Gators5220
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Nice job on this boat man, real clean. Nice restore on the outboard as well it looks factory new! =D>
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14' Starcraft Seafarer Build
- Thread starter atuck593
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atuck593
Well-known member
Hey...thanks a lot! I have added a few more things since last year but I just haven't had time to post any pics of the progress. Hopefully next week I will up load a few of them.
DaveInGA
Well-known member
You're doing a fine job with the build and have a great boat.
atuck593
Well-known member
Ok so I have some updates from this past season of builds. I added a few new things... I think I am coming to the end of the major mods with this build after two years. But as always there are a few small things I would like to update for next year including a cooler livewell, move the rear battery to the bow, and add a bicycle seat leaning post on the front. We'll see what happens, but there is still a lot of fishing this fall to do.
The new bow mount trolling motor added this year. A Minn Kota Power Drive 45lb thrust. It works great! I tried to add it as close to the centerline of the boat without blocking the view of my bow light. It can still be seen from all directions up front.
The new to me 18 hp motor. I re-painted it last winter and have added a few pics of the process on the build thread.
Inspired from a few other builds on here ( I wanna say GreatWhite to give him credit but I may be wrong), I added wooden console boxes to the sides of the stern. I use them for storage, switch pannel, small lights for night fishing, fish finder mount, and a place to plug in the stern anchor light.
You can see the anchor light mount and storage underneath.
The fish finder (new for this year) Humminbird 586ci hd di with color monitor, GPS, and down imagining. Underneath is storage for the anchor/stern light with clips to hold it in place. At the moment I am also charging the seperate battery I bought for the fish finder. A small 20 amp re-chargeable I bought on eBay.
View of the boat facing forward. I added a CD/Radio/MP3 player this past year. You can see the seat base in the center for the middle seat which is out at the moment.
Rear speakers and LED light bar. The LED light really helps when loading the boat at night to see the floor and deck, I like to make sure I dont leave any hooks or lures behind.
A bimini top for shade at the request of my girlfriend. We started to use the boat a few times this summer to picnic in small coves where we could relax, swim, and fish all day. I mounted it as close to the middle as I could. It allows me to easily fish from the front and give shade to the person in the back. You can still fish off the back of the boat, but its a little difficult.
When not in use the bimini top zips up in its boot and folds down behind the rear seat. I can still easily access the tiller handle of the motor to drive.
I found these online through eBay lol. I had to add a little ladyluck to the boat lol.
One of the last nights I was able to get out. I know it's no monster, but I caught four about that size and a few smaller ones to make it an eventful night.
The new bow mount trolling motor added this year. A Minn Kota Power Drive 45lb thrust. It works great! I tried to add it as close to the centerline of the boat without blocking the view of my bow light. It can still be seen from all directions up front.
The new to me 18 hp motor. I re-painted it last winter and have added a few pics of the process on the build thread.
Inspired from a few other builds on here ( I wanna say GreatWhite to give him credit but I may be wrong), I added wooden console boxes to the sides of the stern. I use them for storage, switch pannel, small lights for night fishing, fish finder mount, and a place to plug in the stern anchor light.
You can see the anchor light mount and storage underneath.
The fish finder (new for this year) Humminbird 586ci hd di with color monitor, GPS, and down imagining. Underneath is storage for the anchor/stern light with clips to hold it in place. At the moment I am also charging the seperate battery I bought for the fish finder. A small 20 amp re-chargeable I bought on eBay.
View of the boat facing forward. I added a CD/Radio/MP3 player this past year. You can see the seat base in the center for the middle seat which is out at the moment.
Rear speakers and LED light bar. The LED light really helps when loading the boat at night to see the floor and deck, I like to make sure I dont leave any hooks or lures behind.
A bimini top for shade at the request of my girlfriend. We started to use the boat a few times this summer to picnic in small coves where we could relax, swim, and fish all day. I mounted it as close to the middle as I could. It allows me to easily fish from the front and give shade to the person in the back. You can still fish off the back of the boat, but its a little difficult.
When not in use the bimini top zips up in its boot and folds down behind the rear seat. I can still easily access the tiller handle of the motor to drive.
I found these online through eBay lol. I had to add a little ladyluck to the boat lol.
One of the last nights I was able to get out. I know it's no monster, but I caught four about that size and a few smaller ones to make it an eventful night.
bigwave
Well-known member
Very nice, I forgot about your boat, I really like the wood consoles you built, and the mermaid is killer.
great white
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atuck593 said:
yup, that'd be me:
Although you're a little further along than me.
Thanks for the nod.
On piece of advice: kudos on having a fire extinguisher on board but id move it from inside the cabinet to a easier to access spot and not so close to the engine/fuel tanks. Thats typically where the fire starts and not where you want to have to reach to access the extinguisher...
Gators5220
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Nice job sir, hope mine turns out as clean! =D>
atuck593
Well-known member
Gators... Thanks! As with all these boats it still a work in progress little things here and there to maintain and make better. I actually just winterized the boat last weekend before Thanksgiving. I guess I was hoping to get out just "one more time" but it didn't happen with work and daylight savings time. Dark by 5:00 is depressing. I guess I will have to wait until April...for some pre-spawn action.
Great White... The fire extinguisher is mounted to the back of the seat in that picture. The can in the console is actually sun tan lotion.
Great White... The fire extinguisher is mounted to the back of the seat in that picture. The can in the console is actually sun tan lotion.
injunjoe
Member
After just joining the forum I had to reply and say what a great job you have done on this boat.
Not to mention the detail you have shared while going through the process of creating such a comfortable fishing machine.
Not to mention the detail you have shared while going through the process of creating such a comfortable fishing machine.
Starcraft14
New member
I've posted this on some of the other guys building on Starcraft Seafarer 14s, and I'll ask you as well. I have one of these boats too, and I'm starting my build Tuesday (1/8/13). I'm planning on building a huge front casting deck raising to almost 3" from the top railing. How will that affect the "tippiness" of the boat? Thanks, and your boat looks amazing. Great job!!
atuck593
Well-known member
injun... thanks man for the compliments. You have definitely found the right site for information on your build. Anything you need or will need can be found here. Good luck with your build.
Starcraft.... I am not sure how the boat would react with decks that high. I mounted my decks as high as the old bench seats were. In fact I used the old seat mounts to help support the deck itself, along with aluminum frame underneath. It's perfect to fish from, I couldn't imagine a need to go much higher. There is plenty of storage under there too. That being said, when I stand on the front deck to fish, its perfectly stable to fish from as well. At first I was hesitant about standing up there, but once I became use to how the boat balanced and moved, I have a hard time fishing sitting down now. Good luck with your build and remember to post a lot of pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions.
Starcraft.... I am not sure how the boat would react with decks that high. I mounted my decks as high as the old bench seats were. In fact I used the old seat mounts to help support the deck itself, along with aluminum frame underneath. It's perfect to fish from, I couldn't imagine a need to go much higher. There is plenty of storage under there too. That being said, when I stand on the front deck to fish, its perfectly stable to fish from as well. At first I was hesitant about standing up there, but once I became use to how the boat balanced and moved, I have a hard time fishing sitting down now. Good luck with your build and remember to post a lot of pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions.
Starting off, awesome boat. I have same exact one just not nice. LOL. I'm going to follow your build step by step. In my mind is excatly what I want. How did you attach metal frame of platforms and floor to boat? With rivets directly to the ribs on bottom? Aluminum frame seems best way to go and doesn't seem like it will be too hard. Seeing it laid out in front of me is nice. Although its start of fishing season I hope to work on it and fish the whole summer. Seeing this project gives me hope and makes me excited.
atuck593
Well-known member
Hey Bass,
Thanks...mine didn't start off too nice either lol. Baby poop green and faded from the sun over years of fishing up in Canada. I connected the metal frame to the ribs across the floor of the boat with rivets. I put on rivet at each end and they held really well. I then attached the decking to the frame with self taping wood to metal screws that I found at Lowes. I carpeted the decking and then marked where the frame was underneath the decking when it was mounted. I did this to make sure the I hit the frame when I screwed the decking in place.
Thanks...mine didn't start off too nice either lol. Baby poop green and faded from the sun over years of fishing up in Canada. I connected the metal frame to the ribs across the floor of the boat with rivets. I put on rivet at each end and they held really well. I then attached the decking to the frame with self taping wood to metal screws that I found at Lowes. I carpeted the decking and then marked where the frame was underneath the decking when it was mounted. I did this to make sure the I hit the frame when I screwed the decking in place.
How much of the easypoxy did you buy and did you use primer on the hull before applying it? Also did you spar urethane the plywood before you put carpet down. I'm starting from ground up so I think if I can get prepping and painting done I'd feel way better about it
atuck593
Well-known member
Bass,
I didn't use easypoxy, the hull didn't leak enough to require a product that strong. However, if your hull does then I would recommend applying it to your build. Anyway, I used a product called Gluvit (one quart can). I sanded down the paint on the inside of the hull and then applied the Gluvit to the bare aluminum on the inside. Made sure to cover all of the seams and rivets really well. The quart can was more than enough. I then applied the self etching primer over the Gluvit and then the top coats of paint. The plywood decking I covered with 2 to 3 good coats of spar urethane. I then used outdoor carpet from Lowes with their outdoor carpet glue over the plywood...and that too has held up well for two seasons of use. Good luck when you get started...and if you need anything else don't hesitate to ask.
I didn't use easypoxy, the hull didn't leak enough to require a product that strong. However, if your hull does then I would recommend applying it to your build. Anyway, I used a product called Gluvit (one quart can). I sanded down the paint on the inside of the hull and then applied the Gluvit to the bare aluminum on the inside. Made sure to cover all of the seams and rivets really well. The quart can was more than enough. I then applied the self etching primer over the Gluvit and then the top coats of paint. The plywood decking I covered with 2 to 3 good coats of spar urethane. I then used outdoor carpet from Lowes with their outdoor carpet glue over the plywood...and that too has held up well for two seasons of use. Good luck when you get started...and if you need anything else don't hesitate to ask.
I was leaning towards wood for frame but looking at yours seems aluminum is almost easier. I dont have any experience working with aluminum. How was it putting it all together? What was it there that you used to attach to the ribs the square tubing? Was that all you used plus the alum angle?
atuck593
Well-known member
Bass,
I never really worked with aluminum either until this project. I took my time, researched on this site, and then went to work on the build. It was not as hard/difficult as I thought it would be, just time consuming to get everything right. I think aluminum is the way to go since its lighter and you don't have to coat everything in a couple of coats of spar urethane. The only thing is aluminum tends to be expensive. I near died when I priced out aluminum angle at Lowes and Home Depot. I ended up buying my aluminum from a local scrap/surplus yard. They had a bunch of surplus aluminum pieces that I was able to use and it cost me less than a dollar per pound. I bought the pieces depending upon how I would use them. Hence why some is square tubing. Aluminum angle pieces would have been easier to rivet to one another but they did not have the size I needed. Instead the square tubing is riveted together with little angle brackets you can find at a hardware store. I think they were made for like shelving and decking purposes. I was able to put rivets in where the screws were meant to go and they have held up fine. In the end aluminum is less forgiving than wood, meaning everything has to be precise, but the learning curve is easy and you should catch on quick.
I never really worked with aluminum either until this project. I took my time, researched on this site, and then went to work on the build. It was not as hard/difficult as I thought it would be, just time consuming to get everything right. I think aluminum is the way to go since its lighter and you don't have to coat everything in a couple of coats of spar urethane. The only thing is aluminum tends to be expensive. I near died when I priced out aluminum angle at Lowes and Home Depot. I ended up buying my aluminum from a local scrap/surplus yard. They had a bunch of surplus aluminum pieces that I was able to use and it cost me less than a dollar per pound. I bought the pieces depending upon how I would use them. Hence why some is square tubing. Aluminum angle pieces would have been easier to rivet to one another but they did not have the size I needed. Instead the square tubing is riveted together with little angle brackets you can find at a hardware store. I think they were made for like shelving and decking purposes. I was able to put rivets in where the screws were meant to go and they have held up fine. In the end aluminum is less forgiving than wood, meaning everything has to be precise, but the learning curve is easy and you should catch on quick.
smackdaddy53
Well-known member
Aluminum is the way to go if you ask me, you will never have to replace it if you rinse it and watch galvanic corrosion/dissimilar metals. Just vacuumed out ten pounds of aluminum shavings and rinsed mine inside and out. Getting ready for float pods and cutting out my tunnel/hatches.
Instead of buying a bunch of clips just buy a stick of aluminum angle and cut your own at custom widths/angles and it is cheaper.
Instead of buying a bunch of clips just buy a stick of aluminum angle and cut your own at custom widths/angles and it is cheaper.
atuck593
Well-known member
Hey nlittle
Thanks! As for the rattle cans, I want to say about four cans of self etch primer and then four of the rustoleum gray. From hindsight of my build, I would recommend using the rattle cans of self etch primer (easier to find the rattle cans at an auto store) but use the brush on rustoleum rather than the rattle cans. It ends up being cheaper and I personally ended up having to re-coat the whole interior with the brush on kind because the rattle can gray didn't adhere properly. You can apply thicker coats with the brush on kind, just get a decent quality brush. I am also glad bought the quart can because now I have touch-up paint as well for the inside.
Thanks! As for the rattle cans, I want to say about four cans of self etch primer and then four of the rustoleum gray. From hindsight of my build, I would recommend using the rattle cans of self etch primer (easier to find the rattle cans at an auto store) but use the brush on rustoleum rather than the rattle cans. It ends up being cheaper and I personally ended up having to re-coat the whole interior with the brush on kind because the rattle can gray didn't adhere properly. You can apply thicker coats with the brush on kind, just get a decent quality brush. I am also glad bought the quart can because now I have touch-up paint as well for the inside.
