Smackdaddy's "Pole Dancer" 1652 Polar Kraft flush deck jet b

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Tested a 13" diameter 14 pitch triple cup three blade and a 13 1/2" 15 pitch triple cup three blade today and Jack Foreman determined that my notes indicated I need a 13 1/2" 16 pitch three blade heavy triple cup to get my holeshot and rpm range where I want it.
Not going for speed, she ran fully jacked up, trimmed out with trim tabs down in 6" and could go shallower. Jumped up in 6" like a champ but I want a little more. In the channel with the motor buried she ran 32mph at 5500 rpm but I rarely run with the jackplate all the way down when I can run it much higher and keep the prop out of harms way. The low water pickup primed itself perfectly and now I can run my motor completely out of the water and maintain consistent water pressure. No more worrying about water pressure!
 
I had time to go pick up my custom prop today and got it on the motor this morning. I am ready to run Sunday-Tuesday and take my wife sighg casting some reds and hopefully a few trout.
This is what true triple cup looks like on a prop!
14" 16 1/2 pitch hardcore hole shot prop from Jack Foreman at Crossroads Propeller. This guy designs props for Powertech. Strictly a shallow running prop meant to take off and run with half the prop out of the water. Top end is what it is, I am not in it for speed, 33 mph is about hull speed for my boat anyway.

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It runs great. 33 mph in deeper water and 25 when running fully jacked up and in 3-4". I love it so far. The only thing I plan on adding now is hydraulic steering to help maneuvering when running skinny to offset prop steer. That flats prop really bites the water.
 
I have finally gotten the hang of jumping up on plane in 8" of water fully jacked up and figured out how to tweak the trim tabs and trim the motor to run just as fast in 4" of water fully jacked up as it can in deep water with the motor all the way down. I am really happy with her!
Thanks for the support.
 
I put an in line water filter on my low water pickup intake to keep grass and trash out of the motor and it really works well and is easy to clean out on the water. I had to order a new warning module because the old one started giving me temperature alarms for no reason.
I have a redfish/trout tournament coming up Oct 3rd and another Oct9th. I am ready to put some fish on the scale!
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Paracord steering wheel wrap I laced up the other day to get some grip with wet hands.
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A few reds
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Poling
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I plan on cutting all the bottom and sides off and re-skinning with 1/8" sides and 3/16" bottom and 1/8" 2x2" angle for the strakes on bottom. No time soon but one day.
 
Hey Smack I just picked up a 1652 Weldbilt and I've been studying your build - its killer. I'll be using mine to fish for bass in MS lakes and also to chase reds inshore. Thinking about building the boat up with a flush floor sort of like yours.

What brand is that center console? Where'd you get it?

From some of the photos it looks a little tight to walk around the center console on the lower deck. Do you ever have an issue moving around in there, or ever wish it was slightly smaller?
 
smackdaddy53 said:
I plan on cutting all the bottom and sides off and re-skinning with 1/8" sides and 3/16" bottom and 1/8" 2x2" angle for the strakes on bottom. No time soon but one day.

Smack, this one post has cost me many sleepless nights. Possible? Know anyone who has/can do something like this? If you can strip and reskin , I should be able to strip, reskin, and add about 12 degrees of deadline with a smooth bottom.

I have looked at lots of new used boats recently, can't believe what Seaark, Excel, Alumacraft, etc get for a bare 20' 1/8" plate boat! Sure don't want to go back to having to wash and care for a plastic boat.


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Sorry I have not been on here in a while.
The console came off a Carolina Skiff but I cut it down and added a 6" riser on the bottom. I don't need to walk around the console, I just walk on the gunnels instead. I would have made the console as wide as the inside but wanted access to rod storage on either side so I left some space.

I am about to tackle re-skinning the whole bottom and sides with 3/16" bottom plate and 1/8" sides. Looking for ideas...


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Tough crowd here lately! I guess I will just post up step by step photos with detailed instructions for you guys to learn from. I guess no one ever did what I'm about to do to my boat, they probably just buy a new hull and modify it.
I decided to buy enough for sides and bottom and have some drop left for other stuff. A 96x240" sheet of 5086 1/8" should do the trick and I won't have to weld seams like I would with a shorter sheet.
9 sticks of 2x2x1/8" angle for strakes and 10 sticks of 1/8"x2" flat bar to weld to the existing frame front to back then spot weld the hull to it then weld continuous angle strakes over the spot welds. Not painting it this time.
I plan on selling my Minn Kota CoPilot 80 and going with a 55# thrust to eliminate one heavy battery and also do away with the house battery and just run a solo cranking battery to offset the extra weight of the thicker material.
I am going to pull all wiring, the console, fuel tank and poling platform to flip her over and drill out all hull rivets and neatly cut the hull apart to use as a pattern for the new sheet. I will weld 1/8"x2" flat bar longitudinally to the framework and run the sheet over it. I plan on spot welding the hull sheets to the flat bar and covering the welds with the angle strakes and welding them completely for strength.
Let me know what you guys think and if you have ever heard of anyone doing a "re-skin" like this let me know. I am sure I can pull it off.


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Finally finished reading this entire thread and i am quite impressed. new to the site and not planning on anything near as extensive as yours but love to read about people customizing and modifying what they have to make it their own.

Very nice work!
 
Hey smackdaddy sounds like a big project and I'm not quite picturing how youll do it but I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with
 
Smack, sorry I've been gone a while. I didn't realize your boat was riveted, mine was welded but stumps on Livingston and rocks on the coast left dents on the underside of the boat. This and the rough ride of my flat bottom boat had me looking at what it would take to add some "Vee" to the hull.

About a month ago I sold the Weldcraft and bought a 21' bay boat that literally eats chop. I gave up about a foot and a half of draft, gained a plastic boat that has to be washed and waxed, but I gained a heck of a better ride.

And yes, I've started casually looking for my next tin, don't tell my wife.

Thanks


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I decided not to tackle that project. I just bought a Maverick HPX Tunnel so the Pole Dancer will be for sale if anyone is interested.


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