Yamaha 25 vs Tohatsu 25 vs Suzuki 25

[turbotodd]

98% of the outboard work I do is fuel system issues. Also Yamaha, when doing a predelivery inspection on a new motor/boat, the checklist has a spot to check that says "equipped with 10 micron fuel filter"...I assume that if one is installed and that box is checked, that Yamaha looks at any particular warranty repair down the road a little differently. Makes sense to me. With the amount of fuel system problems I see daily, yes I suggest a mini-10 filter.

I will definitely add the Mini-10 filter. Any recommendations on fuel additives? With my 2-strokes I used Stabil or Startron and Yamaha Ring Free with Non-Ethanol gas. I still plan on using Non-Ethanol gas and Starton but not sure if Ring Free is still the best additive for a EFI system.

Ring free is specifically designed FOR this purpose, and works perfect with EFI.

 

[blackshear]

My Yamaha F25 EFI arrived at the dealer yesterday and I will have it on my boat later today. I checked the MPH on my 2001 F25 running WOT on the 648 War Eagle at 25.5 MPH by myself with a moderate load. I plan to duplicate the same amount of equipment and will let you know how much faster if any that the new motor runs. That is assuming they tell me it is OK to run WOT for a couple minutes to get an accurate reading. I will know more tomorrow or Sunday as long as I don't get rained out.

 

[Brian121804]

Good for you! Glad to hear you can get out
& run it, things will be frozen around here
for awhile yet. I'll be interested to see how
it performs for you.There is a recommended
break in procedure, not sure I believe it's
really necessary, but I followed it. Good
excuse to putt around & drink beer for a
few hours anyway.

Copied from the manual:

"Breaking in engine
Your new engine requires a period of break-
in to allow mating surfaces of moving parts to
wear in evenly. Correct break-in will help en-
sure proper performance and longer engine
life. NOTICE: Failure to follow the break-in
procedure could result in reduced engine
life or even severe engine damage.

Procedure for 4-stroke models
Your new engine requires a period of 10
hours break-in to allow mating surfaces of
moving parts to wear in evenly.
TIP:
Run the engine in the water, under load (in
gear with a propeller installed) as follows.


For 10 hours for breaking in engine avoid ex-
tended idling, rough water and crowded ar-
eas.
1. For the first hour of operation:
Run the engine at varying speeds up to
2000 r/min or approximately half throttle.
2. For the second hour of operation:
Increase engine speed as much as nec-
essary to put the boat on plane (but
avoid full-throttle operation), then back
off on the throttle while keeping the boat
at a planing speed.
3. Remaining 8 hours:
Run the engine at any speed. However,
avoid operating at full throttle for more
than 5 minutes at a time.
4. After the first 10 hours:
Operate the engine normally."

 

[blackshear]

After running my new Yamaha F25 EFI at a painful 2000 to 3000 rpms for 2 hours I was finally able to run WOT for a few minutes on my War Eagle 648. My best performance came with the trim pin located in the top hole running the factory supplied 11-1/4 pitch prop. War Eagle recommends a 10-1/2 pitch for best performance on this particular boat and paired with the Yamaha F25. My top speed was 27.3 with no measurable wind. My older 2001 F25 top speed was 25.5 running a 10-1/2 pitch prop on this boat. I plan to get a Tiny Tach and see how many RPMs this prop is turning before ordering a 10-1/2 pitch. Also I may try and move the motor up slightly on the transom to see if that helps with performance.

I am very impressed with the new F25 and the fuel economy was awesome. For as much riding around as I did this weekend I may have used 1 gallon of gas. The location of the start button and the tilt latch were not an issue at all for me, I actually prefer the tilt latch in the new location. I used the tip that "turbotodd" suggested by putting the motor in reverse to help assist with tilting the motor and that really helped. The reduced weight of the new motor is much easier to tilt than the older F25. It is very quiet and and smooth once the rpms get up a little bit. My only complaint is that there is quite a bit of vibration at idle or lower RPMs. I knew this motor had the vibration issue but I was hoping it wouldn’t be that noticeable. It seemed that the more I ran it the worse the vibration got. Some have said the vibration on their motor improved the more hours they accumulated. With only 3 hours on my motor hopefully I will see a reduction in the vibration as I continue to put use it. All things considered this is a great motor and I look forward to many years of enjoyment from my new F25.

Attached are a couple of pictures of some crappie I managed to catch while on the lake this weekend. I thought some of the tinboat fishermen might enjoy the pictures.

 

[LDUBS]

Nice bucket of crappie and congrats on the new outboard. Yamaha is a pretty popular brand around here. At least they must be because I sure see a lot of them. I remember when I was breaking my outboard in last year. I was pretty religious about following the break-in instructions. Fisherman on the lake must have wondered what was going on seeing my boat going back and forth at different speeds for hours.

Enjoy.

 

[turbotodd]

27.5mph assuming about 10% slip should put it about 5700 RPM give or take a little. That's fine. Max is 6000. Going "back" to a 10 1/2" pitch will put you over 6000 RPM, BUT it might work better with a heavier loaded boat, say, if you take other people with you or whatever. I run a 11" turbo Hotshot. 6200 with a light load, runs right at 5950-6000 with the girlfriend but it's also a foot shorter boat (548LDV War Eagle).

 

[blackshear]

27.5mph assuming about 10% slip should put it about 5700 RPM give or take a little. That's fine. Max is 6000. Going "back" to a 10 1/2" pitch will put you over 6000 RPM, BUT it might work better with a heavier loaded boat, say, if you take other people with you or whatever. I run a 11" turbo Hotshot. 6200 with a light load, runs right at 5950-6000 with the girlfriend but it's also a foot shorter boat (548LDV War Eagle).

Glad you responded, that is excellent info for me to work with. I installed a Tiny Tach this weekend and I am turning around 5750 to 5800 RPMs with the 11-1/4 prop. I was running the boat by myself, at 215 pounds, with fishing gear (two small Yetis with ice, two batteries in rear, trolling motor, tackle etc). I will be fishing with two people and gear on occasion and rarely 3 people. My boat is a 2001 648LDV War Eagle w/20" transom.

My cavitation plate is currently about 2-3" below bottom of the boat but I don't have any room to raise the motor on my transom due to the motor clamps already being within an inch or so from the top of the transom. I could add and aluminum spacer/bracket to my transom but that would be a lot of work for something that may not help. I was thinking about getting a 10-1/2 pitch aluminum prop or a 10 pitch stainless to help me get to the 6000 rpm range. Not sure which would be the best choice. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[turbotodd]

The factory 11 1/4" is a GOOD prop for what it is. HOWEVER, they blades are a little thin and they'll bend, umm, fairly easily. Same thing for the 10 1/2". If you're going to be loaded, yeah a 10 1/2" is a better bet, OR a 10" SS. If you can raise the motor on the transom, that'll help some-and you may be able to get away with a 11 1/4" with some load in the boat. I run mine with a 1 1/4" spacer between the transom and the motor-and the motor is clamped RIGHT at the top of the "cap"-and hasn't moved (yet). My old F25 was the same way and it was considerably heavier so I'm not scared of it. The clamps actually run off of the very top of the cap a little bit.

Solas=thick cast blades, lots of drag, lose some RPM compared to a good quality SS prop of the same pitch. In my case, .25-.50mph slower on the top end.
Powertech=didn't try much of their different lines, OTHER than the SRA, which is way too much rake. No faster but it did induce some porpoising before I moved the pin.
Have not tried Michigan.
Turbo Hotshot works just as good as the Powertech, but comes out of the hole a LOT better. It actually holeshots as good as the factory 10 1/2" pitch but has nearly the same top end as the 11 1/4". Good rake, works pretty good for all-around use. I used to have to change props if the GF went fishing with me from the 11 1/4" to the 10 1/2" but don't have to do that now with the turbo.

After I bought the Turbo I found out that Turbo is owned by Yamaha. I also found out some other things too that I can't really discuss publicly but I can tell you that to my knowledge, no other mass production propeller manufacturer scrutinizes the quality of their product as much as they do. If it's not exactly what it's supposed to be, it gets melted down. It takes roughly 30 days to make a prop once you consider all of the steps that they take and I believe it....since when I ordered mine, it backordered and took a while to receive it. Also if you order a turbo prop from a Yamaha dealer, it comes free shipping.

I tried a 4 blade Powertech too and LOVED how smooth it ran and how well it came out of the hole and held plane at a lower RPM, but it was a 10" and I should have gotten a 9". Struggled to reach 5500 but still ran 27 mph.

I'm off today...sun just came out....I'm outta here, with a stop at the bait shop!

 

[blackshear]

Thanks for your input turbotodd. I looked into ordering a Turbo Hotshot but the delivery time was several weeks out. The Power Tech TLR is $100 less and I can have it in a few days. In the meantime I am going to play with raising my motor up on the transom and see if that helps get the RPMs up. I also need a little bit of rise in the bow of the boat. The trim pin is in the last hole and the bow still runs a little to flat for me.

 

[republicgamer35]

Hi I have a heavy custom Princecraft Fisherman 14'' long with 3/4 plywood for the floor and front platform, Terrova trolling motor, lots of fishing equipment's. The boat is sitting deep in the water, it is heavy but it is a wonderful setup. it look like a mini-Pro tiller. I want to keep it and I need to figure is my engine is good enough or what can get to improve my setup. I need your input please .

I actually have a Yamaha 4 stroke 20hp 2016
I have a hard time to manual start it. 2 to 5 pull in order to manual start it. The max speed is 22 Miles alone and 17 when we are two in the boat.

I consider to traide for a 25 hp short shaft 15'' electric start and trim.

Which one is more reliable, and provide more performance for max speed?

also having a RPM controller would be a must for trolling.

In my case what motor I should consider? Yamaha 25hp, Tohatsu, suzuki or Evinrure E-tech?

I like to buy it new and do a trade with my motor and payed the difference.
Would it make a good difference between 20hp to 25hp?

I would like to reach 31 miles per hours because I am doing long distance travel.

If you guys can help me out I would greatly appreciated!!!!

JS

 

[Brian121804]

Yamaha F25 short shaft is not available with PTT,
I believe Suzuki 25/30 is.

What's the boat rated for? I'd probably be looking
at the 30 Suzuki. Same power head as the 25.

 

[ktoelke54]

If your getting 22 max out of your 20hp, a 25 will probably get you in the mid 20s with a light lode, low 20s with that extra person. It would be a notable improvement over the 20 Hp but nowhere near your 31 mph goal.


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