Trolling motor mount

[S.E.R.E.NITY NOW]

I've mounted my trolling motor to the bow plate using the rubber washers that came with it to try and level it out as the bow on the Smokercraft Alaskan is upswept and the motor wouldn't sit level. The problem now is the motor doesn't feel solid it has some bounce to it as the quick release plate doesn't sit flat in the bow plate. Anyone have any suggestions? Will taking the rubber washers out and replacing them with steel ones be enough to stiffen it up or do I need to build up the bow plate some how to get a level mount?

 

[airshot]

Try sandwiching the rubber between SS washers, less rubber equals less movement. Play around with how much rubber and how many washers. My mount has only 1 rubber washer at each mounting spot, the rest of the gap is made up of SS washers. Little movement yet vibration free !

 

[S.E.R.E.NITY NOW]

How level does it actually need to be? The shaft still isn't perfectly plumb when deployed.

 

[Billy H]

I wouldn’t recommend stacking washers with a gap that size. Source yourself a piece of aluminum stock the right thickness that’s about two inches wide, cut to width of your mount run your bolts thru that. Will be nice and solid. Another option, If your gap between mount and boat is an inch you could cut a strip of one of those rubber stall mats and sandwich that in between, maybe use a washer or two if need be.That would be very stable as well. Stay away from wood.

 

[TAB]

I wouldn’t recommend stacking washers with a gap that size. Source yourself a piece of aluminum stock the right thickness that’s about two inches wide, cut to width of your mount run your bolts thru that. Will be nice and solid. Another option, If your gap between mount and boat is an inch you could cut a strip of one of those rubber stall mats and sandwich that in between, maybe use a washer or two if need be.That would be very stable as well. Stay away from wood.

Go to the dollar store or second hand store and get some cutting boards . Adjust to fill in the gap . Never rot .

 

[Still Afloat]

Steel and aluminum don’t play well together. Use an aluminum spacer or SS.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

The rubber isolation washers should be on each mounting bolt. It looks like you might have not used the front ones to double up on the back. You could end up with some nasty vibration noises when the trolling motor is on high. I agree with others, need to shim with something more substantial than washers. A welded on plate is probably the best solution.

IMO, the trolling should be as close to level, as you can get it, while it is sitting in the water, with its "normal" weight distribution. That way, you stay in the ballpark with changing loads. The trolling motor is still going to "work", just not going to be as efficient. It might cause some slightly more stress on the electric turning mechanisms. Not sure if it would impact the internal compass if it is a GPS model. Best to talk with MK tech support.

 

[LDUBS]

Go to the dollar store or second hand store and get some cutting boards . Adjust to fill in the gap . Never rot .

I milled some starboard which is basically the same as cutting board so my TM would sit flat on the compound curves of my bow deck. Looks to me like a couple of HDPE (cutting board) shims to fill the gap would take care of the issue.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

If you are going to shim the gap, try to use 6 mounting bolts vs four.

 

[airshot]

How level does it actually need to be? The shaft still isn't perfectly plumb when deployed.

Just eyeball plumb is close enough when boat is in the water. Boat never sits perfectly still or plumb anyway...

 

[airshot]

Not sure what the issue with SS washers are, mine ( same motor but older model) has been on washers and rubber washers since 2011 with 0 issues. Never moved, no vibration, GPS works great, guess I don't understand the washer concern.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Not sure what the issue with SS washers are, mine ( same motor but older model) has been on washers and rubber washers since 2011 with 0 issues. Never moved, no vibration, GPS works great, guess I don't understand the washer concern.

It is a rather large gap, and suspect it will be more than pictured, if the rubber mounts weren't on the front. I think with stacked washers, more susceptible to bolt twisting/leaning sideways, under torque. Not sure what size trolling motor the OP is putting on, but some boats only support up to 80lb thrust. And that is with a flat mounting on a boat designed for it.

Not saying washers wouldn't work, it was just a recommendation based on the stack size. If the OP attemps that, then highly recommend six mounting bolts.

 

[airshot]

It is a rather large gap, and suspect it will be more than pictured, if the rubber mounts weren't on the front. I think with stacked washers, more susceptible to bolt twisting/leaning sideways, under torque. Not sure what size trolling motor the OP is putting on, but some boats only support up to 80lb thrust. And that is with a flat mounting on a boat designed for it.

Not saying washers wouldn't work, it was just a recommendation based on the stack size. If the OP attemps that, then highly recommend six mounting bolts.

Mine uses fender washers, much larger than regular washers with an 1/8" thick rubber washer sandwiched in between.