Thinking about stick steer

[amk]

My first steering was too short had to exchange it. Finally got it back. I've been dragging my feet on getting this tilt tube threaded to run through the boat but once I do it'll finally be ready to test out. I believe it will work the steering looks like it'll hold up under water.

 

[BigTerp]

Nice!!

 

[amk]

I lucked out a buddy had one threaded that was perfect. 5200 should be cured this afternoon. Yesterday when I fired my motor up it would run like it was wide open and die out if I gave it gas. I believe it's because I just bolted the carbs on and didn't put gasket maker down so I put a bead down and let it cure over night. Fingers crossed for that being the problem I'm ready to drive this thing.

 

[amk]

Well the gasket maker didn't work.. I did instal a primer kit so maybe that gas is messing it up it's got to be carb related if it's running wot then dying without me even touching the throttle any ideas?

 

[user 20022]

You can buy gasket material in pre cut squares at the auto parts stores. That might work.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

After i rebuilt my carbs I had a high idle problem. Turned out to be bad carb synch.

Also - You might have bad crankshaft seals. I think you can pressure test the crankcase to test them.

 

[amk]

I hope it's not a crank seal.. Pulling that motor is no fun.

 

[amk]

never use flex seal

 

[user 20022]

How did you prep before spraying on flex seal?

 

[amk]

No prep just sprayed. It's great if you don't ever have to remove it.

 

[amk]

Well the first week I had this boat almost two years ago I hit a rock cracked the pump finally pulled it apart to swap a new in and fix all leaks man was it cracked.

 

[amk]

I took my motor and carbs in turns out one had a air leak on the manifold that holds the individual carbs together and it also had a stuck needle valve so one carb was fine and the other was giving no fuel and excess air. Perfect conditions for runaway lean. Now I can start putting it back together.

 

[bellman]

I took my motor and carbs in turns out one had a air leak on the manifold that holds the individual carbs together and it also had a stuck needle valve so one carb was fine and the other was giving no fuel and excess air. Perfect conditions for runaway lean. Now I can start putting it back together.

If you ever do have a lean runaway, pull the lanyard and give the motor full throttle. It's hard to make yourself do that, but it'll kill the motor every time.

 

[bellman]

Here are a couple of pics of my homemade stick steer. It's just a wedge made of PVC board made to attach to the gunnel. The "stick" you see coming through the slot is the steering stick. The lever on the side is a multi detent trim lever to get the nose out of the water in wave trains and to adjust the attitude of the boat to ride the way I want it to. The box also has the on/off/reserve petcock mounted and will have the start/stop switch mounted on it. The primer plunger and MSD ignition on/off switch will be on it too. Pretty simple design, but it will work well. The stick is mounted through a piece of nylon rod with teflon bushings on either end with 8mm threaded rod for it's axle . It has zero backlash and still moves smoothly when tightened firmly. The trim trim lever is a piece of ancient billet wonderment that I snagged from a buddy :mrgreen: . It's from way back in the day when PWC were still major players. My steering and trim cable stops are at the pump housing through fittings and the ones for the steering box are bonded in romex connectors. The "stick itself will have a throttle lever and grip. I've left it long on purpose so I can cut it to taste once the last pieces of decking are in and I can see how it actually feels. The box is going to be mounted at the top to the gunnel with a bent to fit piece of al angle with 3 wingnuts and the mount to the floor/deck will be hinged so i can easily get in to adjust cable throw and anything else that may need attention.

 

[amk]

That's cool man if I woulda made my own I woulda saved some money for sure. My initial response to the stick steer was regret haha but I got pretty used to it after about an hour.

So shifting my weight to the back means when I slide over shallows I rub back at the pump and in the past year I've clogged my cooling line ten times and all ten times happened yesterday. Guess I'm finally going to get a strainer. Either a strainer or a seadoo fourtec.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

You guys amaze me how you can make it look so pro! My stuff works but definitely looks homemade.

 

[amk]

I agree I cant even cut hydroturf that straight haha.

 

[amk]

Thinking of ways to fix the cooling issue does anyone think if I ran a 12v dc water pump to a 2 hp motor coupled to a alternator and had a tank ~ 20-30 gallons and radiator that it would circulate enough cooling to sustain the jet motor heat load or would it be a waist of time? I don't know if I can reroute the water that flows out the exhaust or not either. Maybe just a screen over the intake hole in the pump or a strainer is my only hope.

 

[bellman]

Thinking of ways to fix the cooling issue does anyone think if I ran a 12v dc water pump to a 2 hp motor coupled to a alternator and had a tank ~ 20-30 gallons and radiator that it would circulate enough cooling to sustain the jet motor heat load or would it be a waist of time? I don't know if I can reroute the water that flows out the exhaust or not either. Maybe just a screen over the intake hole in the pump or a strainer is my only hope.

A smart thing to do is to run dual cooling. There is a round protrusion on your pump 180deg from where the stock cooling line connects. Drill a hole sized for 1/8" NPT (all the way through). Use a brass 1/8"NPT 3/8" 90 deg barbed fitting. Use the through hull fitting that was used for the stock siphon bilge line to pass through. Find where the line from the pump enters the motor (should be exhaust manifold) and drill and tap another fitting the same as you did at the pump. You'll probably need to restrict the outgoing water lines a bit so the engine temp is where you need it. Jetworks has very nice restrictor kits that come with different sized orifice inserts so you can get it exactly where you want it. Riva Yamaha makes pump strainer kits, but they're made for 155 & larger pumps. A screen at the pump won't flow enough water. Riva's strainer looks more like a bladed sewer grate. The most important thing is to angle your pissers in a way that you'll notice the instant water stops coming out. If it happens really often I'm sure you can adapt some kind of finned grate to keep crap out of the incoming water lines. A little goofy, but another way might be to put a T in the cooling line with the "T" line capped off. If you get clogged you could crimp the line downstream of the T and might be able to blow the trash back out of the line??? A little hair brained, but it might work. :?

Charles

 

[amk]

I read a thread where a guy mentioned getting dual cooling but I couldn't find any more info thanks for that. My solution yesterday was to run with my 8 gallon air compressor with a charged tank in my boat and when cooling would go away I'd stop and blow the lines. I'll look around hopfully I can find a dual cooling kit or the parts so I can run two lines with two strainers.