mmf, do you use a circular electric sander? I have the square one and it is hard to get everything even. Lowes only had 150 or lower grit.. My paint stripper didn't work as well as I thought when I put it on, so I am doing a lot of scraping. I will attach pics as I go and maybe you could help with input?
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mmf
Well-known member
you have to go to the auto parts store to get the wet or dry sanding paper. I sand mine by hand, no machine. Get a 5 gallon bucket of water and dip your paper in it every now and then. Like I said it's alot of work but you must do it.
PS........DO NOT USE A SCRAPER, IT WILL GOUGE THE ALUMINUM! IF YOU HAVE TO USE SOMETHING ELSE, GET A STEEL OR BRASS BRUSH!
PS........DO NOT USE A SCRAPER, IT WILL GOUGE THE ALUMINUM! IF YOU HAVE TO USE SOMETHING ELSE, GET A STEEL OR BRASS BRUSH!
mmf
Well-known member
enielsen said:
SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO RE-APPLY THE STRIPPER TO AN AREA AGAIN, I HAVE HAD TO RE-APPLY SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE IT TAKES IT ALL OFF. ONLY DO A SMALL AREA AT A TIME, OTHERWISE IT WILL DRY TO MUCH BEFORE YOU CAN GET TO IT AND VERY HARD TO GET OFF THEN! SCRUB WITH THE STEEL OR BRASS BRUSH BEFOR YOU RINSE IT OFF. ALSO, IF YOU LEAVE ANY WATER ON AN AREA BEFORE YOU PUT STRIPPER ON IT, IT WILL WEAKEN THE STRENGTH OF THE STRIPPER! IT MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY WHEN YOU APPLY STRIPPER.
Ok so I stopped stripping and powerwashed. When I powerwashed it took a lot of paint and primer off. But still wouldn't get the hull. Can I just sand it until smooth and just prime over it and paint. I just can't imagine getting this done in less than 30 hrs and if I can sand and prime over what u see in the pictures will it work to just paint it? I got a quote to have it sandblasted for 150...too much money
mmf
Well-known member
sandblasting would ruin it, you would have to soda blast it instead.
MrSimon
Well-known member
Sand till smooth.
Clean thoroughly.
Wipe down with mineral spirits.
Dry thoroughly. Tack cloth it off.
Apply two or three thin coats of primer.
Apply two or three thing coats of whatever color you want.
If you have access to an air compressor, get a cheap paint gun and use that. You will be thrilled with the result. If not, just use cans. Go slow. Be careful. Have fun!!
Clean thoroughly.
Wipe down with mineral spirits.
Dry thoroughly. Tack cloth it off.
Apply two or three thin coats of primer.
Apply two or three thing coats of whatever color you want.
If you have access to an air compressor, get a cheap paint gun and use that. You will be thrilled with the result. If not, just use cans. Go slow. Be careful. Have fun!!
reedjj
Well-known member
I usually just clean up the existing painted surface, scuff it good with some light sand paper, or a green 3M scratch pad. clean it again with some degreaser and paint right over that. No primer or anything. I have never had any trouble.
I think the only time you really need to prime it is if you take it down to bare metal..... Some will disagree though.
I think the only time you really need to prime it is if you take it down to bare metal..... Some will disagree though.
mmf
Well-known member
agreedreedjj said:
Ok, so I sanded with 150, 600, 1000, 1200. Got it as smooth as I could and primed. I put on 3 coats with foam roller. It looks a lot better...no brush strokes. I am going to paint the hull smoke grey tomorrow night once this primer sets. Then I can finally start on the build!
Hanr3
Well-known member
No idea about painting the boat.
I wouldnt use cedar, not a hardwood. Id go with exterior grade plywood, it has glue resistant to teh elements.
Check my signature. I built a 14' Alumicraft. You can steal all the ideas you want. Click on the green text and it should take you to my build.
I wouldnt use cedar, not a hardwood. Id go with exterior grade plywood, it has glue resistant to teh elements.
Check my signature. I built a 14' Alumicraft. You can steal all the ideas you want. Click on the green text and it should take you to my build.
Hanr3
Well-known member
Great your staining and waterproofing all the wood. However cedar is not a hard wood, in that it will crush under weight (read your boat motor will fall off in rough seas), it won't hold screws under load, etc. It will last forever in the elements without treatment and makes great fences, shingles and siding. In other words non-structural applications.
For your transom, go with Teak or White Oak. Check your local lumber yard for pricing, neither are cheap, however White Oak should be a native species and might be less expensive. White Oak will last forever in the elemets without treatment, plus it is a very hard wood. It will support your motor and strengthen your transom without any troubles. Dont get RED Oak, it doesnt have the same weather resistance as White Oak. White Oak has been used for ship building for centuries.
For your transom, go with Teak or White Oak. Check your local lumber yard for pricing, neither are cheap, however White Oak should be a native species and might be less expensive. White Oak will last forever in the elemets without treatment, plus it is a very hard wood. It will support your motor and strengthen your transom without any troubles. Dont get RED Oak, it doesnt have the same weather resistance as White Oak. White Oak has been used for ship building for centuries.
enielsen said:
I already had a can that I got at one of the big box stores. Tested it out on a block of wood and it looked super, just what I was looking for in color, however, I still don't know if it will work for me below the water line... I sent you a PM earlier about some of the hazards of spraying the "specks". It floats everywhere and for a long time!
