'83 Bass Tracker Revival

[Gators5220]

A lot of guys use big hose clamps to attach them to the trolling motors.

 

[BYOB Fishing]

A lot of guys use big hose clamps to attach them to the trolling motors.

Not gonna work in this case. The fin on the trolling motor is in the way. See pics above.

 

[Gators5220]

O ya good call hmm, well honestely not that much difference from the trolling motor and the front of your boat if you can figure a way to mount it.

 

[BYOB Fishing]

O ya good call hmm, well honestely not that much difference from the trolling motor and the front of your boat if you can figure a way to mount it.

I was thinking of using the transom mount that came with it and building it up off the motor past the fin somehow. I'll have to think on it a bit more I guess, I don't really want it to look rigged up in a bad way. Worst comes to worse, I can sell the structure scan unit and just put the regular transducer on...

 

[BYOB Fishing]

Well it's been a few weeks since an update has taken place, so here are a few of the things I've been able to do in that time. I've purchased some new trailer wheels and tires. I went with rims and radial tires from https://www.trailer-wheels.com which seem to be working out just fine, and they look good too. I purchased some decals for the side of the boat to dress it up a bit. I also pin striped the trailer and added a non-skid pad on top of the fender. I used a carpet decal on the vinyl seats to cover up the Crestliner logo..this is a Bass Tracker anyway hahaha, even though I don't have any Bass Tracker logos on it right now. I've also been able to put in the floor and carpet the rear deck, side panels and floor. The layout of the tackle storage and rod lockers has me doing some thinking, but I believe I'm ready to get a start on that this week, as I don't have to be back at work until the 7th. I'm going to put in the tackle storage on the right side, rod locker in the middle, and an electrical/storage compartment on the left. Then, I'm going to extend the deck back to cover it all, and mount the console on top of the deck. I have an idea for a locking bar that will go across the hatch lids to secure all of the rods and tackle, so I will install some of the needed hardware into the deck before installing it. Almost ready!!

Let me know what you think! It's been a long process and I'd sure like to hear some good comments. All I've been hearing is how much it's costing us! hahahahaha








Thanks again!!

Matt

 

[russ010]

Matt - you have done an amazing job on this build. It might have taken you a while to get here, but wow was it worth it!

The paint job and stickers turned out awesome - that looks like a brand new boat.


I don't know what you ended up doing for your structure scan mount - but with the new Gen 2 transducers, about the only way you're going to get that mounted safely on your trolling motor is to upgrade to new Fortrex 101... I'll double check the distance between the fin and the prop tonight when I get home.

I've had structure can on the transom for a little over a year now, and I haven't had any problems. I thought about putting it up front, but I can read the 2d sonar and then just run over it with the SS on the transom if I can't figure it out.

You'll be the only person I know who has 2 structure scans set up like this. I've seen guys put the SS ducers on the front TM, but I've never seen people run one on the front and the back!

 

[BYOB Fishing]

Thanks Russ

I'm still looking for a fix to the stucturescan issue..I might just go with the standard transducer on the trolling motor. One other reason, besides the fact the big sidescan transducer won't fit, is that I'm only running two batteries, and dual sidescan units will probably drain the trolling/sonar battery much quicker. I'll probably be better off selling the second sidescan unit and raising some $$ for the needed motor repairs.

Thanks again,

Matt

 

[russ010]

I'm running a HDS 8, HDS 5x, Structure Scan, livewell pumps and satellite radio off one Cabelas AGM 24 battery. No problems with that battery. I had a Duralast Marine 24 group battery, and after about 8 hours, it was getting weak. Stepped up to AGM and no worries whatsoever.

For the front TM, get the Puck style transducer. Then you'll have a spare for the transom when it goes bad (for some reason, I have to replace mine about every 2 years.

Keep an eye out on Bass Boat Central BEFORE you upgrade your units to the new software updates too -- let them figure the problems out and then decide if you want to do the updates. Never hesitate to contact me either, I pretty much try to stay as much up to date on that stuff as possible.

One thing you can do, and it's just a thought... if you really want to run structure scan up front, build a removable transducer bracket for the front of your boat to use. You can set it up with a bolt and a wing nut. Just put it down when you want to fish, and take it out and store it when you don't use it. If you have the structure scan module up near the front, it shouldn't be too hard to take on and off. It will be a PITA, but you can make it work.

Honestly, if it were me and I've been using these units for a while, you have to turn the trolling motor pretty slow to see what's around you. To me, it really didn't help at all and that's why I moved mine back to the transom... not to mention about the $300 you'd have to shell out to replace that transducer should something happen to it. I bumped a stump with mine, and the guys from Lowrance called me back and told me that it busted the crystals in the transducer. Not a scratch on the outside, but the inside was toast.

 

[JonBoatfever]

The carpet and decals turned out great!

 

[Kochy]

Is that pole for pulling a tube?

 

[russ010]

Is that pole for pulling a tube?

that's a shallow water anchor... It's strong enough to hold a boat in high winds, but I don't know about pulling somebody!

 

[BYOB Fishing]

No, I don't think it could pull a tube :LOL2: and since it cost $1100, I'm not gonna try to either :LOL2: :LOL2:

The power pole was originally designed for redfishing I think. It was so successful there, that almost all Bassmaster Elite series and FLW pros have some sort of shallow water anchor on their boat, either the power pole or the MinnKota version, the Talon. I've fished out of boats with Talons mounted on them, and it was a good experience. I've spoken with folks that have power poles, and they said it will change the way you fish, and you won't be able to fish without one..

Here is a video to get a better idea of how it works:

https://youtu.be/6HbD4lj1tjE

Matt

 

[BYOB Fishing]

Here is a little better shot of the Power Pole.

I've made a slight bit of progress with the deck project. I'm extending the front deck back 30". I'll post some pictures later.

I just love this view of the boat. I think it looks awesome from this side, even with all of the hardware store bags and junk stacked around it!



Thanks,

Matt

 

[BYOB Fishing]

As promised, here are the pictures showing the progress over the last two days. Between yesterday and today, I think I have about 10hrs into the rod locker, compartments and electronics mouting/testing. I had to cut some aluminum for the rod locker...This will more than likely be one of only a handful of 1983 Bass Trackers with locker space for a 7-1/2' rod :LOL2: . I mounted the new fuse panel and the old negative terminal and tested all of the electrical systems. Everything seemed to perform properly, even at the same time. I mounted the Structure Scan unit as well. I figured it was easier to mount these items now while I have access to this area. Once I place the deck on top, the only access will be via the hatch lid, and that will be much more akward to try and get to with the rivet gun.

I've placed descriptions on each picture to try and better explain what you're looking at.

 

[JMichael]

Boat is looking great. Not to knock your carpenter skills here but in your last picture you might want to do something a little differently. The 2 horizontal pieces of wood that run fore and aft. If they were 1.5" longer and the 2 vertical pieces at each end were ¾" shorter, they would support much more weight without having to worry that the joints won't hold.

 

[jasper60103]

Boat is looking great. Not to knock your carpenter skills here but in your last picture you might want to do something a little differently. The 2 horizontal pieces of wood that run fore and aft. If they were 1.5" longer and the 2 vertical pieces at each end were ¾" shorter, they would support much more weight without having to worry that the joints won't hold.

Yea, I noticed that too. Maybe he can just sister the 4 vertical pieces to add more support.

 

[JMichael]

Yea, I noticed that too. Maybe he can just sister the 4 vertical pieces to add more support.

Yea, that would probably be the easiest and fastest way to address the joint strength but it would also add more weight. Another option I was thinking about would involve a little more work but it would give the horizontal pieces more strength/less flex for floor support. Excuse the rough drawing but I don't have cad software so I have to resort to my crayons (aka windows paint).

 

[BYOB Fishing]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I think you're totally correct, and if I had to do it over I would use that method. Unfortunatly everything is drying from the spar varnish application, and I only have shorter pieces of wood. I think what I can do is cut some more vertical supports and butt them up against the existing ones, doing effectivly the same thing, but without the need to tear what I've done apart. I had planned to do the same thing in the middle to provide some support there as well.

Thanks again,

Matt

 

[russ010]

what will work just fine by butting them up against the other vertical pieces...

 

[hookedontronics]

boat looks awesome, keep it up!