did on the back to protect the nozzle and reverse, I made the trim tabs to stop the high speed pourposing , still pourposes but its not as bad, will have to figure that one out still
 

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Are you using an OEM ride plate, or did you fabricate one?

Reason I ask is because I'm using a ride plate fabbed from 1/4" aluminum plate, and to combat porpoising, I bent a very slight downward angle on the last 2 inches of the plate.

With an OEM ride plate, you could still weld a tab on the back end, at a downward angle, and it would have the same effect.
 
I trashed the ride plate there was no way it would work I welded .0125 aluminum behind pumpthen welded the cover to that. I have thought about welding another piece of aluminum on the front leading edge and fabricate two adjusters in the back on each side of the nozzle to make an adjustable ride plate
 
I'd bend them more until you find the sweet spot. Just be aware that they are going to highly stressed and will break off unless you support the aft end.
 
i took out the boat recently messed with the trim tabs the boat didnt perform any better im thinking about redesinging the back end some kind of adjustable rideplate pod extensions right now they extend like 9 inches from the back and are unsupported im thinking at least 12 inches. i dont know but i think extending the back of the boat would make it ride better
 
You should be able to duct tape some plywood on the top of your existing tabs to see if the longer version is better. My hull with the pods planes smoother and flatter.
 
well I went ahead and removed the tabs on the back of the boat and traced the underside of the jet pump cover transfered it to a .190 piece of aluminum cut it out and mounted it on the underside of the housing and used stainless washers to shim it on the back side 1/2 inch took it out yesterday, its a totally different boat . wish id done this sooner will post pics soon
 

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