1989 17' tracker pro 17 mod

[dearl]

Getting closer..... Got the front livewell fittings in, recirculation pump in, and all the plumbing done for the livewell. If I never work with 5200 again it will be to soon. I guess the cold weather has it to hard to work with, but this stuff will get anywhere, and everywhere. I'm glad I'm bald, or I might be getting a bikini wax on my head. :LOL2: I had to pull the lower livewell drain thru hull fitting, I planned to run all 3/4" lines and fittings, but I failed to think about the drain line is made for a 1 1/8th hose. Sooo I have to figure out how to get a 3/4" fitting that is made for a 1 3/8" hole. I have seen thru hulls made to fit a 1 1/8th hole, do any of you think that will be to much play if tightened good and seated in 5200? I have that line and the bilge pump, and I'm done with the plumbing, Next wiring!

 

[Bugpac]

Your doing a kickin job on that thing, wanna come redo mine? :mrgreen:

 

[Rat]

So you already have your through hull fitting hole cut and now you need to make it smaller? I would put a patch plate on, riveted in place from the inside, and then re-drill my hole for the right size fitting. Either that or re-run my hose for the bigger size. It looks like you have three different pipes coming together as part of the drain system right? You could make the pipe between the last tee and the hull 1 1/8" by adding the right sized cpcv adapter there easier than cutting and patching the hull; you really need that bigger pipe to handle the overflow water if something ever happens. I would run a bigger pipe.

That is one good looking plumbing job tho! :mrgreen:

You can use Mineral Spirits to work with and clean up 5200 while it is is still uncured. I use Mineral Spirits and a small kitchen sponge to clean off the overages around my fittings and stuff, it works great. You can also use an ice cube to to form it around things, like a caulk spatula for caulk. Use a paper towel to hold onto the ice cube and use the other end to spread/shape the 5200. It sounds stupid, but it works better than a finger for long straight lines.

 

[dearl]

Painted the top side today, Going to let it dry overnight, and try to get the top camoed tomorrow. I want to get the vents, lights, and the battery installed so I can start wiring. I ditched the plan of using aluminum plate for the decks. With so much hardware under the decks, somethings going to go wrong one day, the wooden decks would be alot easier to remove if I need to get under there, plus my wife likes the carpet under the feet feeling. Wired the motor up to the battery, the tilt/trim works great, motor turns over fine, I pulled the head and at some point this motor has broken a piston ring on the #2 cylinder because it has scars in the head. But truth be known I wanted to re-ring the motor anyway because it had low compression. I found some other issues but I will post them in the outboard forum and see if anyone can help me there. I will get some pictures up for you guys tomorrow after the tops camoed.

 

[Doug]

=D> Man, that thing is looking awesome. Keep up the great work.

 

[2007NNBS]

Looks like im missing something. How are you filling and emptying your livewells. Is it thru the hull on the bottom of the boat?.Can i get a shot of all the pluming in one pic?

 

[Rat]

Looks like he is using a transom mounted through hull pickup and voluntary overflow in conjunction with a recirc pump.

Transom pick up

Recirc pump, overflows and bottom drain can be seen here.

Very Nice.

 

[2007NNBS]

i guess its just me i cant see how he is doing it

 

[dearl]

2007nnbs, I have an thru hull pump in the transom, running to the front, and a 3/4" line from the livewell back out the transom. 2 - 3/4" overflows, and a 3/4" drain in the bottom. Its a pretty simple set up, just looks complicated with lines going here and there. If you look at the pics Rat put up, there's 1 line that feeds the whole set up, and 1 line with 3 drains on it. I also have a recirculation pump install while under way.

 

[2007NNBS]

so you are using one pump to fill the livewells and then pull a plug and drain them to the back?

 

[Nick Jones]

Got home alittle earlier than I thought, so I camoed this baby up! I have to say it turned out better than I expected. The stencils I bought made it simple. I tried several diffrent colors till I found the one I wanted. I will try to get it back on the trailer saturday so I can start putting the thru hull fittings in and maybe all the pumps and get started on some wiring.

Console
View attachment 4

Transom


Side shot
View attachment 2

From the front
View attachment 1

Quick question? did you paint over the steelflex? I steelflexed mine around a month ago. I want to stencil mine but i didn't know if paint would stick to the steelflex. if you dont mind please let me know how you prepped it and how it is holding up.

 

[dearl]

Yep, you got it 2007nnbs! Started working on my motor some this week, got it broke down into several workable section so I can get it painted. So far I have the transom bracket ready for primer and paint, then I will put the exhaust tube on, then the lower unit, after I rebuild the water pump of course. I want to take the power head to work with me this weekend so I can get some help to remove 7 bolts that I broke off in the side cover on the powerhead. amazing what salt water will do to a bolt. All of the lighting has been wired, all the switches connected, and everything works like it should. The small LED lights that I bought off the clearance isle at wally world look great when they are on, so far I like um alot! :mrgreen:
Nick I did paint over my steel flex, I ruffed it up good with a 120 grit pad and gave it a good coat of rustoleum professional primer, waited a few days and then I shot it with the olive drab. So far I haven't had any issues, of course I haven't had it off the trailer since either, but it seemed good and solid before I camoed it. I don't think I could have done it if it had been the steelflex with teflon, wouldn't stick from what I have heard.

LED lights


Front shot


Front bulkhead


Rear bulkhead


Motor bracket ready for primer


Motor broken down


Power head for the beast

 

[dyeguy1212]

I still can't get over how great that camo turned out. Once you're done doing everyone's boat within a 25 mile radius, you should lemme borrow em! :wink:

 

[dearl]

Got the motor parts primed today, I have to order my water pump, get that installed, and then I can start putting it back together. Power head will be taken apart this weekend, cylinders checked, then I will start ordering my rings, if it doesn't need to be bored of course. My machine shop buddy looked at it, and he thinks it should be fine with a good honing, but I will wait for the inside caliper results. :wink: I haven't took any short cuts yet, not about to start now.
I forgot to put up a shot of my rod holder doohickies yesterday, turned out good after all.

motor bracket primed


Lower motor cover


lower unit


exhaust tube


rod holder doohickie

 

[xiong-tech]

this things coming together really well. livewell setup is pretty sweet. and camo looks awesome.

 

[dearl]

Got alot of things done in the past few days, the motor housing is painted, the new water pump is in, I have the motor apart, and found the culprit to the previous owners overheating problem. The water pump impellor was spun, causing lack of cooling, and after I got the flywheel off and inspected the upper crank bearing, it got reaaaaal hot. It actually melted the boss that the timing advance sets on! The bearings looked like new with no signs of damage, so I changed both crank seals, with new o-rings. I have all the pistons out, and the rods are good but the pistons have alot of play in the wrist pin area, so I guess the ole girl will get new set of pistons, rings, wrist pins and bearings, rod bearings, and gaskets. Amazing thing was I thought that it had a busted ring in the #2 cylinder, not so, it has been into before though because it has .020 pistons in it. The inside bore is still good, 3.2070 so I can hone the block and put .020 rings back in it.

Lower crank seal


lower seal carrier with new seal installed


Upper crank seal


motor housing


motor housing


front shot


pistons

 

[Nussy]

Man, i wish I understood motors enough to know what the hell you are talking about.
I still can't get over how good your paintjob looks. Where did you get the camo stencil from?

 

[dearl]

Nussy, I got the stencils online at reelfoot. com. They have several diffrent types, but this was the large style, paid 52.00 for them, well worth every penny. I have the water pump installed, lower unit back in place, all the wiring is done, fuel sending unit working, control cables and steering finished, running out of stuff to do until my pistons rings and bearings show up. i can see the end of this project, and it feels pretty good. :mrgreen:
Problem is what to do when this boat is done........GET ANOTHER BOAT! My wife would flip.

Lower unit installed


lower unit, and lower motor housing


Key switch installed


Control cables and switch wires


Control wires going through the floor


Motor covers installed

 

[dyeguy1212]

Wow that wiring looks clean... Much unlike mine. Whats the negative bus bar for exactly? Do all the neg wires from each component go into it, then connect from the battery, or is it something different?


Oh and let me know when you're getting a new boat, I'll start saving for this one now

 

[dearl]

You got it dyeguy. All of the negs run to the bus bar, and I have 1 - 10 gauge wire running to the neg on the battery. Keeps from complicating things with all the wires. I plan to have another battery under the front seat section I have yet to buy yet, but it will be for nothing but the outboard. I still have to run 2 more wires for the outboard power, then this part is done too. Next decking! I am shooting for a splash down date of March 1st, just in time for crappie weather.
I have a birthday coming up in February, A new depth finder and a dual onboard battery charger on on my list, my wife and kids don't know it yet but the hints are fixin to fly!