Transom reinforcement

[Houndlab]

Got a new Lowe 1448 jon. I asked the dealer whether or not the transom needed to be reinforced. He replied the boat was rated to carry up to 25 HP engines and that wood can be added to the outside of the transom. However, he explained, the wood only serves as a protector for the paint.

I am asking here because I have seen many, many aluminum Jon boats, like mine, with reinforced transoms. By reinforced, I mean there is wood bolted to the transom from the interior.

I am planning on getting a 15 or 20 HP engine, though, leaning to the 15. Is there a risk of damaging the integrity of the transom/hull if I do not reinforce it?

I appreciate the knowledge that is shared in this forum-thanks in advance!

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Use a transom saver when trailering. Boats are made to withstand a motor within their ratings on the water but all that shaking and bouncing on a trailer will kill it over time. Storage is also important, especially for a boat with wood in the transom. Keep under cover with the bow up and plug out.

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[Tbair]

3/4" marine wood would do it but if you're doing a 15hp (guessing newer 4stroke?) Its kinda hard to be taking the ob off and on just to take the boat out. Like the guy said above, transom saver for trailering keeps the weight on the trailer instead of the transom and keeps it from wiggling and flopping around. They're pretty cheap and easy, hell some you just slide on and bungee down. But if you want to save it without a single worry, pull it and store it in the bed of your truck on the life jackets to get there and slap that puppy on before launching. Congrats on the boat!

 

[Houndlab]

Use a transom saver when trailering. Boats are made to withstand a motor within their ratings on the water but all that shaking and bouncing on a trailer will kill it over time. Storage is also important, especially for a boat with wood in the transom. Keep under cover with the bow up and plug out.

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Ok! That’s makes sense. I am planning on getting a transom saver with the motor. I thought the reinforcement was needed in the water as well.

Thanks Weldor

 

[Houndlab]

3/4" marine wood would do it but if you're doing a 15hp (guessing newer 4stroke?) Its kinda hard to be taking the ob off and on just to take the boat out. Like the guy said above, transom saver for trailering keeps the weight on the trailer instead of the transom and keeps it from wiggling and flopping around. They're pretty cheap and easy, hell some you just slide on and bungee down. But if you want to save it without a single worry, pull it and store it in the bed of your truck on the life jackets to get there and slap that puppy on before launching. Congrats on the boat!

Thanks Tbair! I appreciate it. This is my first boat that I’ll own from new.
The boat will stay in the garage-should fit even with engine on. Would the 3/4” marine wood be necessary if I am installing a transom saver?

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

How about a picture of the transom?

If it doesn't have a knee brace, adding one would be the best use of resources.

 

[Houndlab]

Here is a picture CedarRiverScooter. What do you think?

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

I think you can clamp that motor on and you're good to go!

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[Houndlab]

Thanks Weldor-thats encouraging to hear.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

If your motor has the provision to be bolted on, once you get the height set the way you like it, you can bolt it on. I use a piece of 1/4 aluminum plate on the outside to help spread the forces out. That being said, I've always owned older boats that have been weakened by neglect.

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[CedarRiverScooter]

Looks like a clean boat!

Agree, good to go.

 

[Tbair]

3/4" marine wood would do it but if you're doing a 15hp (guessing newer 4stroke?) Its kinda hard to be taking the ob off and on just to take the boat out. Like the guy said above, transom saver for trailering keeps the weight on the trailer instead of the transom and keeps it from wiggling and flopping around. They're pretty cheap and easy, hell some you just slide on and bungee down. But if you want to save it without a single worry, pull it and store it in the bed of your truck on the life jackets to get there and slap that puppy on before launching. Congrats on the boat!

Thanks Tbair! I appreciate it. This is my first boat that I’ll own from new.
The boat will stay in the garage-should fit even with engine on. Would the 3/4” marine wood be necessary if I am installing a transom saver?

Unless you were going with like a 25 or 30horse in my opinion, transom looks pretty solid so a 15horse shouldn't have a trouble living on there with the transom saver for transport. If you know you're gonna hit dirt road with ruts or washboard I'd pull it off just to be safe. Good luck!

 

[maintenanceguy]

Aluminum is lightweight, resists corrosion, survives salt water well. But it also work hardens and becomes brittle. Bouncing a motor down the highway will eventually damage an aluminum transom. 90% of aluminum boats survive a long, long time and never have a problem. 10% do. I think you can't go wrong with some reinforcing. It looks like there is a knee brace in the way of installing much reinforcing on the interior. I don't think reinforcing on the exterior does much since the transom center wants to bend toward the rear. A board on the inside prevents that.

I went overboard with my boat but here's what I did. Right behind the rear bench seat, I installed a piece of stainless rectangular tubing. I welded a plate on each end and bolted that to the hull. A pair of stainless threaded rods ties the transom to that tubing on either side of my outboard. This photo was taken while I was painting the boat.

 

[Houndlab]

Looks like a clean boat!

Agree, good to go.

Thank you

 

[Houndlab]

Maintenanceguy, your support looks pretty solid. Could you please post a picture of the plate (from the bench looking at the transom)?

I want to proceed with caution and reservation. By that, I mean, I want to do what I need to do to preserve the boat. But not to the point where I’m drilling holes and later, possibly regretting having done it.

I appreciate the feedback I’m getting on this forum.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Usually only the holes drilled below waterline are a problem.

 

[maintenanceguy]

Maintenanceguy, your support looks pretty solid. Could you please post a picture of the plate (from the bench looking at the transom)?

I want to proceed with caution and reservation. By that, I mean, I want to do what I need to do to preserve the boat. But not to the point where I’m drilling holes and later, possibly regretting having done it.

I appreciate the feedback I’m getting on this forum.

Here's a photo I just took of the interior of the Transom. I did add an aluminum plate to the interior but not for transom strength. The boat had this plate when I bought it and I put it back in. Frankly, I don't think it does any thing.

I did this reinforcing project because the knee brace had cracked where it was attached to the floor. The transom was fine but if the knee brace cracked, I figured something was flexing more than it should. Nothing moves now.

 

[Houndlab]

Ok, I see. Yeah, the cracked knee would negate any stability it is designed to offer. I’m liking what I’m learning about aluminum boats.

My biggest like is that they are light in weight. I only notice that I’m pulling something on uphills. And even then, it’s minimal resistance.

 

[Zlakin]

Examine the extra parts, particularly while welding and riveting transom reinforcements. Set wedges in place to eliminate porpoising and mild bending for a smoother stride. Connections for a transom diverter are another handy addition. It will shield your boat's transom, motor, and hull from harm. An aluminum bottom plate aids in engine installation while also shielding the transom or stern beam from cracking.

 

[Still Afloat]

I have basically the same boat, a Lowe 1448M. The M has the mod-V bow. Otherwise, the same boat.

My outboard is a Merc F25 EFI Jet which means it uses the 30hp powerhead. The motor weighs close to 200 pounds and the boat needs pods or more weight near the bow than I want.

I’m not that worried about the the transom but, the motor needs to be raised a couple of inches. The plan is aluminum square tubing above the transom and 3/16” plate on both sides extending down the transom a few inches. The 3/16” Al plate is overkill in my opinion but, I may go with a slightly larger jet down the road.

I would not hesitate to hang a 15 to 20hp on the transom of this boat without any modifications. If you step up to 25hp four stroke then it may be heavy in the stern and you will need to compensate with weight towards the bow.

I’m personally more concerned with the hull thickness than the transom strength.