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Thomadgs's S-14 Build - "Jenny III"
- Thread starter thomasdgs
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Extreme
Member
Following.
Cant wait to see what's next
Looks great =D>
Cant wait to see what's next
Looks great =D>
This will likely be the final update for a while. Planning to use the boat for a while before I get into stage 2 of this build. Here she is, the Jenny III.
Some quick details on how I wired the courtesy lights. Aka white LED penny lights.
So far the casting deck has been working very well...
No more work this season, time to sit back and enjoy what ever is left before winter rolls in.
Some quick details on how I wired the courtesy lights. Aka white LED penny lights.
So far the casting deck has been working very well...
No more work this season, time to sit back and enjoy what ever is left before winter rolls in.
With only four months until next summer's fishing season opener, it's time to start planning mods I want to get done this year.
My number one goal for next season is to use the boat more. With not having the boat in the water until the beginning of September, I really didnt get to enjoy it much. My plan for this year is to only start projects than I can finish in one week (including having all my parts on hand before starting) to keep the boat sea worthy for as much of the open water season as possible.
Upgrades for this year:
-Two (maybe three) new seats with all new 3/4" king pin mounts and pedestals, with one extra deck plate on the casting deck.
- new fish finder / GPS. Garmin Striker plus 7 CV is my prime candidate.
-bow guides on the trailer. Launching in fast moving currents a lot of the time makes getting on the trailer difficult.
-install nav. lighting.
-switch panel.
And the two mods that will require most planning and be the biggest risk for eating up my fishing time....
-remove middle bench and install flat floor, with floatation underneath.
-port side rod locker/storage box.
What's your opinion on 3/4" king pin vs. 1 3/4" seat bases?
My number one goal for next season is to use the boat more. With not having the boat in the water until the beginning of September, I really didnt get to enjoy it much. My plan for this year is to only start projects than I can finish in one week (including having all my parts on hand before starting) to keep the boat sea worthy for as much of the open water season as possible.
Upgrades for this year:
-Two (maybe three) new seats with all new 3/4" king pin mounts and pedestals, with one extra deck plate on the casting deck.
- new fish finder / GPS. Garmin Striker plus 7 CV is my prime candidate.
-bow guides on the trailer. Launching in fast moving currents a lot of the time makes getting on the trailer difficult.
-install nav. lighting.
-switch panel.
And the two mods that will require most planning and be the biggest risk for eating up my fishing time....
-remove middle bench and install flat floor, with floatation underneath.
-port side rod locker/storage box.
What's your opinion on 3/4" king pin vs. 1 3/4" seat bases?
Adding this to the master list. Looking forward to round two.
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2016
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- Location
- Northern California
- LOCATION
- Northern California
That interior paint job is fantastic. It looks like it was a major amount of work, but I think it was well worth it. Nicely done and looking forward to the next phase(s).
Extreme
Member
Starting mine today.
Got the aluminum ordered and starting demo today.
Got the aluminum ordered and starting demo today.
Ern
New member
You did a great job! Looks good!
Ernie
Ernie
LDUBS said:
Thanks you! It was a lot of work, but the worst part was honestly researching which products and techniques to use, and then trying to find somewhere that I could actually buy those products. I am happy with how it turned out though, so that does make it all worth it.
I wish I had put more time into polishing the gunnels before painting it. No way I am taking a wire wheel (or any power polisher) to the gunnels now.
Extreme
Member
I started my new thread :beer:
Have you made any more progress.
I'm getting lots of great ideas from the members here.
This site is addicting
Have you made any more progress.
I'm getting lots of great ideas from the members here.
This site is addicting
Here we go.. Phase II.
Phase II is to include removing most of the center bench, installing a flat floor from the rear of what was the front bench to the front of the rear bench, installation and wiring of navigation lights and some other electrical work, and some other accessories like cup holders and seat mounts.
The area I plan to remove is outlined with green tape, and the marked with an X. The twine from the rear bench to the front show where side storage pods could go if I had my way. The main concern I have had and heard about his plan is that removing the middle bench will compromise the structural integrity of the hull. My way of ensuring the hull doesn't get too flexible is to leave enough of the bench there to transfer the stress from the gunwales to the floor (along the red marks).
I started on the electrical work by installing a socket on the bow plate, and routing the wire in previously install conduit to the back of the boat.
In order to make a clean hole in the carpet, and to keep the it from fraying, I heated a tire iron with a torch and melted a hole.
Phase II is to include removing most of the center bench, installing a flat floor from the rear of what was the front bench to the front of the rear bench, installation and wiring of navigation lights and some other electrical work, and some other accessories like cup holders and seat mounts.
The area I plan to remove is outlined with green tape, and the marked with an X. The twine from the rear bench to the front show where side storage pods could go if I had my way. The main concern I have had and heard about his plan is that removing the middle bench will compromise the structural integrity of the hull. My way of ensuring the hull doesn't get too flexible is to leave enough of the bench there to transfer the stress from the gunwales to the floor (along the red marks).
I started on the electrical work by installing a socket on the bow plate, and routing the wire in previously install conduit to the back of the boat.
In order to make a clean hole in the carpet, and to keep the it from fraying, I heated a tire iron with a torch and melted a hole.
I got out the saw, and made some cuts. It was a real struggle to convince myself to make irreversible changes to the factory structure. Until now, all changes I've made were reversible, I could put it back to factory if I wanted, so this is now entering a new level of mods in my mind.
Sub floor/frame made with a combination of 2x3 and 2x2 SPF. I realize some people prefer cedar, but we are building on a pandemic budget and my phase I framing was all SPF. Extra strength added to the front section for mounting a seat base.
Used G1S 1/2 plywood for the decking itself. My main reason for going G1S was less voids in the sheet, and over all improved stiffness and flatness. After doing cuts I have found more voids than I would have liked, and the top layer is delaminating while cutting much more than I would have liked. Still unsure if the doubled cost of G1S is worth it. Measured everything three times before cutting into a $60 sheet of material. You'll notice that port side of the sheet has a gap with the hull, the sheet was only 48" wide and I needed 50" at the rear most end. I opted to offset the sheet to the Starboard side to prevent any gap on that side, and I will be hiding the gap on the Port side later on.
I realized after cutting that the material out of the seat structure that we cut outs could be recycled for making a rod locker. I wished in hindsight that I had taken more care when cutting to leave myself with more material to play with when recycling the cut-outs. I should be able to trim them to fit to hide most of my rough edges, with the exception of one hole used for the starting a cut.
It is great to see my vision taking shape so quickly. I guess the port side rod locker is now a sure thing.
Next I will be removing all the wood to begin priming and painting, and begin the process of sourcing my vinyl and carpet supplies.
Sub floor/frame made with a combination of 2x3 and 2x2 SPF. I realize some people prefer cedar, but we are building on a pandemic budget and my phase I framing was all SPF. Extra strength added to the front section for mounting a seat base.
Used G1S 1/2 plywood for the decking itself. My main reason for going G1S was less voids in the sheet, and over all improved stiffness and flatness. After doing cuts I have found more voids than I would have liked, and the top layer is delaminating while cutting much more than I would have liked. Still unsure if the doubled cost of G1S is worth it. Measured everything three times before cutting into a $60 sheet of material. You'll notice that port side of the sheet has a gap with the hull, the sheet was only 48" wide and I needed 50" at the rear most end. I opted to offset the sheet to the Starboard side to prevent any gap on that side, and I will be hiding the gap on the Port side later on.
I realized after cutting that the material out of the seat structure that we cut outs could be recycled for making a rod locker. I wished in hindsight that I had taken more care when cutting to leave myself with more material to play with when recycling the cut-outs. I should be able to trim them to fit to hide most of my rough edges, with the exception of one hole used for the starting a cut.
It is great to see my vision taking shape so quickly. I guess the port side rod locker is now a sure thing.
Next I will be removing all the wood to begin priming and painting, and begin the process of sourcing my vinyl and carpet supplies.
Nice work man! :beer:
TexasWildcat
Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2020
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lookin good. need more updates! :mrgreen:
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