This won't answer your question of who and where, and I'll most likely get flamed by the experts for this, but...I have a UHMW boat now and have owned one like this photo, and have added UHMW to a third metal boat at a local specialty aluminum/stainless welding shop. I'm not able to support my opinion on the screw method, haven't tried it and won't.
Second, for a jon boat, don't know how the strakes would be protected, imagine they would not be covered and the material laid between? Regardless, adding 1/4" application will affect handling. But it adds buoyancy and on a 16ft hull, it was less than 100Lb. Maybe it cancels out weight vs HP?
The drifter/sled we ran was responsive to a 10hp tiller and no less responsive than my current Weldbilt jet jon. And it got up and went with three adults on flat lake waters. The only reason the 14/54 Rocky Mtn Trout Boat isn't still in the barn is it doesn't have flotation, and I fish Pamlico and Harkers on occasion.
WHY would you want to put screws into the bottom of a perfectly good hull? It's a leak waiting to happen, if you can locate the offending screw to fix it, good luck. There are 1000's of drift boats and power sleds out west that use the weld system. It's their standard. (See Willie, Koffler, Hyde, and more)
The boat we retrofitted had the factory cut the material to fit and bevel the weld holes, they sent the plug washers/UHMW and recommended temp to tack weld. That was 10+ years ago, no problems. My current boat is older than that and has taken a beating.
Are power boats more likely to peel UHMW, yes. If the application is done correctly with plenty of weld points, you shouldn't have problems with the application. If you abuse the boat enough to tear it off, you are just as likely to wreck the boat or rip off the pump. I'm not motoring the Susquehanna River at 30 mph however, there is always someone willing to abuse their equipment.
I've heard the speculation that the welds weaken the metal. Not likely, and my guess is those comments (from another site) are from someone who has never seen or used the method. The heat is low, the tacks are spread. Leading edges require closer spaced weld points.
Some glue/epoxy a material sheet, Hyde and Stealthcraft put it on their fiberglass hulls. I imagine the bottom would require it to be new and without blemish? Hyde calls it G4 shoe (not UHMW) and they had problems in the past supposedly solved now.
My opinion running rocky waters in the southeast and rowing the northwest.
