Wire Wheel

[sconnie12]

I used a wire wheel for the bottom of my boat and it has been bare aluminum all summer and it has gotten wet from rain an the water numerous times and I have not seen any rust, I'm planning on giving it a coat of steelflex eventually, but I have not seen a single spec of rust.

 

[ureallyfloatmyboat]

Ok. I'm still confused :? . I'm not the expert here. I depend on all of you knowledgeable tinners to set me straight. Someone please answer the question clearly, black and white, cut and dried. I want to strip the paint from my 67 wards sea king 12' aluminum v and then buff the aluminum. What should I use to strip the paint that will NOT damage in any way, shape or form and will not cause corrosion, rust, or any other form of unwanted destruction to the aluminum on my boat? Thanks [-o<

 

[sr71]

"soda blasting".

 

[CalicoJack]

Have yall's boats disintegrated yet?

 

[airshot]

Curious here...if the paint is that difficult to remove...why bother ? To repaint, only loose, scaling or flaking paint needs to be removed. Just seems like an awfull lot of work for nothing unless you gonba polish the plain aluminum, yet that is another story....

 

[Ronbedard57]

Hi,
I used a plain old steel wire wheel to remove the old paint I didn't worry about it because I knew there'd be multiple subsequent steps after that. Microscopic rust particles weren't on my radar. I polished everything above the water line using successive grits of sandpaper, then successive grits of clay bar compounds. No rust that I can see. The painted bottom (sanded then 2 coats rustoleum primer and Rustoleum topcoat) also shows no ill effects.
"Its not a Swiss watch"

 

[CalicoJack]

Hi,
I used a plain old steel wire wheel to remove the old paint I didn't worry about it because I knew there'd be multiple subsequent steps after that. Microscopic rust particles weren't on my radar. I polished everything above the water line using successive grits of sandpaper, then successive grits of clay bar compounds. No rust that I can see. The painted bottom (sanded then 2 coats rustoleum primer and Rustoleum topcoat) also shows no ill effects.
"Its not a Swiss watch"

I am speechless. Absolutely beautiful! You put some love and care into that boat, that's for sure....I can't even get the paint remover to work for me lol

 

[Ronbedard57]

Thanks!
I did use some stripper early on, but found the process pretty nasty.
The wire wheel did the removal, and all of the work after that was making finer and finer scratches till shiny.
If you can figure out how to use a stripper and not feel like you’re creating an ecological disaster, let me know.

 

[sonny1]

Taking the boat down to bare metal with a drill and mild steel brushes. Think about it folks. We are talking about a 1984 boat that has been through the ropes. The aluminum is loaded with contaminants. After I get the boat to bare metal plan on washing it with a good commercial cleaner and then etching it. Total Boat sells some good stuff for this job. Yes stainless is preferred but the cost would be ridiculous.

 

[airshot]

With all the time, trouble, effort and cost, wouldnt it be easier to just buy a new boat!!!!

 

[sonny1]

I have nothing but time Retired.

 

[airshot]

I have nothing but time Retired.

Well, same here, but looking for play time not work time..

 

[AlanT]

I have nothing but time Retired.

I can relate. I'm doing some of the projects I always wanted to do but didn't have the time when I was working. I consider working on my boat as one of my hobbies.

 

[sonny1]

 

[Sorbothegeek]

I used this to remove pits and oxidation from my boat after I bought it. It's not metallic like a wire wheel but it still cuts into the aluminum if too much pressure is applied.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-7772ES-Pa...IQ9M/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y/177-6346384-4922724

Stripper, although, it's very caustic to work with.



Now, as far as the discussion about using SS brushes.....I've been an AWS certified welder since 4/17/99, and I second the statement about only using a SS brush to clean aluminum, as well as cleaning SS. Steel brushes leave iron residue. In welding, this is an impurity that will compromise the integrity of a weld.

But if you doubt what I am telling you, then pull out an AWS procedure handbook, and read about GTAW and GMAW aluminum welding, and proper cleaning procedures. They tell you to use SS, not regular steel brushes for cleaning, again, because steel contaminates aluminum.

Using a steel brush for cleaning, this leaves all kinds of little particles of iron embedded into the aluminum, as soon as it's exposed to moisture, it will likely leave little specks all over the aluminum, unless it is thoroughly washed with an etching acid such as phosphoric acid, and then rinsing with water.


As far as the SS wire wheel, the knotted type IS a bit more aggressive than the plain type, you have to go easy with it and use light pressure, or it will gouge the metal.

BTW, 6 dollars for a SS wheel is one helluva deal, considering that I paid about 50 dollars for one I bought from McMaster-Carr a couple of years ago. But then again, mine is stamped "316" meaning it is genuine stainless with no impurities.

Can't say for sure about the HF wheel, I haven't tried one, but at that price, I intend to give it a shot.

Taking the boat down to bare metal with a drill and mild steel brushes. View attachment 113684 Think about it folks. We are talking about a 1984 boat that has been through the ropes. The aluminum is loaded with contaminants. After I get the boat to bare metal plan on washing it with a good commercial cleaner and then etching it. Total Boat sells some good stuff for this job. Yes stainless is preferred but the cost would be ridiculous.

Is this what you suggest from Total Boat?

https://www.totalboat.com/products/aluminum-boat-etch-wash