1975 Fisher Marine Bateau 1438 Mod -**NEW PICS OCT 16**

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Starter fluid is not a good idea with a 2 stroke because it will dilute the oil. The chalky powder is from a chemical reaction from the ethonal/ water in the fuel. Ethonal will attract the water from gas and allow i to burn out with the fuel.
Once left in a carb over a period of time it will eat away the protective coating on the alluminum causing corrosion on the carb body. It's not a real big deal, you just need to clean it well and use fresh fuel.
 
As far as where the old gas is, it was probably stored with just a small amount of fuel in the carb and evaporated.
 
Don't know what your plan is but those seats you removed are part of what holds the boat together for strength, maybe ok for a small pond but if you power with an outboard on a river system where you will face large waves etc. your hull might bend or warp, (thought) :roll:
 
MMF,

thanks, yeah I plan on putting them back in along with the braces that I took out. They actually have 2 screws in each side that you can loosen and you can slide them in the tracks. They are easy to take out so I took them out to paint. The nice thing is, is that you can move the seats almost anywhere you want. One more thing I have to think about before I start decking it in.
 
Ordered steelflex for the exterior yesterday. I am not sure how olive drab steelflex on the exterior will match with grey on the interior? Should be interesting though and it will almost be like a new boat since I will have broken the boat down to bare bones and cleaned, sanded, and painted everything.
 
Thanks, family is in town visiting for a week so probably won't get much done for a few days. Maybe I can hit it hard again next weekend.
 
When I took the braces out of my boat, they were held in by self tapping screws. Some where rusted almost in half. They were in there 35 years so not surprised. I am getting ready to replace these, the only thing I can find that is the same size are the zinc coated screws in the pic below. They are the exact same size. Will these react with the aluminum? Should I just use a stainless screw that is not "self tapping"? The hole is already there so not sure why I would need them anyway.
 

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From what I've read on this forum SS is the only to go other than alum. I had replaced all the same supports and the side panels with SS self tapping (mine as well where almost totally rusted out) and was thinking that I could have saved a little $ and go with the non-self tapping for replacing in the same holes. Either way the SS hardware is costly but figure it's a one time purchase. You may have to go to a hardware store that has a good bulk fastener section. the big box home stores will not have much in the way of SS from what I've found.
 
Yeah, I think I will get stainless but get the "non-self tapping" type. That self tapping portion of the screw is going to be hanging in mid-air about 1/4 inch inside of the support.
 
My steelflex came in yesterday. Has anyone tried putting steelflex up over the gunwales? That was my original plan to have the steelflex come up over the gunwales and meet the grey paint right above the seat rail.
 
Finished with the third coat of paint on the interior today. Ready for steelflex soon. I am also putting thompsons water seal on my boards that I am putting in the transom. After I put a couple coats on can I also paint over it? The transom has 3 coats of paint on the aluminum, but I would like to paint the side that would show in the boat. Is it ok to paint over the water sealant?
 

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Replaced the wood in the transom today. Still have to put the bolts in the top through, waiting till my board for the back of the boat is totally sealed. Also put the foam and the sidewalls back in. Just need to paint the brackets and seats and get them back in.
 

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Sanded down, ready for steelflex. I applied the steelflex but ran out. I bought the gallon size but it is still not thick enough on the sides so now I have to wait for 2 more quarts to come in to finish.
 

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