1984 16' Bass Attacker Complete Rebuild

[bonz_d]

I'll be paying attention to your results with this product as I have no knowledge of it. I don't think many others do either. I also think many people are reluctant to try new products over things that they know have worked in the past. But how do we find other products that work if nobody tries it?

Example, I have taken some heat on another site because I've decided to try something very different for painting the inside of my Sea Nymph. The paint is a Rustoleum DTM acrylic latex enamel. As far as I know no one has yet tried to used a water based latex paint on a boat. Well I'm trying it and will gladly take the heat. No I also have no intention of trying this on the outside.

If this works I will be happy about it. If it doesn't, well then we have all learned something and all I'm out is the time it took to paint it and then the time it will take to remove it. BTW, this paint costs me nothing.

 

[Bigwrench]

I'll be paying attention to your results with this product as I have no knowledge of it. I don't think many others do either. I also think many people are reluctant to try new products over things that they know have worked in the past. But how do we find other products that work if nobody tries it?

Example, I have taken some heat on another site because I've decided to try something very different for painting the inside of my Sea Nymph. The paint is a Rustoleum DTM acrylic latex enamel. As far as I know no one has yet tried to used a water based latex paint on a boat. Well I'm trying it and will gladly take the heat. No I also have no intention of trying this on the outside.

If this works I will be happy about it. If it doesn't, well then we have all learned something and all I'm out is the time it took to paint it and then the time it will take to remove it. BTW, this paint costs me nothing.

Thanks for the supportive words ! I am new to this stuff also but not new to trying different things and hard work, The main factor with this product is it was like $32 shipped to my door , I did research it a lot and it appeared to be similar to the other products description that most are using. Hopefully it will work out, either way I will try and remember to let everyone here know good or bad. Hindsight is I probably could have went over these areas with a foam roller before it fully set up and smoothed it out some more
I too would use that DTM just to see if it worked especially if it was FREE I have always been taught that surface prep and following the directions exactly is 90% of the battle. Working where I do I have tons of help and lots of FREE stuff that I can experiment with.
I locked in the Paint booth for this Friday and Saturday so hopefully the paint and priming process pictures will be up here in a few days !
I also have a line on Aluminum sheets in a 60x80 size so hopefully they will be what I can use and be able to pick up locally
getting excited now !
The last few weeks I have been trying to come up with a solid inside design plan but still struggling with it , hopefully I can figure out just what I want to do and stick with it, it seems the more I do or see others do on here to theirs the more I wanna change things around lol

 

[bonz_d]

Not a problem. Always willing to listen to anyone with an alternative perspective or another way to accomplish something. One thing I've learned at this stage in life is that many times there are no right or wrong ways of doing some things just better ways.

For instance, I wish I had access to a spray booth that would be a better way but I don't. Wish I had more expertise in using a spray gun but I don't. Wish I had a welder and could weld aluminum but I don't and can't.
Wish I had more money to just buy a new boat every few years instead of wasting fishing time rebuilding.

The other thing I've learned is there is no such thing as the perfect boat. My Pike Attacker may be perfect for the small lakes I fish but there is no way it will work well as a deep water salmon troller on Lake Michigan or pull skiers.

The paint that I am trying will be in many ways like the sealer that you are now using. It will take time to determine just how well it will work or how durable it will be. In my case I plan on being around for a while in which case I will be posting updates and observations on this product. Whether the results are good or bad. I also would hope you will stick around to report back in time to follow up on this product.

I do this because I enjoy it not because it is necessary. This is the 3rd boat that I am rebuilding and have another that this time that is in the middle of a rebuild. Each one gets a little better as I learn and gain ideas. I'm using this one as a learning tool, stepping stone on painting techniques. So I will be better prepared when I move on to the Alumacraft Classic 16 that is waiting for me to finish this one.

Sorry for the rant! Will be waiting patiently to see your paint job.

 

[Bigwrench]

Ok got a ruling back on the Coat It product being used on the outside hull

Rick, this product was designed to protect the outer hull of boats, although it can be used on the inside also.

Thank you for your inquiry.


Vicky P.
Eclectic Products, Inc.
Tech Support
Ph.: 800-767-4667
E-Mail: [email protected]
Website: www.eclecticproducts.com

So that's a good thing !
Got a lot of work done on the boat and a ton of photos of the process last night , I'll have to try at work Monday if I can't get the Tapatalk feature working . This thing looks sweet with paint though ! Stay tuned.

 

[Bigwrench]

Ok so here's a quick test drive of the new feature Jim added to the Tapatalk for the site , thank you Jim !

Took the old girl into work yesterday and learned there's much more to a painting process than I care to try by myself lol. Thankfully one of our painters had volunteered to hang out and he took the reins and run with it .... I owe him big time.
So let's get this party started with some pictures.
Waiting outside on the Doctor

Using a big eraser to remove some sticker residue I left

Lots of wiping down with wax and grease remover , gloves for protection

A final scuff of the entire boat

Protecting that new trailer

The Doctor working his magic , it is amazing how scientific (precise) the paint process really is
Primer

"Stirred not Shaken "

Catalyst

The recipe for perfection!

 

[Bigwrench]

I'm going now to pick it up after baking all night at 75 degrees I'll update when I get back with more pictures. And there is a nap in my future this afternoon lol. Was a long night !
Took 5 minutes to post that and have the photos where I wanted them ! Thanks a million Jim !

 

[Bigwrench]

Ok painting and priming process continued ....

Weighing out the ingredients of the etching primer per the recipe above

The "boss" stopped in to check on the progress while waiting on her new car to get detailed for final delivery ... My better half and best friend Tammy

The ride lol

Back to paint lol
Doctor Slim working his magic on the mixing table

Quick dusting of the etching primer

Shake rattle and roll before use

Bringing out the Big Gun

Notice the color (lightness) after shaking

A neat tool to pour out the exact amount without making a mess

A first pass with full PPE on using a 1.4 nozzle

Turns out a 1.4 worked great but had to crank up the pressure , I painted this back section just to say I did something lol.

3 coats with 10-15 minute "flash" time at 79 degrees in between coats

And low and behold the final product after cooking all night at 75 degrees

I'm so excited , it really looks great and can't wait to get started on the inside. Hope you have enjoyed this detailed post and feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to answer or find the answer
I realize not everyone has access to a paint booth but wanted to document step by step in case you decide to go that route.
The one change he wants to make before we paint and apply the non skid media to the inside is a different cap that goes on top of the plastic paint cup . This is some thick stuff and it is not recommended to thin it so he had to turn the pressure up on his gun he said "way high" to get the spray pattern and coverage he wanted.

 

[bonz_d]

Bigwrench that is really coming along nicely. Now you can flip it over and start on the fun stuff. You've moved way ahead of my progress =P~ :LOL2:

 

[Bigwrench]

Bigwrench that is really coming along nicely. Now you can flip it over and start on the fun stuff. You've moved way ahead of my progress =P~ :LOL2:

Yes sir , I'm pretty stoked to get back on track and finally feeling like I'm making some real progress.
My plan now is to flip the boat and "hang" it from my garage rafters, back the trailer under it and start working on the trailer bunks and the ride height of the boat while on the trailer. I saved all the old bunks and hardware just to use as a pattern but imagine I will be using all new hardware.
Originally there were 2 bunks on the bottom and 1 guide bunk on each side. I'm thinking I may want to us 4 bunks on the bottom just to spread the weight out some.
Once the bunks are in place I'll start working on the inside design
I have some new media that I want to try on the inside in my blasting tank before I spend the money to have the inside blasted. Just in case this new media works better than the sand I tried out already.
I'm going to cover the top rail that was also painted with masking tape to protect it some while working on the inside. We left a blend line that can easily be taped and blended with the outside when we paint the inside.
Lots to do that's for sure.

 

[Wyatt]

Great work on that paint job!! How's that trailer coming along?

 

[Bigwrench]

Great work on that paint job!! How's that trailer coming along?

Haven't done anything to it since my last post. I have flipped the boat over and gently sat it on the trailer. It is backed into the garage now but that's as far as I have gotten. Tomorrow 5-60"X80" sheets of 1/8 aluminum are supposed to be delivered at work so hopefully that will go as planned.

 

[Bigwrench]

Aluminum sheets never showed , supposed to be Tuesday now
I need some ideas on attaching the deck aluminum to the boat.
I want to make the panels removable & My thoughts are to screw the aluminum down with Stainless bolts/screws. I would like to bevel the holes so the screw heads are flush with the deck . I'm thinking of using Rivnuts in the aluminum stringers and probably some LocTite on the threads. Does anyone see an issue with doing it this way ?

 

[Oldfart9999]

Hey BW! Fancy meeting you here. Boats coming along nicely.
Rodney

 

[Fishfreek]

Becareful with countersinking the screw holes if you go that way to attach your aluminum. 1/8th" is pretty thin and the edges of your bevels will be even thinner. If the boat flexes much you could see a lot of spider cracks.

 

[Bigwrench]

Hey BW! Fancy meeting you here. Boats coming along nicely.
Rodney

Good seeing you Brother !
I'm itching to get back on it but I'm sure the progress will be slow through the holidays, seems like every weekend we have something going on once Basketball season started up.

 

[Bigwrench]

Becareful with countersinking the screw holes if you go that way to attach your aluminum. 1/8th" is pretty thin and the edges of your bevels will be even thinner. If the boat flexes much you could see a lot of spider cracks.

Yep your right , I hadn't considered that ! Glad I asked , the 82 degree bevel needed to flush the screws wouldn't leave much meat to hold it.
These were what I was going to use

 

[Fishfreek]

Something like a stainless or coated LATH screw would work. They have a low profile head that is rather large in comparison to the screw shaft diameter.

 

[Bigwrench]

:evil: Still no aluminum so I am going to work on the trailer bunks and Transom build starting tomorrow. Hopefully I can make some real progress this weekend in between Christmas Shopping, Chinese Christmas and Basketball games !
I remember reading several posts about sealing the transom wood with the special formula but wonder if this can also be done to the Trailer Bunks ?
I am under the assumption that I do not want to use Treated Lumber anywhere on the build, is that right ?
Can I just buy good quality 2x4's and use the same treatment method for the bunk boards ?

My plan is to use non treated exterior grade plywood for the transom like BigTerp used on his build on page 4
quoted here

Thanks again Dave. I'll be sure to check out the Coat-It before I make a decision.

So my local lumber yard has Marine grade plywood bot only in 1/2" and 3/4". Pretty pricey as well, $67 and $85. So I asked if they had any non-pressure treated exterior grade and they do have 5/8" A-C Fur for $35 for a 4x8 sheet. I'll be going with this. Not quite as nice as the marine grade, but I'd have to buy 2 sheets of the marine grade for about $150, doesn't make sense. Plan on picking up the plywood tomorrow morning and getting it cut and glued later this week/weekend.

So when glueing my 2 pieces together do I want to glue the "C" sides together or glue an "A" side to a "C" side?

 

[bonz_d]

Bigwrench the formula I use can be used on the bunk boards though I just usually give them 3-4 coats of exterior house paint and then when I cover them with carpet I leave the bottom open because then it drains the water out faster and the wood doesn't hold water next to it.

I've been using 3/4" Premium ACX from Menards glued together with Tite-bond 3. I then jack plane the edges to fit and smooth then seal with that formula and it's been working well for me. I mate the 2 C sides together.

This is in my Sea Nymph which is as describes above.

 

[Bigwrench]

Bigwrench the formula I use can be used on the bunk boards though I just usually give them 3-4 coats of exterior house paint and then when I cover them with carpet I leave the bottom open because then it drains the water out faster and the wood doesn't hold water next to it.

I've been using 3/4" Premium ACX from Menards glued together with Tite-bond 3. I then jack plane the edges to fit and smooth then seal with that formula and it's been working well for me. I mate the 2 C sides together.

This is in my Sea Nymph which is as describes above.

Thanks brother that's exactly what I was looking for ! And your formula was what I want to use. I'm gonna try Lowe's this weekend and if they don't have it I'm gonna try the Depot. My concern is the width of the slot for the transom board is 1.5" which means I need 2 pieces of 3/4" but they are showing actual size thickness as .710 instead of .750 will it really matter if I am .080" thinner on the transom or do I need to laminate something in between the two pieces to get the exact thickness ?
Maybe I'm overthinking it lol