Where do i start?

[sbritt23]

Got a brand new alumacraft 1648NCS today and i dont know where to start the deck on it is already huge as it is but i feel im going to have to extend it out at least to the 2nd rib to make some room for storage. all i really need is room for a battery up front and life jackets and i dont feel like taking the side grinder to a brand new boat and cutting a hatch in the front deck and having to remove foam. what do youll suggest also looking for suggestions for the stern maybe somewhere i can put a battery besides the main hole where the gas tank can go. I really dont wanna go the wood route if i dont have too dont wanna add too much extra weight to the boat. so any suggestions would be great here is a few pics of it

 

[BrazosDon]

Hey, Britt, I have a 14'X48'' Alumacraft and I use it for everything. First off what purpose are you going to use the boat. My thoughts are to go back to the third rib from the front and make an insert made with aluminum diamond plate and support system with a bass seat or one of the standing half seat so you can take it all out when duck hunting(haveing lot of room for a duck blind). It looks like you will still have room to put in rod/gun boxes between the insert deck and the back bench. I will not take the middle bench out of my boat because I don't want to loose the integrity of strength of the boat. Since your 's started out from the factory with a lot of room, that would be the way I would approach the situation adding a floor. You can remove the front deck and make a very big duck blind. rear deck and whatever would be what ever you want Remembe the weight factor my friend. My 2% of a dollar. Enjoy your build. BrazosDon

 

[BrazosDon]

Someone else jump in here and help Britt out. He has a fine canvas to work with. I only voiced my opinion if it was my boat. Help him out!!!

 

[thudpucker]

I have a similar boat. The only thing I've done is make a big flat bottom deck for all that space. You can take a nap, let the kids play etc with all that space.
You need to put a seat up front and mount the FF, drop down control and lights up on that front deck.

 

[sbritt23]

I'm a commercial flounder gigger so I went with this boat so I would have plenty of room to get to the bow without having to step over anything. I will be hook and line fishing out of this boat also as well as duck hunting. My biggest concern is building off the front deck to make some storage for life jackets anchor and a trolling motor battery. Not really wanting to use wood but it would be cheaper to go that route. Would love to use aluminum but then I would have to pay someone for welding I just want a light weight application cause when I gig I'm in less then 12 inches of water even if I used wood I believe I would still be able to draft shallow enough. But I don't wanna loose no speed ( I like to go fast) with that being said I will be powering this with a 40 HP evinrude with a cmc tilt and trim Jack plate

 

[sbritt23]

I would also like to put a access hatch in the stern on one of the side boxes to put my battery in so all I would have in the big opening is my gas tank but don't really know if I should sacrifice removing the foam out of it

 

[beetlespin]

I would also like to put a access hatch in the stern on one of the side boxes to put my battery in so all I would have in the big opening is my gas tank but don't really know if I should sacrifice removing the foam out of it

Removing floatation is never a good idea [-X

 

[sbritt23]

Yeah that's exactly what I was thinking so I believe I will just have to put my 6 gallon tank and battery back there along with a bilge pump. I'll have to mess with it a little bit to make it s clean install

 

[thudpucker]

"Commercial gigger"? What's that? Got a link to it?
I was a Commercial Halibut Long liner for a few years.

On the storage issue.
First you need a big wood deck. Mine is Marine Ply. Been in there since 97 with just a few 'insults' which are man made. I also nap on that big deck. I've spent the night out in my boat several times. That big flat floor is very valuable usage.

Look at where my Rods are. You can make some storage boxes out of light aluminum and Pop Rivets to keep that stuff up off the floor, but inside the boat, and with 'toe' room under neath.
Then store the Rods and your "Giggers" on the inboard surface of the Boxes.
Bulky looking but very functional. You can also do it off the Very front edge of the bow, but that has to be drain-able or stuff up there will rot!
I DONT like stuff underfoot.

I hang the PFD's on a seat. Let em' air out. The Sun'll kill them though. I think a shroud of black Plastic might protect them from the Sun's killer rays. I've thought that for a long time but never did anything about it.
Maybe there's some Commercial grade stuff just for that issue?

Another thing about motors and gas storage that's always bugged me.
Use the smallest motor you can. A 9.5 or 9.9 will move your boat around easily enough. My 16 has a 25 Hp Mariner. It goes fast, but I'd rather have the Fuel economy and lighter weight.

I was in a boat that was capsized and the fuel tanks floated! But they floated away from the boat, leaving us....

 

[sbritt23]

Commercial flounder higher Google flounder gigging its where you have underwater or flood lights on the bow of the boat and you pole along looking for flounder then you strap them with your gig usually s 10 ft alum. Pole with a 3 prong head. I'll be putting A 40 on this really dont care much about fuel economy. As long SD I go between 33-40 mph I'll be happy.

 

[MrSimon]

You have a GREAT hull to play with there ... lots of possibilities.

My recommendation would be to:

1. Lay down an aluminum floor that extends from the rear seat all the way to the front deck, and pop-rivet it to the ribs.

2. Extend the deck back two ribs. First, build some bracing and supports using aluminum angle or square tubing. Then, pop rivet some aluminum sheet to the top. I wouldn't hinge the top or install hatches .... just leave the front open so you can stuff your gear up underneath the extension .... you can also reach through and stuff things up into the existing storage area too.

3. Mount a seat base in the middle of the deck extension and mount one or two seat bases in the floor (if there if room under the floor - you might have to get creative here).

That would be simple, effective, light, and inexpensive.

 

[sbritt23]

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. Got to call today for some aluminum prices

 

[thudpucker]

Use a little injunooty when riveting the deck to the Hull.
I had a StarCraft like that. Floatation under the deck too.
The Rivets all corroded or batterd their way outta the holes. I'm not arguing, just telling my experiences.

Just lay down that large piece of 3/4 Marine or maybe treated Plywood for the deck. It'll stay in place!
You might see in the photos that I notched the Ply Deck to fit well right to the Hull sides. You don't lose stuff down them slots that way.

 

[sbritt23]

Ive been doing alot of research today and i would need a peice of aluminum diamond plate 4x8 1/16 thick for how i wanna do it. But after researching weights and stuff on aluminum vs 1/2 wood it seems that the 1/2 wood is going to be lighter unless the stuff i read is wrong. Im going off this guys design https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26396 i like how his is but im wanting to make it a bit lighter. I would do the over lap deck so i can run my wires and have them hiden. but im thinking of using aluminum brackets for framing and using the wood for the deck then paint it with a textured paint. Leave the back partially open so i can stuff life jackets and other stuff up in there just have a little access hatch.

 

[Ictalurus]

I'd definetly cut into those pods in the rear for battery and misc storage. You can replace the lost flotation by putting some down between the ribs under your deck. You'll want to do that anyway for sound reduction.

 

[Country Dave]

Nice rig,
=D>
You can extend the front deck by framing it out with aluminum square tube and use a lightweight hard wood for the decking. I know what you mean about keeping the build light. I am so with you on that. If you do it that way you won’t be adding to much weight.

If you want to cut an access in one of the side boxes for storage I don’t think removing a little foam is that big of a deal. If you’re concerned about that get a storage bin and only remove as much foam to fit the bin.

 

[thudpucker]

A little tale on removing a little foam.

Years ago I got a Sears 12' Aluminum skiff. It was supposed to float with the Gunnels up (by law) so I had three teenaged boys with me, and went to the lake to test this boat's floatation.

Sure enough, with those three boys in it, they tipped it over and it came up Gunnel's and all three got into the boat and it still held them up.
So they practiced dumping water etc.
I put the little Johnson Five on it, and the same thing happened the same way. It was a good day of fun and frolic and by the third trip we had quite an audience.

Months later I'd taken out the middle seat, and put in a Rolling Rowing seat.
And still, with the middle seat (with floatation) missing, that thing still brought those boys to the surface. Gunnel's up!

So a little floatation missing just ain't no big deal unless you really have a load in the boat you want to save.

 

[JMichael]

I didn't weight my aluminum or plywood when installing it so I don't have exact numbers. But I'm pretty sure the .060 aluminum is a good deal lighter than the ½" plywood that I used on my boat. According to all the weight tables, charts, and calculators I can find, a 4x8 sheet of .060 aluminum averages around 27 lbs depending on the alloy you use. A 4x8 sheet of ½" plywood comes in at somewhere between 40-50 lbs depending on which source of info you refer to.

And if you install foam between the ribs up to the top of the ribs, that makes up for a lot of foam that you might end up removing from other places in order to install batteries or make storage room.

 

[sbritt23]

Yeah that's exactly my thought them pods back there are serving no purpose what so ever. It will make for a great spot on one side for a battery and rocker panel switch and Al my electrical stuff and the other side would be great for tackle oil or other stuff

 

[Country Dave]

A little tale on removing a little foam.

Years ago I got a Sears 12' Aluminum skiff. It was supposed to float with the Gunnels up (by law) so I had three teenaged boys with me, and went to the lake to test this boat's floatation.

Sure enough, with those three boys in it, they tipped it over and it came up Gunnel's and all three got into the boat and it still held them up.
So they practiced dumping water etc.
I put the little Johnson Five on it, and the same thing happened the same way. It was a good day of fun and frolic and by the third trip we had quite an audience.

Months later I'd taken out the middle seat, and put in a Rolling Rowing seat.
And still, with the middle seat (with floatation) missing, that thing still brought those boys to the surface. Gunnel's up!

So a little floatation missing just ain't no big deal unless you really have a load in the boat you want to save.

I think I’m missing something.

If I understand correctly you removed the center seat and the foam that was under it. But the boat still floated gunnels up. Then I would say that lends credence to the fact that a little bit of foam removed does not adversely affect the overall floatation of the boat.